Monday 21 March 2016

Hiking - (2016) T minus 32 days - PCT




So for the last few months I have slowly been pulling together a plan to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. As the date is getting close and a lot of pieces are falling into place I find I'm getting asked more questions from friends, family and potential hikers as well.

I thought I would throw together a quick post to answer some of the major questions and a bit of a checklist I ran through in the lead up.

You're going to walk how far!? For HOW long!!!!?


The current plan is to walk the entirety of the Pacific Crest Trail, 4,280 km. Four Thousand, Two Hundred and Eighty Kilometers. That's 2,660 miles (measurement and temperature conversions are still something I'm trying to get use too...) All in all this should take me roughly 5 months.

The Trail starts just outside a town called Campo near the Mexican border in California and then heads north, all the way into Canada. Halfmile Maps are the gold standard for PCT maps, he has an overview map you can view over here. For a bit of a reference for family and work mates, I made this google map showing the length of the PCT if I was to road walk it in Australia. It's a bloody long way!

How would you even begin to plan for something like that?


Reading. Lots of reading. Mostly on the internet in forums, facebook pages, blogs and pages dedicated to help specifically with PCT planning. There are a few books for sale that are designed to help with planning, some even intended for those with little previous hiking experience. Controversial at times (lots of opinions rather than facts) but that's basically what you get on the internet too.

For me the main sites that really helped are;

  • The Pacific Crest Trail Association. This should be your first stop. Lots of FAQs, all the links and information for permits. They're responsible for the trail and issue the main permit, while also providing links to other permits needed (Canadian Entry, Californian Fire permit.)

  • Craig's PCT Planner. Great planning tool with a lot of the resupply points. You plug in your expected pace and hours per day you want to hike and it will suggest the best stops for you. You can see my plan here.

  • Plan Your Hike - Resupply Points. Gives more info about resupply towns, addresses etc. Honestly there are a few (As the Crow Flies, PureBound etc) that offer the same/similar information. Reading other hikers personal ones helps too, then you have to make your own. Often on the fly.

  • HalfMile Maps. Those who have hiked with me before know I love having a map to read. I use maps all the time at work and I like the security of having them in hand. HalfMile are easily the best you can get for the PCT... and he has them up for Free! Some people have the PDFs only on the phone, which is fine too. When others might read a book, I'd read a map.

  • PCT Water Report. One of the concerns on the PCT is water... or lack there of. The Water report is good to judge how long some stretches are with no reliable water source.

  • "PCT Class of 2016" facebook page. Lot of other people in the exact same position, sharing their concerns, questions and advice.
  • Halfwayanywhere.com has amazing content to help out hikers. They do a big hiker Survey at the end of each year and post really interesting results. Check out their PCT Resupply Guide and also their PCT Gear Guide

But what will you eat?

Honestly... probably food that isn't all that healthy. It's the same food that I eat on day hikes and 2-3 day overnight hikes here. On a thru-hike it's suggested that the average male needs somewhere between 4500-6000 calories, per day. If it's low-fat, low-carb, low-whatever it's probably not for a hiker. On average I'll carry 4-5 days worth of food, enough to get me to the next resupply town. Longest carry might be as big as 9 days. There are also some sites (Sonora Pass Resupply) set up to service hikers, which I may use sometimes.

Food variety includes Freeze Dried Meals (Back Country here, Mountain House/Backpacker Pantry seems popular over there) Beef Jerky, Chocolate, Lollies, Corn Chips, Muesli/Protein Bars, Dried Fruit, Trail Mix, Deb (instant) Potato (Idahonian over there?), Pasta Meals (usually sold as 'sides' with dehydrated sauce in the packet. Think Mac n Cheese), Pop-Tarts, Rice Meals or anything that can be eaten straight from the packet or 'cooked' with boiling water. Cheese and some salami's are good and can last a few days as well, to change it up a bit. Tuna/Chicken pouches are a little heavier but I throw in a few occasionally (usually to eat the first night/lunch) to add a little extra. Ready made meals (Heinz Big n Chunky) sometimes make the cut, but are rare (because they're heavy.) Condiments like Salt, Sauce, Parmesan Cheese and Olive Oil are in there too. Those 'Baby Food' squeeze packets are good for storing things like sauce.



For the luxuries I also take Milo on my hikes, with powdered milk. Nice warm drink for those cold early mornings. Sweetened condensed Milk gives a nice calorie/sugar boost and makes it  taste better too, also good to suck straight from the tube. Ideally you want to look for food with really good calorie/weight ratio.

For me, it's a little harder to prepare food. Some people box up a whole heap and have it send from home. It's completely impracticable to do that from Australia so I'll be buying on the go. Sometimes buying in a 'Big' town and sending on a food package to a little town up ahead. I think the first few shops are going to take a bit of time as I try to familiarise myself with different brands.

 What about things you don't want to carry the whole way?


I'm going to tackle this 2 ways. Sending stuff to a friend and a 'Bounce Bucket'. As I plan to do some travel in the USA after the hike (and try fit in some Diving too!) I'll have gear that I want in America, but obviously not want to carry. As it's much cheaper than trying to send it from here, I'll carry this stuff on the plane as I head over then mail it on from LA. Some gear that I'll mail the day I land includes dive gear that I definitely wont need until I'm Finished.

The 'Bounce Bucket' is for things I want on trail... but not all the time. So razor (gotta look tidy!) maps for further down the trail, spare Milo (research has lead me to believe that it's hard to find in the US, and it might be different anyway!) spare first aid stuff, some replacement gear, medicine (Brycinal) a Roll of Duct Tape etc etc etc I'll send it ~2 weeks ahead, catch up to it, take out what I need and send the rest on again.


I also have planned for 2 care packages from home. Gives me the chance to include any major gear replacements (Shelter/Backpack/Pad) which I have at home if I want/need and also get some more Milo (5 months worth wont all fit in my Bucket :o)


What about your gear? You're going to carry it all?


Yes, well except that which goes into the bucket above. Gear choice is something that comes up a lot in the discussion threads. Which is better, which is lighter, is this good enough, where can I get it cheaper, do I really need it etc etc. Luckily because of all the Hiking I do in Aus I already had mostly everything sorted. The only thing I bought specifically for the PCT was a good Down Jacket. You can see my full gear list here. If you do want your gear critiqued by others in forums, it's best to put it together in a nice readable list. Sites like milestepper and lighterpack.com help, but a good excel list will serve the same function.


Aren't there Bears... and Rattle Snakes!?


Yes, there is wildlife. Rattle stakes look aggressive in movies, we'll see what they;'re like in real life. A few months ago at work I walked past an Eastern Brown Snake, then a few weeks later walked past 2 Red-Bellied Black snakes on a hike... So I think I'm good with Snakes. Bears though, we'll see how that goes. The last death by bear in the 3 states I'll be walking through was in 1974, 42 years ago. I think I'll be ok. You're more likely to be struck by lightning than attacked by a bear.

Weather, that could be dangerous. Looks like it's going to be a 'average' snow year, but some of the rivers after that all starts melting are going to be high. Taking care while crossing weighs on my mind more than Bears, Snakes and spiders. Cold Snow, Storms, Raging Rivers, Lack of any rivers at all (one stretch is 30+ miles without water!), desert heat. All things worth more planning for. Weather is the only thing I worry about, and it's something that you can't always predict or plan for. Well, that, and being shot by a gun toting American! (I kid I kid, please don't shoot me.)

I think flora (plants) are going to be interesting too. Poison Oak, Poodle Dog Brush and other stinging plants are probably going to be a sore learning experience. I know what to avoid in the Aussie bush, I'll have to learn fresh with new species over there. Some portions of the trail have flourishing berries too (like huckleberries) that people pick and eat. I'll stick to store bought food, until I see first hand other people not die from eating the wrong thing...


Very toxic plant.

What about your Phone Battery?


When hiking I keep mine mostly off. I will use it (hopefully to keep this Blog updated!) and a few other items that need power (GSP Watch, Head Torch, Camera) and I'll be keeping them charged with a Battery Pack. External Battery with USB in and out, use it on the trail and recharge it when I get to a town. Some people take Solar, but for Hiking I don't think it's quite there yet. I actually have a small hiking panel, but I've concluded that it's not great when you're on the move all the time. Perfect for hiking into a camp or for hikes with small days though.

Are you doing it as a team / group / tag-along?


Nope. Just me. There will be hundreds of other people trying to do the same thing, maybe even a few thousand. All starting within a ~6 week window. There will be plenty of people to meet and hike with along the way. For a hike like this, for 5 months, you're going to have times where you want to do something different.No question. Maybe I'll want an extra day camped next to a great creek... or maybe I think this part is boring and want to smash out 40 miles. Maybe I want to do a side trail, taking me off the PCT for a few days. It's not fair to make anyone wait for me. Hiking with people works only as long as you share the exact same goals. Either way there will be a time where you want to do your own thing, even if for a few short days. There will always be a chance to see friends further down the trail.

What training are you doing?


Ummm.... none... realy... I try to run 5-10k a few times a week, though lately weeks have been busy/I've been lazy and I haven't kept it up. I am a little bit active for work and have some fairly active other activities (I still go hiking/bushwalking, Water Skiing, Scuba Diving) but nothing like training with a weighted pack. I know how fast I can hike currently and plan to go slower on the first week or 2 to 'ease' into it. Some train, others do not. In the end I think practice overnight hikes with all your gear and mental readiness are more important than physical training. Just don't over do it at the start.

Why the PCT, why at all?


Why the PCT? I honestly can't answer. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Though hiking is something I have only recently (~4 years ago) got back into, it certainly took up a lot of my weekends as a teenager and quite a few recently. With the sale of the house, long service leave ticking over from work, no current other commitments hanging over my head it seemed like a good time to do something. While looking for that something I found the PCT and haven't looked back.

As for why at all, Why not?

My Quick/Rough PCT Checklist;


  • Gear/Clothes/Shoes: I already had all these things, sans Down Jacket which I now have.

  • Plan: Mostly finalised, thanks to those helpful sites (listed above.)

  • Passport: Had to check it wasn't going to expire (it won't until late 2017)

  • U.S. Visa: Involved a flight to Sydney and a 50 minute wait for a 50 second interview. I got it a little early and got the 5 year B2 Visa.

  • Travel Insurance: One cover. Make sure your policy covers the higher altitudes that can be reached.

  • Flights Brisbane, Aus > LA, U.S.: I knew approximately when I wanted to start and hung out for cheap flights. Ended up with Qantas.

  • 2 care packages from Australia: Left in the care of my Sister. Currently open in case I think of more stuff I'll ask her to add.

  • Let banks know not to Freeze my cards: I still have to do this one actually....

  • Bag to protect Pack in check luggage: Purchased a 'Laundry Bag' because Hiking packs have lots of clips/straps that could get caught and broken in transit.

  • Phone Plan: Have settled on Cricket Mobile, seems highly recommended by past international hikers and it's on the ATT network (one of the better coverages.) Best of all, compatible with my current Australian (/Asian market) Samsung S5.

  • First day in USA shopping/mailing list: This is going to be hard, not knowing brands etc. At least I'll have a generic list together. Includes Gas (from REI) for my burner, Food (Supermarket) Lighters and hitting a Post office at some point to send on food.

  • First nights accom: Hostel in LA. HI in Santa Monica seems decent (any suggestions?)

  • Amtrak Ticket to San Diego: Seemed better than a bus and cheaper than a flight.

  • Second night accom: Staying at a Trail Angels in San Diego. These guys are awesome. They'll put you up for a night, feed you and give you a lift to ste starting point. Look up Scout and Frodo if you plan to do a hike.

  • Lift to Southern Terminus: See above.

  • PCT Permit: From the PCTA website. They start releasing permits early Feb, get in fast as some days get booked out quick.

  • Arrange Bear Cannister: For international hikers, keep your ear to the ground for the Bear Can Loan program. Saves having to buy/rent a ~$70 piece of equipment you'll never use again.

  • Permit to enter Canada: Can be done via email, so you can legally walk into Canada.

Hopefully this can give you an insight to what's been going through my head.

Tuesday 8 March 2016

Diving - 2016 03 - Curtin (Clean Up Australia Day)

Friday 4th March

Very early start on Friday morning. I was heading in with James to save money on parking at the MiCat terminal ($20 a night...) which meant I was leaving home by 5:50 am... Made it to the barge with plenty of time to spare and reshuffled gear into the two 4wds present (Liz' Prado and Ash's Landy) while awaiting Linton (with his Prado) Got a call and they were stuck coming south on the Bruce. Dead stop. They stayed positive but it was looking like they wern't going to make it. Graeme was also stuck in it, but he had already decided that there wasn't much chance of making it so pulled off for a coffee instead. Liz was in the ear of the Skipper to hold back a little but in the end we had to head off without Lynn and Linton. Luckily we had a credit for 1:30 that afternoon so they swapped into that slot. Just after the barge took off we got a call from the people bringing the boat over, our boat wasn't starting! After trying their all the decision was made to drop into Wynnum Marine who quickly identified the solenoid for the choke was playing games and it was an easy 2 second fix, no charge!


Despite the lag to start the trip over went well with Croissants for smoko. Cruised up the low tide on the beach but hit a little soft sand as we turned into the Cowan bypass road. The Prado bogged down a little but was able to back out of it and head back in. Unfortunately in this time someone went around them and got stuck just off the beach, blocking the path... Bunch of guys in hawaiian shirts, on a fishing trip by the looks of it, who had a pile of empties on their table on the barge over...  Luckily they had other friends nearby and got out pretty quickly. We were creeping up on the Cowan turn off and then creped straight past it. Ash quickly pulled off to the side but John kept going straight past. Eventually we all made it to the house to find some very reasonable accommodation. Much better than I'm usually accustomed to over on Moreton.

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After lunch we started to gear up for out first dive. Remember the old saying bad luck comes in threes? Well with the Traffic stopping people and the boat not starting it was me for the third. I forgot my single tank adapter! Woops. First time ever on a trip I have forgotten a piece of gear. Luckily as Mike was skipper he let me borrow his BCD so I could dive. As there will always be a skipper there should be one spare most dives. We dropped in for a gently drift dive on the pines. Heaps of bright orange Nudies and plenty of fish. A turtle some crabs and shrimp also were hiding amongst the coffee rock. Just as we started our safety stop we found a cool Couch Whip ray and a decent school of Cobia who hung about for most of the 3 min stop.


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Back to shore and Linton and Lynn had made it over to join us. We went over the dive brief for the afternoon dive. Mostly a reckie dive, scouting sites and measuring wrecks. On the dive we also took the opportunity to start a little of the clean up. Amongst the scouting we probably cleaned 1.5 buckets worth of line, rope, lures and sinkers before heading back. Seeing a nice Honeycomb Moray and lots of other fish. I moored up the boat on the provided buoy and had a nice 100m swim back to shore.

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Compressor was having some trouble with the release valve, what happened to the rule of three!? It all seemed to work out in the end. With 4 guys there, I was happy to sit back with a beer and watch. Alan D took D3's boat to pick up those coming over on the Tangalooma flyer which saw them showing up at around 7pm, just in time for the group dinner. Pete and John thought the steak was a little too much alive but managed to correct that with significant heat. With the salad, steak and sausages we weren't going hungry.



Saturday 5th March

I couldn't seem to escape the stupidly early mornings. I volunteered (why, I still don't know) to skipper the 6am dive on the proviso that someone else fetched the boat... Luckily Gary Snr and Alan D stepped up and I got my sleep in to the slightly less unreasonable time of 5:45am. Only slightly. Rolled out of bed got into my boardies grabbed a muesli bar and a can of V and jumped on the boat. Reports came back of a brilliant dive on slack high. A few buckets from the clean up to take back with us as well as more measurements looking for a suitable site.

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Once back those scheduled for the next dive (quick turn-around) decided that Bacon sounded like a much better idea. I agreed, I jumped on the BBQ with an Assist from Nic to feed all the hungry divers. After our stomachs were full our attention turned back towards diving. It didn't take long to round up 7 divers and 3 snorkelrs for a trip up to Flinders reef. We headed off but as we poked our nose around the top of the island the call was made to turn back. Always better to err on the side of caution. With a little bit of wind and swell and a time limit for the arvo slack tide dive we doubled back and dropped onto the Combi Drop Off for a drift dive. We missed the wall at first but after 10 or so min of flying over the sand we finally saw some coffee rock. At this point James had already decided he was done with his dive (there was bad air in his tank) and he and Nic went up to the surface. Paul, the Garys and I followed the wall a little bit before The Garys went off in search of greener pastures. Paul and I stayed the course and found the main portion of the wall we were aiming for all along. We were heading pretty fast leaving little time to stop and capture a pic but we went past a few things including an Octopus swimming effortlessly through the current just after Paul deployed his SMB


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As I hopped onto the boat I couldn't see Nic and James, they should have been up ~20min ago... Just as we finished securing the tanks Garys popped up nearby and we grabbed them quickly. Just on the edge of vision we could see a SMB fully deployed so we made a B-line towards it to find James and Nic very ready to get into the boat.


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Just after we landed back Alan D returned  from a run to pick up the Crew (Reporter + Camera man) from 7 News. As we're doing our Curtin clean up in conjunction with Clean Up Australia Day 7 news had got wind and Liz organised for them to come out and grab some footage.


[facebook url="https://www.facebook.com/7NewsQueensland/videos/1121570991189085/" /]

I had a quick rinse in the outside shower, grabbed a beer and sat down for my tenure on the compressor. There was another dive organised, drifting on the pines, but I went quite a bit into deco on the clean up so I decided beer and a seat was in order for the afternoon. A few people started sifting through the mess that we all pulled up. Separating salvable (Sinkers, Anchors etc) from rubbish (line, corroded hooks, rope) and other general waste. Including a pretty badly rusted spear. Spero would have been upset when they lost that! A few hours passed, the harmonic hum of the compressor filling the air, as we retired to the top deck for cheese and biscuits with the sun setting over Brisbane. Watching a cruise ship float north as the smell of Garlic bread cooking in the bbq started to make my mouth water. Looks like we'll be eating well, very well catered by Liz.

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Sunday 6th March

A bit more reasonable this morning, but not by much. 6:30 on the boat for a 7am dive. I jumped on diver making 8 divers in total + Skipper. We had some difficulties starting the boat. Blaming it again on the Choke that was stuck on Friday. After some careful deliberation we discovered the dead man switch was unplugged... once that was rectified it kicked over first go. The came the fun bit, deciding where we were on Curtin. 9 people in the boat, 5 staying very quite. Pete going off old shore markers, Linton giving bearings and Me saying "You know we have this mark in the GPS... right? All with Mike saying I'm not picking a spot you throw the anchor when you want. Eventually we thought we were on something and dropped it over. Landing about the middle of the concrete pipes north of Kos 1. Not too far off the Melbourne (which is exactly where the GPS would have put us...Just saying)


We finally jumped in for a dive a bit more scouting for a suitable site, as well as collecting surface marks. 2 buckets were taken down and got some rubbish in them, unfortunately only 1 made it back. The other was put down to collect some line and drifted off. No worries, we'll grab that in next years clean up ;) All in all we came back with 4 anchors and almost 50m in chain so it was a net positive in either case.


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Back to shore for quick breakfast and another boat load out for a drift on the pines. I skippered and, remarkably, was able to follow the GPS and depth sounded and find the right spot to drop in. The current was pretty strong on some of the dive, As I followed bubbles above I lost them in the wind. Couldn't pick them up again so just drifted along keeping an eye on the sounder for the right depth. I made it all the way to the Bulwer wrecks and thought it was a bit too far. When I couldn't see any SMBs at the 50min mark I decided that I should probably get moving. Started driving back north and just picked up Jo raising her SMB, which was slightly thicker ( and a brighter orange) and headed to pick them up. In the end they drifted near on 1.8k, I went about 2.5...


Back on shore again for lunch. Some of us that were leaving in the arvo and slowly started to pack and sort out gear. Others went out to fit in a sneaky last dive which sounded like it was a pleasant slow drift on the Curtin. Little bit more rubbish returned, but it's a bit harder with the current. After that we loaded our gear into Dive Dive Dive's boat (which they had graciously rented out to us for the weekend, really came in handy!) and headed home to Manley. Wind had picked up and it was a bit choppy so we got a bit wet on the drive back. We also had a slight problem with one of the engines, fuel filter or pump possibly. All was well though and we were back in the marina by 4pm.


Huge thanks to Liz for organising and to everyone that helped with Gear, Filling tanks and Driving boats. It's truly a group effort to pull off one of these weekends and in my opinion we did all right. Here's too the next one!

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