Bibbulmun Track - Day 10 - 15

Day 10

It was meant to be another 30+ km day today but to give the blisters a chance to fully heal (they were much better already yesterday) I'll split the day and just single hut. Making it only 14 ish km.  

The trail out of town leads you right past the front door of the Blue Wren Cafe, so you would be amiss not to stop on there for breakfast. Bacon, Cheese, Avo Crossiant goes very well, especially with a side of grilled haloumi and a 600ml bottle of sugar, I mean coke.  

Another day another detour. This one only adds 900m and follows a pretty good route. The trail heads through a pine forrest and the detour isn't for fire this time but because they're actively logging. All quiet today for the public holiday I guess. 

Got into the hut just after 1130am and seriously considered just pushing on. Feet are feeling great with such a short day... but I have the extra food... so I pulled up. I've been feeling some tightness in my Sciatic Nerve so I've joined the many that seem to have a daily stretching routine at camp. At least there was plenty of time to do them.  

The spare time also allowed the opportunity to get a good collection of wood for a fire later tonight. It still seems kinda wrong collecting wood from forests/parks to burn but I know there was meant to be a crowd here today and its a good social gathering feature. 

13 eventually made it with 4 chosing to tent and 3 more that pushed on for a double day (+1 in the log book that went through before I arrived), that left 6 for the shelter. Putting dried leaves in the fire pit saw it start to smoulder, obviously used last night... Makes it easy to start. 

Despite the lazy morning and short day it was still bed time by about 730pm. 

Day 11

Camp started stirring by 630am but the site was in a bit of a valley and it was a touch cold so I hid in my bag until closer to 7. By that point I was wide awake so it was time to move. Quick breakfast then out on trail. 

Fingers were a bit cold gripping the trekking poles and while it was a slight incline right from camp it wasn't until about 4km in with the first real hill that I properly warmed up. Up and over the hill, with a little 'phone signal' plaque nailed to a tree at the peak.   

From there is was a pretty steep down to a creek with a bridge and then straight back up the other side. Past that it was pretty cruisy staying pretty level along the side of a hill until I stopped for lunch. I always take my shoes off for the lunch break to air out the feet. 

I eventually reached the bottom of the valley and hit Murry River, not the Murry River but a Murry River. So close you could reach out and touch it, then the track takes an abrupt left turn and you're half was up the hill before heading back down the same side of the same hill to the hut, which is on the water... 

I got in just after noon and the sun was out. Shay had already braved the water and didn't hide the fact that it was cold. After that hill I was glad to cool off... but it was  quite a bit colder than I imagined... still... very refreshing. Just after I hopped out there was a bright Neon Blue Wren dancing near the shore line. 

Time again to collect some wood and there was a deck of cards in the trail log book box which provided some afternoon entertainment. They had recently fixed the water tank here and refilled it with, what we assume, was town water. Tasted weird after 1.5 weeks of drinking rain water. We also saw a mouse hopping about, so more justification for the mouse hang. 5 in the shelter with 2 tenters.

Day 12

Rained pretty heavy over night, at least it drowned out some of the snoring... It had cleared by the morning and there was only white and fluffy clouds left in the sky. Ben had trouble sleeping apparently, turns out a mouse running over your face wakes you up a little...  

Another short day, 19 ish km. Starts with a hill right from camp which is the steepest part of the day. You follow, very loosely, the river. Diverting off up a hill, with no view, then back down to the river, with no easy access... 

Passed a few people out camping for the WA long weekend. Some nice setups along the river. One crew had bitten off a bit more than they could chew and got stuck in a bog hole. Different people yelling different advice... reminds me of when I got up to that stuff...   

The day fell fairly quickly and I actually reached the next camp by 1115am.  Again had strong feelings of pushing on but decided that I had carried enough food so I might as well take it easy.  Another good fire with a good crew. Only 3 in the shelter tonight, 2 in tents. 

Day 13

Were not too far away from a Bauxite transport conveyor here so all through the night you can hear the distant humm of the belt running. In a bit of a valley too so the sun was slow to rise, making it a bit colder in the morning. A little longer today at 22km but pretty easy elevation change ahead. 

A lot of today is on 4wd/forestry roads which isn't too exciting but the kms fall fast. About 4k in there's a nice suspension foot bridge to cross. There use to be an old historical log foot bridge but it burned in a big fire years ago.  

More 4wd tracks until you're back along the river edge. Popular camping spot here too and school holidays so most of the bank was lined by tents and campers. Perfect spot to offer some trail magic (hint hint for any Perth locals reading) as its just about lunch time from the hut. 

None for me today though and just as I was eyeing off a good spot on the river but away from campers it started to drizzle so I pushed on. Another 2k for the rain to stop and I found a tree track side to setup for lunch. Probably should have put up with the rain to enjoy the river view.  

Just after lunch was straight into a big hill. You cross under the conveyor belt, which is a bit louder when you're right under it, and continue up a hill. They half process the bauxite here and transport it a massive distance on this belt.  

Few more hills before reaching Possum Springs shelter. Its a pretty fancy rammed earth one and much different setup to the others. I saw neither a possum not a water spring... creek about 500m away... but at least the tanks were full. 3 in the shelter tonight and 1 tent. Mary, 79 and going strong, amounst them. 

Day 14

Woke up to fog encompassing the shelter. Though it did feel a bit warmer than yesterday. Fingers felt a bit exposed last morning so I hiked out of camp with gloves on. Was only 3km before I was warm enough to take them off. There was a great Green tunnel affect with some encroaching trees early in the day. 

Double hut day so I pushed a little further than normal and made it 12km before smoko. Feet are still feeling pretty good. Blisters from the first leg are completely healed and no new ones yet.   

18.7km to the first hut for lunch. Kicked off the shoes and had a good rest. Nice hut here with lowlands and paperback trees. Very pretty spot for lunch. Fields of flowers on the approach.

Most of the elevation for the day was in the first half, so the second 14km ish to Harris Dam hut went pretty smoothly. 

Saw a Bob-Tailed Blue Tongue Lizard sunning just beside the path just before I got in. Another nice fire at camp, someone else built this time. 4 in the shelter plus 1 camper tonight. 

Day 15

22km into town so I got a decent start near 7am and walked pretty fast. 4k in you pass on the down hill side of Harris Dam. Water looked cold. 

I took a few breaks but none too long and got into town just before midday. Signed the logbook at the info centre and headed to the accom for the night. Got a twin room at the Colliefields with another hiker. All up $5 more than an unpowered site at the caravan park... free laundry too!  

Lunch at a Cafe before shower and laundry then into town for a resupply. Both Woolies and Coles here and a decent camping store so an easy resupply.

Just the one night here, heading out after breakfast in the morning. The plan is for Thai with a few other hikers for dinner, then probably still early to bed... 

Bibbulmun Track - Day 1 - 9

Night before

After lazing about half the afternoon I went up the road again to the pub for dinner. Despite being an ALH hotel (Woolies owned) they wanted $45 for a steak! So I settled for the Parmi instead. 


Day 1 

In what seems to be a rather annoying reoccurring theme to the beginning of my recent hikes, the BOM radar looked like this; 

The track begins by taking you through a nice nature reserve that is littered with a spider network of tracks. There is also an abundance of trail markers though to keep you on the right path. The large granite boulders would make anyone familiar with Girraween feel right at home. 

Wild flowers are already starting to emerge and individually are really pretty but its hard to capture the expanse and colours that run across some hills. Despite the numerous drawbacks of the rain it does provide the opportunity for good creek flows and some nice water falls. 

I got to the first shelter, Hewett's, for smoko just as a hiker Klaus was getting ready to leave. I brought the rain with me though so he waited it out for 10min which gave us a chance to talk. I didn't stay too long, the pub for lunch (what a great trail food) was only 8 ish km away.

I made it to the Mundaring weir (about 20min shy of the pub) just as yet another rain burst hit so I hid in the public loo. Lightning and thunder with this one... it eased off so I set off across the weir, only to get half way before it was raining heavy again.. oh well only 900m more to the pub. Good meals, great people, but still fairly pricey.

From there it was just under 5k to Ball Creek hut. I made it in before 3 and briefly considered another 8km to Helena before it started raining again... here is good, I decided, not wanting to step out into the rain again. The huts are well built if a little drafty, to be expected in 3 wall shelters. 

Roof water collection, seat/tables and platforms for beds. Luxury. I have read a lot of rodent issues though, so I brought the mouse hang kit which I usually don't bother with. Klaus wandered in some time later so I had some company for the afternoon and after 5 we were joined by another hiker who also started in Kalamunda this morning.

It was dark just after 6 and I was snug in my bag before 7. 

Day 2
I started with sunshine and blue skies, which is a real nice thing to wake up too. Slept fairly well despite the shelter noises etc. Broke camp at a decent time, so I thought, by 7am. Just as I was putting the last things in the pack a trail runner was already passing by. 

The blue skies didn't last too long and by mid morning I was walking in a very light misty shower. Not enough to bother with the rain jacket but enough to make things damp.

A few people trickled north as I made my way south. Passed the Helena shelter turn off, which was the plan for smoko but decided to go a bit further. Made it another 2km before finding a great viewpoint from a granite slab. I even had the sun poke its head out for me. 

The next stretch to Waalegh shelter had some pretty steep ups and downs, really good thigh workout. The shelter itself had a really good view and was a great place for lunch. It is a little exposed at the top of the hill though and with today's winds I cooled down very quickly, reaching for the jumper after just a few min.

The remaining 9km to my final stop fell pretty easy. Spotting 2 Emu getting about on the way and loads of Sundew (carnivorous plants) lining the side of the track.  5 people at camp tonight, 4 in the shelter and 1 that set up her tent. Might be a loud night...

Day 3
Fairly early pack again and on trail by 715. Its another "Tripple Hut" day today (skipping two camps) but mostly because there is a fire diversion that has locked out 2 huts... there is a Temporary about mid way I hope to reach for lunch. 

The diversion started about 5km from camp. Some of the trail there was pretty over grown, so despite it not raining today I was still wet. At the diversion I realised I had a brain fart at camp and left without my spare socks!!

I made the mistake of having them on an existing line (rather than my own cord) which broke routine... I only have two pairs so I set my pack behind a tree and started to double back. It was actually quite easy going without the weight. Luckily I only had to go about 1 km before I spotted Terry and he immediately called out "I've got them."

After many a thank you I set back off and picked up my pack on the way. What's an extra 2k... ? The detour is on a decent graded but gravel filled forestry road. Which my current shoes have a habit of collecting rocks on (almost as enthusiastically as my Nephews and Nieces) so that wasn't fun. The next stretch started with about 6km of incline. Not steep, but constant. Up. For what felt like Forever. I didn't see any cars/4wd on the stretch but as I neared the end of the detour a school bus whizzed pass... and then pulled up about 500m in front of me. I watched as 20+ students and 3 teachers spill out of the bus door. I don't think I did an amazing job of hiding my smile when they told me they were heading north, the opposite direction to me...

Past the bus there was more trail and a few less used bush tracks before reaching the temporary camp for lunch. This was followed by a stint on a power line easement, which wasn't too bad, before getting to the Brookton Highway and finding myself back on proper trail. Just past the highway was a great granite slate with crystal clear water at its base. Then I was in wetlands for a while with the trail just barely keeping me dry. 

At the shelter there was already a crowd of 4, then me plus three others from the same shelter last night making it 8. Talk over dinner was about the brand new (unbeknownst to everyone but the NOBO that just came through) fire detour. Adding 8km for tomorrow. I had planned for a double hut which is 30... 38 is a touch more than I would enjoy... so it might be my first hut to hut day at 24km. Lucky I generally pack a spare day of food...

Day 4
Got away at a decent time, 3rd to leave the hut. It was pretty scenic 7km down to Canning Creek and the start of the new diversion. Past that more gravelly forestry roads and more stones collected by the show. Ks dropped pretty fast though and I hit 11km just before 10 and took a rest. 

Short while later I was on pine forest roads which were much softer. However it seems to be as popular as Glass House for 4wding so there were many bog holes. Thick scrub to the sides and the first few I was able to etch around but eventually had to plough straight through knee deep water. Solid base at least but wet shoes. 

Made 18 km for lunch where Jim caught up and joined me. Not long after I set off from lunch I saw a beautiful Tiger Snake. He didn't appreciate me trying to take a picture, but I got one as he slithered off. 

Made it the 24km to the next hut by 2pm and had to decide if it was worth pushing on. Decision was made when I checked a hot spot from yesterday and a blister had formed. I don't like hard gravelly roads...  popped and drained as it was pretty full of fluid. I'll let it dry tonight and then cover in the morning.

After the symphony of snores last night the main offender offered around ear plugs tonight. Past experience dictated that I already had mine close at hand but others took the offer. After long days I find it little trouble to fall and stay asleep. Only stirring for the midnight pee break.

Day 5
Pathfinder (who has been at the shelter last 3 nights) woke up with a cold and was going to hike to the nearest road to be picked up by a friend. Over breakfast she thanked me for answering her many questions about Thru's the last few days. Including some gems like yes, you should wash your socks and rotate every day! Not use the same crusty ones 4 days in a row... She described me as like the Wise Old Owl in a story. I wasn't too keen on the 'old' connotation but 'The Old Owl' seemed like a fitting trail name for the Bibb.

The track didn't mess about today, a few hundred meters before I was heading straight up a mountain. Then straight back down the other side. Then when I was down it was just a few hundred more for the next hill... 

I still made it to the Mt Cooke shelter in good time arriving before 1030am. I knew I was close because I could hear the chatter of a large tourist group. Luckily they were just about ready to set off.  I needed water and most of the Mt Cooke climb was still ahead of me.

Looks to be a popular spot for day hikers as another few groups passed as I rested. After about 45min I got going again and just as I reached the summit the large tourist group were all pulling out their lunches. I took a quick snap but decided to push on.

The way down from Cooke was pretty sparse on markers but I eventually found my way which linked up to a power line easement. Another fire detour, adding just 1km. Unfortunately this one has you on the side of the Albany Highway for about 2km. Not my idea of a good time. 

The temporary Nerang camp site (Primary Shelter was just 600m inside the closed zone...) left a bit to be desired. But I found a flat spot, and there was water and a porta-loo, so I guess its not too bad. 3 others enjoyed the site with me. We also saw a couple of Black Cockatoos having some adult fun time. (I later found out that quite a few hikers snuck into the Shelter, despite the closure.....)

Day 6
Was a bit hotter in the tent than the shelters so I sweated a bit which caused inner condensation. No where real comfortable for breakfast here so I packed up and ate a muesli bar as I was moving.

After a while I started to feel a pain in my right foot. Not just general soreness but actual pain. It slowed me down and I was seriously considering if I could make the 33km today. I finally reached down to discover not one but two rocks lodged in my shoe... There have been a few short gravelly trail stints already today.  

Other than that the first stretch was good trail with a very easy gradient so I still got to Gringer Creek hut fairly early and enjoyed a long break. Looks like I'm developing another blister, same place other foot. So I took the time to put some tape on it.

Next stretch started out flat too but quickly turned into hills. Not huge hills compared to some but 200m climbs feel pretty big after already walking 21km... One mountain looked pretty similar to Bald Rock. The last push up another similar sized hill gave me false hope as I rounded a peak, which wasn't the peak.

Shelter was pretty busy tonight, already 6 in it but plenty of room in the middle. As I set up one decided it was to crowded for them and opted to set up their tent. Which left plenty of room for Collin, who was at the temporary site last night and was very happy to see a spot vacant just for him moments after he arrived.

Day 7
In the morning Collin discovered his food bag had been chewed into. It was in his pack, which was resting on the floor. Luckily the pack itself was untouched. It only got a tiny nibble out of his 2min noodles so not too bad. I was on the fence about bringing my mouse hang kit but I guess that justifies it. 

Just as I was about to step foot outside the shelter it started raining... fairly decent shower as I ascended the second peak of the white horse hill. More granite slabs but an easy climb. From there it was a steep down for a little but then mostly flat until it was time to climb Mt Wells.

Made it to the top for lunch, the shelter here is a bit different as its a converted fire watch hut. The tower is still here and you can get up to a platform midway for a decent view. Few more showers on and off with blue skies. Sun mostly hidden.

Very easy grade down from the top, though I wouldn't consider it easy going up... long decent 350 ish meters over 3km. Very constant. Plenty of creeping white wildflowers. I found a patch of sun to try dry off from the morning, the clouds found me shortly after... The socks did NOT have a chance to dry, but at least the feet mostly did. It wasn't long to the shelter after that for a fire then a good sleep. I don't think my feet are currently conditioned for back to back to back 30+ km days... 

Day 8
Fairly easy start to the day. Only 20.7 km to town. Feet are still a bit sore from the last few days so I took it slow. After about 9km you link up with an old rail line, what I imagined the BVRT would actually bike. Walking along the still intact rail line. Loads more wild flowers today as well.

It diverted of the rail but ran parallel for the rest of the way. They occasionally run a tourist train out to an old station so I guess they have to keep hikers off it. The trail twisted and turned up the bank with overgrown trees still damp from the mist dropping water on me. Quite a few times I considered just ducking back over to the train line..

As I walked into town the trail walks you right past the visitor centre and cafe. A great place to stop for lunch I thought. After finishing up there I went to the Caravan Park to grab a bed for the night and take care of some chores.

Just as I started laundry, sitting there in my laundry kilt as everything else was in the wash, a school group turned up to setup in the group site adjacent. They were riding part of the the Munda Biddi, a bike trail that runs fairly parallel to the Bibbulmun. It did make for a long wait for the shower but most of the kids were good. They did 45km today, so I guess that saps a bit of energy...  

After chores I headed into town. I ended up buying a pair of thongs as my wet shoes at the shelter were becoming annoying. Then it was off to the pub for arvo/dinner, I was surprised that for a hiker/mountain bike town I was the only one there late afternoon. 5 other hikers eventually made their way in and we shared a table for dinner. HUGE portions for every meal. 

We didn't last too long out though before it was past out bedtime and we hiker hobbled the 500m back to the caravan park for an early night.  Rooms are... modest. But dry and come with a towel. Walls are very thin. If you're the person in #1 that was watching TV on your phone; Get some headphones.

Day 9

Slept in until about 8am. Lucy had bought bacon and eggs for breakfast, brilliant idea I'll steal for lunch today. I had to shuffle rooms for tonight, a whole 6 meters from 2 to 4. Solo for now but I've let reception know that if another hiker shows they can have the top bunk. Terry, who I shared a few huts with, is having trouble with his knee and is going to hop off trail so offered me some left over gas/food as he packed away his gear. 

I went into town to grab supplies for the trail. First stop though, The Blue Wren Cafe for breakfast. Next over to the visitor info centre which has a good variety of hiking meals, if a little marked up... they have a small selection of other misc gear soap/sunscreen etc. They also have a bike workshop under the same roof with some other gear (like dry bags etc) if you're in need. IGA is great for everything else you'd need. With bottleshop attached.

The plan is for a very lazy afternoon with the feet up as much as possible. Repacking the resupply the only task. The next section to Collie is ~130km and should take 6 days at a casual pace. 

Bibbulmun Track - Pre Hike Prep - Day 0

Preparation for the next little adventure has been underway for a while.
This time I embark off to the Bibbulmun Track.  

The Bibbulmun Track is one of the world’s great long distance walk trails, stretching 1000km from Kalamunda in the Perth Hills, to Albany on the south coast, winding through the heart of the scenic South West of Western Australia.

-Bibbulmun Track Foundation.

After a bit of a pad failure on my Thorsborne Trail hike I had to arrange a replacement (after a full refund from Thermarest) but otherwise my gear was all sorted... up until I broke a trekking pole shaft on a little warm up weekend hike... No worries as I was able to cannibalise one of my other poles to hobble together a Zombie pole to see me through. 

The trail is very well supported by towns (though the first leg of 211km is a bit daunting for a food carry) however I still plan to send off 1 resupply box with some new shoes (as my current pair already have ~400km on them) and couldn't resist throwing in some comforts from home to fill up the box. Like mum-made Anzac biscuits!  

I put together most gear the last weekend, giving me the chance to add all the things I likely forgot (surprisingly little this time...) over the week and did some food shopping, with the plan to buy more after I land in Perth. 

Trekking Poles are always interesting to pack for a flight. I wrap the pointy tips in cardboard and tape and they (just) fit into my pack collapsed.  

Putting it all together also gives me a chance to weigh it, just under 6kg... but a few little bits and bobs (like battery pack) still to add in should round up my Base Park Weight (without counting Food/Water) to just under 6.5kg. A respectable weight without sacrificing too much comfort at all. 

You can check out my full kit here; https://lighterpack.com/r/2fovcq

All that was left to do was to make a watering plan for the pot plants I am leaving behind and mow the lawn.  

Today was an early start. What a silly time 4am in the morning is. M very generous and lovely partner took me to the airport and after some final good byes I headed in to check in the bag and join the zombie march through security, surrounded mostly by hi-vis orange. I also maybe a sneaky ham and cheese Crossiant as second breakfast, have to carb load before a hike you know!  

Flight was on time at least and we were off at 630am. Flight was about as good as you could expect for 4 hours in a metal tube. Aisle seet helps I think and Qantas, despite their other failures, has decent on board entertainment.   

After landing it was a short tide up to Kalamunda. I got dropped at the Perth Hills Discovery (Tourist info) Centre and had a chat to the lovely people inside. I signed the trial register then headed into town. 

North Bannister Roadhouse (my first partial resupply) is closed for Reno's, so ill need a bit more food... Next stop at the Mitre 10 to grab some hiking gas and then Coles for snacks. The food bag was 3.1kg before I left home and probably rounded up to over 4kg after the extra 2.5 days worth. 

I had to pass by the starting gates to get through to tonight's accom. Stipped and had a chat with Gerome who just finished and Terry who was just beginning his 4th End to End (E2E.) He was heading 11km to the first shelter tonight (I am hoping to make it there for smoko tomorrow morning.)  

Its about 800m to the Perth Hills BnB. A cosy place with a few old rail carriages converted into rooms. Bit fancy to begin a hike, but I'm worth it. The plan for the rest of today is to kick the feet up for a while but then head back into town for dinner. 

Next town is 211km and I should reach it after 8 days hiking. 

Let's go Hiking!!