Day 1 - Machame Gate to Machame Hut
Woke fairly early and got an early breakfast before one last hike into town. We went to what we thought was a gear store, where we could find protein bars etc, but it was only a hire/tour stop.
We then got back to the hotel to be picked up and we met our tour buddies. Two Canadian friends and a Step father and his son. Dropped excess gear off in storage at Pristine and then made our way to Machame Gate.
We had to wait at the gate for at least 2 hours while our guides sorted out permits and entry fees. They also weigh all the porters packs to ensure that no one is over burdened before they're allowed to enter the park.
We started the hike and were immediately in rain-forest that looked exactly like Springbrook. Large moss covered trees and red soil. We also had rain for about half of the distance so the track got a little muddy.
Pace was, at times, frustratingly slow. The guides said many times "Pole Pole" (pole-ey) which means slowly slowly. No point getting worn out, we had a full 6 days to reach the summit. One in our group was also feeling the effect of the steeper path so a few extra stops on the way.
Just before camp we reached the Moorland zone, trees thinned out but no view as the clouds were still all around us. Porters had already setup camp, including a mess tent for us to eat in. Wonderful dinner with a short view of the brilliant stars then turned in early for bed.
Day 2 - Machame Hut to Shira Caves
The day started with an abrupt awakening at 540 am followed quickly by some lacklustre oatmeal for breakfast. Eggs on toast were good though, as was the very welcomed and unexpected hot Milo.
We broke camp before most of the other groups. There must have been over a hundred tents standing while our porters were already packing ours down. Beautiful views already above the cloud line.
Once again we were setting a blistering pace. 0.7km per hour. Not a typo. One of our group still feeling the affect (of not being remotely in shape) meant the whole group was stuck at a slow pace. I get it, I understand it, I even sort of agree wih it, but fuck me it's not fun. Especially seeing all the other groups seemingly breeze past us.
Some amazing views of the peak on the way up and only sparse trees now to block the view. Was quite warm in the sun which was also a nice change from the frosty morning.
More of the same after a snack break strolling into camp about 1pm. Really great lunch, they sure feed us well. After lunch was nap time though I chose to abstain. After nap time we went to check out the Shira Cave which was a pretty cool lava tube though mostly filled wih sediments.
Dinner and a few East African songs before turning in for what is meant to be a cold night.
Day 3 - Shira Caves to Barranco Camp
Spent the night mostly too warm and didn't have a very good sleep at all. Still packed early an got moving. Longer day distance wise today but not as much elevation gain. That said I still broke my on foot height record of Mt Whitney and reached just over 4600 meters of elevation.
We stopped for lunch at a place called Devils Tower which was a rather large lava plug. After a decent climb looking back over the amazing cloud bank (and our helpful helpers) we begun to descend again.
Camp today was in a sheltered valley in front of Barranco wall. Something to look forward to in the morning. I was pretty wrecked (combination of the high altitude and lack of sleep) so I took the chance to nap and felt a lot better. Everyone in the team (of 6) had at least a slight headache, some completly wiped out and 2 nauseated.
Great view of the valley below as the clouds parted late afternoon. Quick dinner then an early night.
Day 4 - Barranco Camp to Karanga Valley
Another very early stary, breaking camp at 6am, to scale Barranco Wall. It took just over 1.5 hours to complete the light scramble. We left early to not have to deal with porters needing to pass with their loads. Though they still managed to catch us near the top.
The peak was partially obstructed most of the day but the views to the clouds behind us were always amazing. Despite my reservations about pace apparently our group is handling the altitude really well. Making the planned camp by 1030am it was agreed we would push onto the higher altitude base camp, only 4km further but 600+ m in elevation gain.
Day 4.5 - Karanga Valley to Barafu Camp
A quick fruit salad for smoko then pushing ever onwards. It was a decent climb from camp to the first ridge before we rollercoasted a short while and then hit the final ascent.
Passing us were our porters with not only gear and food but buckets of water. 25lt buckets. On their head. They did do a bit of juggling with some going ahead dropping gear and coming back to help with the water. These guys are super human.
At camp just after 2 and had a late lunch just as the clouds came in and it started snowing. A little wind too and somewhat exposed so it's going to be a cold night.
Started to snow again late afternoon which made for a good visual but felt a little cold. With my warmest shoes being trail runners the toes were feeling it a little. It's fine on the move but stopped for a few hours....
Dinner we discussed plans for the next day which involved a stupidly early start with a 230am wake up to make the summit. One member of our team planned to start an hour earlier to get a bit of a head start.
I also got hit with my first affect of altitude, nausea. Thanks to some beef mince mix. I was given a plate of pineapple and oranges though which I happily wolfed down. A few on our team have already been affected by lack of a appetite so the guides were happy to see me eat. I've also been munching on skittles every day...
Day 5 - Barafu Camp to Uhuru Peak to Mellennium Hut
The day started as well as any 230am start could... Cold, tired, layered up like the marshmallow man. Head lamps on to begin the slow 7ish hour ascent.
Steep, dusty, cold, beautiful, brutal. That's how I would describe the ascent. Every step was hard work and it only got harder as the air thinned and fatigue set in. We passed Jerry after and few hours and left him to continue at his pace and the rest of us pushed on. Enjoying the beautiful sunrise on the way.
6 or so hours later we reached Stella point. A junction for different routes before the final stint to the top. The guides offered us hot tea, something I would normally never drink, but I was cold and it was hot. Didn't enjoy the taste and about 2min later I experienced that bad taste again... Everyone felt like rubbish at that point but with the peak only 0.7km away we couldn't stop.
Made it!
My time at the top was short lived I was feeling a bit out of it due to the altitude, only time for a few snaps then I started heading back down to lose some elevation. At times overtaking the porter sent to guide me down. Apparently I'm a pretty fast hiker when I'm allowed to be and not constantly being told "Pole pole" who knew?
Back to camp for a nap, the others getting back not too far behind me. We heard the news that Jerry ultimately turned back about 2 hours from the summit. Better safe than sorry. He was feeling ok mentally but wiped out physically and opted to get taken on a stretcher down to the next camp.
We left straight after lunch and Suley, the youngest of the guides, finally caved and gave me permission to go my own pace. Thank fuck. Loved the look on the faces on the other groups and guides as I whizzed past. Even managed to overtake a porter, though other porters still breezed past me.
On the way down I saw the drop point for trolleys. In the cloud it looked a little eerie. Got to camp a little too quickly apparently, nothing setup yet so I helped with the tents while waiting for the rest of the team/gear. Job (head guide) gave Suley a side glance when he got to camp later... woops! I slipped him an extra tip to make up for it. Mulled around until dinner and was in bed and fast asleep shortly after.
Day 6 - Mellennium Hut to Mweka Gate
Still feeling a bit under Jerry decided to take the 'Tanzania Taxi' out of the park (one of those trolleys in the fog.) We got going at a decent pace taking care on the frost covered rocks. Quickly descended back into Moorland vegetation covered in cloud bank and moss covered trees.
Back into the Rainforest where everything was damp. No rain to speak of but with the moisture in the air it may as well have. They allowed Lyndon and I to 'try and keep pace' with the porters and the 'taxi.' These guys were literally jogging down the mountain, with the trolley, though we were happily following in tow.
Down in record time we had one last lunch, signed out of the park, had some singing and said our goodbyes to the porters and crew. We also distributed Tips for the the porters etc. These tips add up, so be prepared before heading to the mountain. On with the Guides back to Moshi.
Over. Done. Mission complete. To steal a line from our lead guide Job: "This was not a piece of cake, it is a piece of rock" I can honestly say I underestimated the challenge of high altitude hiking. Every step is a piece of information, every hike a lesson. I learned a lot this trip. I eagerly await the next.
Congratulations Scott. Another great achievement.
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