Travel - 2017 06 - Dubai

As we conquered Kilimanjaro a day early we had an extra day to spend in Moshi town. Honestly not a whole lot to do, but that was ok as after the mountain a relaxing day was welcomed. 

The group that I climbed with was all staying at the same hotel so it was also a good chance to say goodbye. Walking the streets to check out some street markets but mostly just head out to lunch and dinner with "Team nDoto".



Dell and I had an earlier flight so we said our goodbyes before bed. Our transport arrived and we got some breakfast boxes to go. The coffee we ordered on the tour our first day hadn't made it to us yet so we had to swing by the home of the owner of Pristine to pick it up. 

Ultimately with all that happened we were getting to the airport a lottle late. Tiny 'international' airport so it wasn't too bad. We arrived about 5 min after the flight closed but as there was only 10 pax hopping on here they reopened for us. 

It's a milk run flight so we boarded a 1/2 full plane. There was one young American lady near me who was busy reapplying her makeup. She already had more than most people headed out for a night on the town. 3 different colour things on her cheek, fresh lippy, plus a pencil thing, eye lash stuff and even got the tweezers out for her eyebrows. Kenya Airways is worth dressing up for I guess.... 

After another short stop in Zanzibar (Didn't get off the plane, but still counts right?) we headed off to Narobi. 2 hour stopover then another 6 or so hours to Dubai. Just before boarding a staff member pulled me aside to inform me that my bag never left Kilimanjaro airport. 

Baggage guys weren't too bad and promised me I'd have my bag on the next flight, of which there is only 1 a day... Shuttle bus off to easily the fanciest hotel I have ever stayed in. Driving into Dubai it felt like what I imagine it might feel like for someone living in a small country town all their life driving into the CBD for the first time. So many tall, fancy, brightly lit buildings. It makes Vegas look like Toowoomba.



Bed and hot shower are nice I guess... I still just as happy in a tent though... Another plus is that the Concierge desk was going to follow up about my bags for me. Saves me making loads of phone calls.
The next day Lyndon got to tick off one of the items on his bucket list, driving a Lamborghini. Pretty fast I guess... 



Cruised over to the Oman sea for a bit of a splash. Water temp was easily low 30's, felt like dirty bath water. With 38°c air temp we were hoping for something a little more refreshing.... Fueled up before the trip home. Lambo is thirsty but at ~50c/lt it's not as much of a concern.

Back through the streets of Dubai we found the cause of a lot of the cities smog problem. Traffic. Probably not the ideal place for the car of choice. With Dell navigating the streets safely (despite other ideas from fellow motorists) we made if back to the hotel late arvo. 

Bad news about my bag, conflicting information. That's never a good sign. Kenya Airlines said they put it on the flight, Etihad said it was never recieved. Online tracking has it doing an airport transfer on a bus. 3 different stories. At least I'm not making the phone calls yet, but if it drags on longer I'll be back in Aus and chasing it myself...

Off to a fancy mall for dinner. Indoor Snow Ski park looked fancy (but not worth paying for) and if you liked fashion the mall might be a good place. I don't.  Was bored out of my mind. Even the one 'outdoor' store had some sports things (like bats) but mostly just apparel. Thought about getting a 'small' plush toy for the Nieces and Nephews though...



Next day was and lazy one by the pool. Had to hang about for the Lambo guy (who was 3.5 hours late...) to pick up the car. Relaxed poolside with a beer though, so no loss. Streamed State of Origin and managed to watch QLD squeeze out a victory. Bag still lost in the netherworld of the airlines baggage carousels.  

Out to the tallest building in the world, The Burj Khalifa. Seems fitting after the recent hike. Lights of the city were pretty impressive, even if filtered through smog.



Another big mall. The biggest in fact (by area.) Again boring for my tastes. Back to the Sofitel. No news on the bag but early to bead for tomorrow's activities.

One thing I hate about travelling, early mornings. Up at 415am to head off to skydiving. I don't do well with mornings but it was bloody amazing jumping out of a plane. Cost/time of enjoyment isn't quite what I would call resonable but just shy of a minute free fall was exhilarating. Loved every second. Good views too. Apparently I appeared 'very comfortable' with the height, no surprises there.



Back to the hotel to checkout and off to sit in the aircon of a Mall before our night time flight. Caught a movie to kill time on our last day before catching a taxi out to the airport. On the mall wifi got an update about my bag, it should have arrived from Narobi 1.5 hours before I fly out. Though didn't make my flight. See you soon Brisbane!

Hiking - 2017 06 - Kilimanjaro

You can see the combined hike GPS track on Strava

Day 1 - Machame Gate to Machame Hut

Woke fairly early and got an early breakfast before one last hike into town. We went to what we thought was a gear store, where we could find protein bars etc, but it was only a hire/tour stop.

We then got back to the hotel to be picked up and we met our tour buddies. Two Canadian friends and a Step father and his son. Dropped excess gear off in storage at Pristine and then made our way to Machame Gate.

We had to wait at the gate for at least 2 hours while our guides sorted out permits and entry fees. They also weigh all the porters packs to ensure that no one is over burdened before they're allowed to enter the park.

We started the hike and were immediately in rain-forest that looked exactly like Springbrook. Large moss covered trees and red soil. We also had rain for about half of the distance so the track got a little muddy.

Pace was, at times, frustratingly slow. The guides said many times "Pole Pole" (pole-ey) which means slowly slowly. No point getting worn out, we had a full 6 days to reach the summit. One in our group was also feeling the effect of the steeper path so a few extra stops on the way.

Just before camp we reached the Moorland zone, trees thinned out but no view as the clouds were still all around us. Porters had already setup camp, including a mess tent for us to eat in. Wonderful dinner with a short view of the brilliant stars then turned in early for bed.

Day 2 - Machame Hut to Shira Caves

The day started with an abrupt awakening at 540 am followed quickly by some lacklustre oatmeal for breakfast. Eggs on toast were good though, as was the very welcomed and unexpected hot Milo.

We broke camp before most of the other groups. There must have been over a hundred tents standing while our porters were already packing ours down. Beautiful views already above the cloud line.

Once again we were setting a blistering pace. 0.7km per hour. Not a typo. One of our group still feeling the affect (of not being remotely in shape) meant the whole group was stuck at a slow pace. I get it, I understand it, I even sort of agree wih it, but fuck me it's not fun. Especially seeing all the other groups seemingly breeze past us.

Some amazing views of the peak on the way up and only sparse trees now to block the view. Was quite warm in the sun which was also a nice change from the frosty morning.

More of the same after a snack break strolling into camp about 1pm. Really great lunch,  they sure feed us well. After lunch was nap time though I chose to abstain. After nap time we went to check out the Shira Cave which was a pretty cool lava tube though mostly filled wih sediments.

Dinner and a few East African songs before turning in for what is meant to be a cold night.

Day 3 - Shira Caves to Barranco Camp

Spent the night mostly too warm and didn't have a very good sleep at all. Still packed early an got moving. Longer day distance wise today but not as much elevation gain. That said I still broke my on foot height record of Mt Whitney and reached just over 4600 meters of elevation.

We stopped for lunch at a place called Devils Tower which was a rather large lava plug. After a decent climb looking back over the amazing cloud bank (and our helpful helpers) we begun to descend again.

Camp today was in a sheltered valley in front of Barranco wall. Something to look forward to in the morning. I was pretty wrecked (combination of the high altitude and lack of sleep) so I took the chance to nap and felt a lot better. Everyone in the team (of 6) had at least a slight headache, some completly wiped out and 2 nauseated.

Great view of the valley below as the clouds parted late afternoon. Quick dinner then an early night.

Day 4 - Barranco Camp to Karanga Valley

Another very early stary, breaking camp at 6am, to scale Barranco Wall. It took just over 1.5 hours to complete the light scramble. We left early to not have to deal with porters needing to pass with their loads. Though they still managed to catch us near the top.

The peak was partially obstructed most of the day but the views to the clouds behind us were always amazing. Despite my reservations about pace apparently our group is handling the altitude really well. Making the planned camp by 1030am it was agreed we would push onto the higher altitude base camp, only 4km further but 600+ m in elevation gain.

Day 4.5 - Karanga Valley to Barafu Camp

A quick fruit salad for smoko then pushing ever onwards. It was a decent climb from camp to the first ridge before we rollercoasted a short while and then hit the final ascent.

Passing us were our porters with not only gear and food but buckets of water. 25lt buckets. On their head. They did do a bit of juggling with some going ahead dropping gear and coming back to help with the water. These guys are super human.

At camp just after 2 and had a late lunch just as the clouds came in and it started snowing. A little wind too and somewhat exposed so it's going to be a cold night.

Started to snow again late afternoon which made for a good visual but felt a little cold. With my warmest shoes being trail runners the toes were feeling it a little. It's fine on the move but stopped for a few hours....

Dinner we discussed plans for the next day which involved a stupidly early start with a 230am wake up to make the summit. One member of our team planned to start an hour earlier to get a bit of a head start.

I also got hit with my first affect of altitude, nausea. Thanks to some beef mince mix. I was given a plate of pineapple and oranges though which I happily wolfed down. A few on our team have already been affected by lack of a appetite so the guides were happy to see me eat. I've also been munching on skittles every day...

Day 5 - Barafu Camp to Uhuru Peak to Mellennium Hut

The day started as well as any 230am start could... Cold, tired, layered up like the marshmallow man. Head lamps on to begin the slow 7ish hour ascent.

Steep, dusty, cold, beautiful, brutal. That's how I would describe the ascent. Every step was hard work and it only got harder as the air thinned and fatigue set in. We passed Jerry after and few hours and left him to continue at his pace and the rest of us pushed on. Enjoying the beautiful sunrise on the way.

6 or so hours later we reached Stella point. A junction for different routes before the final stint to the top. The guides offered us hot tea, something I would normally never drink, but I was cold and it was hot. Didn't enjoy the taste and about 2min later I experienced that bad taste again... Everyone felt like rubbish at that point but with the peak only 0.7km away we couldn't stop.

Made it!

My time at the top was short lived I was feeling a bit out of it due to the altitude, only time for a few snaps then I started heading back down to lose some elevation. At times overtaking the porter sent to guide me down. Apparently I'm a pretty fast hiker when I'm allowed to be and not constantly being told "Pole pole" who knew?

Back to camp for a nap, the others getting back not too far behind me. We heard the news that Jerry ultimately turned back about 2 hours from the summit. Better safe than sorry. He was feeling ok mentally but wiped out physically and opted to get taken on a stretcher down to the next camp.

We left straight after lunch and Suley, the youngest of the guides, finally caved and gave me permission to go my own pace. Thank fuck. Loved the look on the faces on the other groups and guides as I whizzed past. Even managed to overtake a porter, though other porters still breezed past me.

On the way down I saw the drop point for trolleys. In the cloud it looked a little eerie. Got to camp a little too quickly apparently, nothing setup yet so I helped with the tents while waiting for the rest of the team/gear. Job (head guide) gave Suley a side glance when he got to camp later... woops! I slipped him an extra tip to make up for it. Mulled around until dinner and was in bed and fast asleep shortly after.

Day 6 - Mellennium Hut to Mweka Gate

Still feeling a bit under Jerry decided to take the 'Tanzania Taxi' out of the park (one of those trolleys in the fog.) We got going at a decent pace taking care on the frost covered rocks. Quickly descended back into Moorland vegetation covered in cloud bank and moss covered trees.

Back into the Rainforest where everything was damp. No rain to speak of but with the moisture in the air it may as well have. They allowed Lyndon and I to 'try and keep pace' with the porters and the 'taxi.' These guys were literally jogging down the mountain, with the trolley, though we were happily following in tow.

Down in record time we had one last lunch, signed out of the park, had some singing and said our goodbyes to the porters and crew. We also distributed Tips for the the porters etc. These tips add up, so be prepared before heading to the mountain. On with the Guides back to Moshi.

Over. Done. Mission complete. To steal a line from our lead guide Job: "This was not a piece of cake, it is a piece of rock" I can honestly say I underestimated the challenge of high altitude hiking. Every step is a piece of information, every hike a lesson. I learned a lot this trip. I eagerly await the next.

Travel - 2017 06 - Kenya/Tanzania

Spent the day tidying up a few last things at home before packing my gear once again for another epic adventure. Needed to be at the airport by 830pm for a 1030 flight so dad got to my place at 530pm... Just to be safe... Had my brother and his partner over for dinner to see the new house. Which worked out well as he and dad could talk all things building. 

Set off to the airport and arrived right as they opened check-in, though the line was already long. Killing time in the line I saw a work mate off on her own adventure.  Cruising around the Mediterranean. Can't help but think that trip is going to be a lot more luxurious and warmer than mine...  

While having a final beer before the flight there was another traveller on a phone call complaining about check in (line too long) so he skipped to the baggage drop and was blaming the staff when they told him to join the actual line... Some people always think their time is more important than others. Karma worked swiftly apparently as his bag was also 3kg overweight. 



Two long flights, 19 hours in the air + stopover time, later (though I got a relativly decent sleep on the first leg) and I arrived in Kenya. Dell got to the hotel about 2 hours after me giving me time to have a shower and relax for a second. 

Dinner out tonight to meet the crew he's been travelling with on his prior tours and give him a chance to say goodbyes. We went to a really good resturant called 'Carnivore' which was a Brazilian BBQ type setup (unlimited meat on a stick) with everything from Crocodile to Ostrich meatballs. No Zebra steak thought... will have to get that later.



Fell asleep instantly as my head hit the pillow back at the room. Felt like a long time since I left Brisbane already. Early start to head out to Hells Gate national park.

Long drive out on some... interesting roads. Hired mountain bikes at the front gate and rode the 8km to the Hells Gate gorge. Hundreds of Warthogs on the way as well as Giraffe, Gazelle, Zebra and Water Buffalo. 

[caption width="1920" align="alignnone"]Photo cred: Lyndon[/caption]

Did a 4 hour hike down into Hells Gate which was a pretty nice slot canyon. There was also a lot of geothermal vents pushing put some pretty hot water and a few shallow caves to explore. 1230 we started heading out of the canyon and it was a fairly hot climb. Not only the sun beating down but the steam and boiling water venting from the rocks.



The 8km back on the bikes seemed harder. While the elevation was pretty flat so were our tires. Old bikes and each of us having a slow leak making it take a bit of extra effort to get moving. Had a nice break when a herd of Springbok lept past in front of us. Long drive back to Narobi. At one point stuck behind a line of trucks and managed to cover 2km in about 30 min...

[caption width="960" align="alignnone"]Photo cred: Lyndon[/caption]

After we finally got back Lyndon took the opertunity to have a swim in the pool but I relaxed until dinner, some swanky Rooftop bar. Was relativly early night but I couldn't get to sleep until just after midnight. 

Down for breakfast at 630 so we could be ready for the transfer pickup at 7. At 715 with no-show we called and were promised 730. At 750 we finally got a shuttle to the bus to get us to Moshi, the base of Kilimanjaro. After a 2 hour ordeal to get through customs (Kenya's exit customs took just over half of that time) we were in Tanzania! 

The peak was totally obscured by clouds most of the trip but for a brief period the sky's opened to let us visualise the task were about to undertake. 



Got our introduction to Pristine travel when they picked us up at the bus stop and a brief run down on Moshi. Hit up the 'super'market for some snacks and off to dinner at a recommended place. Was dark as we walked back but sticking to the well lit street it didn't feel unsafe. Most of the market stalls were still there just packing up.

Able to sleep in a bit and have a nice relaxed breakfast in the morning. We were picked up at 9am to head up the mountain a little for a coffee tour and short hike out to a waterfall. 

The track up was similar to the easier sections of the CREB track in Cairns which seemed pretty fun in the back of a 4wd Van. About 3/4ths of the way up we got a flat so the village sent down two bikes to get us the rest of the way.



Very self sustained mountain village with lots of different food growing amoungst the coffee trees. We went through the manual process of picking, skinning, roasting and grinding our own beans and the coffee wasn't half bad. This particular coffee plant is only grown on Kilimanjaro. 



After our brew we headed off on the short hike to the waterfall, just over 4km return. Lots of bush tucker advice on the way learning the various trees that can have medicinal use and even stopping to pick some cherry guava. Beautiful tall falls with nice pool at the bottom so it was too hard to resist a swim. Surprisingly not as cold as expected.



Back to Moshi town late arvo to chill a little until dinner. Before that we had our mountain guides come over to do a pack shake down. All welcome advice, they know the conditions up there, my only change was warmer gloves. My mittens (that I've snow skied with) apparently aren't warm enough. They also suggested a second thermal top, as mine will be 'dirty' after a few days. They know not the ways of Hiker Trash.

Indian dinner tonight was fantastic, apparently these are 4th generation Indians brought here during British colonisation. On the way the clouds parted once more as if to beckon us towards the summit.  

Tomorrow we start the main event. Only a paltry 9km in distance, easy right? We'll see if I feel the same way after 1200m + of elevation gain starting at an altitude of 1840m...