1st April.
We had a bit of a false start with another Covid lockdown in Brisbane throwing a spanner in the works. Unfortunately a friend due to come down from Cairns had to postpone in the uncertainty too.
Luckily there was some good news early Thursday morning and according to the Premier 'Easter is good to go!' We still had a few loose ends to sort out before we could head off though and eventually left Brisbane just before 430pm.
Traffic was a little heavy on the motorway but as soon as we passed Ipswich it was open roads. Takong the new Toowoomba bypass saves a bit of time and we made Dalby for dinner just after 7.
Quick bite before getting back on the road, destination for tonight was a free camp at Judds Lagoon. Some 60km shy of Roma we arrived at a reasonable time to 6 or so other groups, with 2 coming in just as we went to bed.
2nd April.https://www.strava.com/activities/5089553473
Early start as I was keen to get to Carnarvon Gorge. Judds Lagoon looked pretty good in the morning light, water seemed a little low though.
Stopped off at Roma for fuel and breakfast, not the best vegetarian options out here with everything closed for good Friday (I had a sneaky sausage roll) so we pressed on.
Making it to the main Carnarvon visitor centre by 11 we had some wraps for lunch, rearranged our packs (which were significantly laden with 6 days of food...) officially starting the great walk at 12!
The Gorge was as beautiful as I remember from when my parents brought us here (many many years ago) one could even say that its Gorgeous. It wasn't long before we were engulfed by the towering walls of the Gorge and hit the first side trail to the Amphitheatre.
There was a tour group with a guide telling a story but luckily before long they suggested 30 seconds of silence so we could actually enjoy the Amphitheatre. I was keen to move on but my hiking buddy thankfully convinced me to hold off and less than 5 min later we had the whole thing to ourselves.
Onto the next side trail a really nice slot canyon with bright red rock and crystal clear water and then onto one of the best places in Australia to see Aboriginal Artwork, the aptly named "Art Gallery"
From there (and a few more creek crossings) there was The Cathedral for some more art and then shortly after camp. Was a little busy at camp with 12 people but there was enough space and some good company for afternoon snacks. Was dark for dinner and we were in bed soon after. Nice cool temp, but not cold enough to reach for a jacket at dinner.
3rd April.https://www.strava.com/activities/5089553606https://www.strava.com/activities/5089553795
A relaxed morning putting together gear but once we were away is was only a few hundred meters until we were in an amazing slot canyon. We followed this amazing canyon for a few k before shooting up out a small cutting. Loose river rock under foot made the journey a little slow.
It was a steep climb out requiring a little bit of scrambling and a lot of breaks. Once out of the canyon the uphill didn't relent. Not as steep but many many stairs. All in all over 700m elevation gain in a fairly short distance. We pushed onto Battleship Spur for lunch and the view was spectacular.
From there is was another 10.3km until camp. The grass on the plateau has made full use of the recent rain. We were wading through a sea of lush green waist high grass for most of the remaining distance.
Only 6 others at camp tonight and a pair of big underground water tanks to collect from. Had a good chat with a couple from Townsville who saw Emus on trail today! Will have to keep a keen eye out tomorrow.
4th April.https://www.strava.com/activities/5089554300
We got a few showers over night so the tent was a bit wet. After a quick wipe off it didn't take too long to dry. We were second out of camp this morning but the first were heading counter clockwise so first on trail.
Low cloud handing about made it misty. A few very like sprinkles just to keep things damp. Waist high grass again but this time laden with droplets. A bit harder pushing through them and shoes, socks and shorts were soon drenched. We were told the view from the top of the climb (still steep, but less than half the elevation of yesterday) was amazing, will have to take their word for it.
With the thick grass we lost the trail a few times. There was a footpad most if the way again but it was easily obscured. Luckily we had a good general sense of direction and it usually wasn't too far between trail markers.
As everything was wet we only stopped for 2 short breaks on suitable rocky seats.
Making good time we rolled into camp just after 1pm. Still overcast and threatening showers, but we got away with very light sprinkles for the rest of the afternoon. It was a good chance to do some laundry but without the sun things weren't drying too well.
5th April.https://www.strava.com/activities/5089554878
Big day today so we got up early and got a fairly efficient start. It's just over 17km to camp but there's a lookout via a 5km detour I thought was worth doing. A few more showers last night and a misty morning meant another sea of wet grass. Shoes lasted maybe 1km before they were soaking wet.
We were making pretty good time when we reached the junction for the lookout. We decided to press on for lunch, as at the time I thought it was just 1.5k... At the 1.5km mark there was a big hill to go down so I had to double check the map... 2.5km... woops. We were glad for the break. Side note: Peawaddy Gorge lookout isn't that impressive...
The walk back to the trail was really beautiful as a mist had set in over the Mahogany Forest. Lush green grass, but a wide trail so we didn't have to push through it.
Not long down the trail I spotted 3 emu but they bolted off and I barely caught a blur. I was in front and my buddy missed them, felt bad after dragging her down the side trail for a lacklustre lookout. Luckily though only a few hundred meters more until we saw a mother and her 2 kids, they hung around for a while too.
Lots of pig damage along the trail for the last few days and today we finally saw one of the beasts that cause it. A fairly small one compared to how big I know they can get.
At camp we were greeted by another pair of hikers we've shared camps with. The other couple had done a double day today, so it was just the 4 of us now. Nice shelter and underground water again. There was a fire drum too and the other pair decided to make use of it, no complaints from us. It took a while with the damp wood, but they persisted and we were very glad for it! Just at bed time it started to spit again might be in for another wet morning...
6th April.https://www.strava.com/activities/5089555249
Spitting on and off all night long indeed made for a soggy morning. Inside the tent has managed to stay 99% dry though which is good. Short day today too, just over 13km so it meant a sleep in and casual pack-up. Just as we were set to get going my hiking buddy tinged their back :o!
A few stretches and laying flat for a while, plus an ibuprofen, and they were able to walk at least. It was a gentle track along (or parallel to) a fire trail, mostly down hill. The walking movement seemed to help but we also had to stop at about the 6k mark for some feet care. 2 blisters on the toes for them. Three days with constant wet feet/socks/boots are really hard on the feet.
Despite our woes we still made it into camp well before 2 and were able to relax under the shelter. We even got a 5min grace in the misty rain to setup the tent! An inquisitive wallaby kept us company most of the afternoon as well.
We could get 1/2 a bar of Telstra service at camp and were able to check the weather, only 10% chance of rain tomorrow... when cleaning up after dinner we even managed to catch a glimpse of 1 star, before cloud cover quickly hid it from view again. By 730pm I was already in my sleeping bag, ready to dream of a sunny morning...
7th April.https://www.strava.com/activities/5089555926
Dreams didn't come true and it was yet another misty morning. There was a hint of the sun wanting to poke through after breakfast so we left the tent up for just a bit longer. It didn't get dry but close enough and we made tracks about 930.
About 30min later the was enough sunlight to cast a shadow! Grass lining the track was still wet, as were our shoes from it... A few steep decent today but with the clouds parting some great views.
As we were nearing Boolimba Bluff a small, tiny, cloud decided to sit right over us and let loose. Nothing like a sun shower to cool us off just as we were almost dry... luckily it didn't last long and we were soon at the lookout. Amazing views, just as I had remembered them.
There was still a bit to go before we were done though, and down lots and lots of stairs... also how I remembered them. Great landscape on the way down to distract from the feet feeling every step.
We got to camp and checked in with the camp hosts before quickly throwing up the tent and dashing off in the car to Takaraka (just outside Carnarvon) to buy a sneaky ice cream. Loads of signs at the entrance saying "Guests Only!" or some variation but we hit the afternoon rush, and must have looked the part, and they served us without any questions. A cold beer each and an ice-cream was a very welcome treat after 6 long days!
After we had the chance to wind down, as short as that was, it was time to go off in hunt of a Platypus. The short 1.2k nature trail winds along the creek and offered a few different viewing locations. We found a spot and were quietly waiting, as other people came and went. Standing still for all of 30 seconds, then walking off through grass and talking then wondering why they didn't see anything...
Luckily they didn't last long and we got down to just 4 of us there so we were able to see at least 2, possibly 3, surface a few times before ducking back under. Failing light and small glimpses didn't allow for any good photos though.
It was dark on the walk back to camp and we came across quite a lot of frog life hopping along the path. At camp I setup the shower shelter and we boiled some water to have a wash down. Was nice to feel at least a little bit clean...
After we had the chance to wind down, as short as that was, it was time to go off in hunt of a Platypus. The short 1.2k nature trail winds along the creek and offered a few different viewing locations. We found a spot and were quietly waiting, as other people came and went. Standing still for all of 30 seconds, then walking off through grass and talking then wondering why they didn't see anything...
Luckily they didn't last long and we got down to just 4 of us there so we were able to see at least 2, possibly 3, surface a few times before ducking back under. Failing light and small glimpses didn't allow for any good photos though.
It was dark on the walk back to camp and we came across quite a lot of frog life hopping along the path. At camp I setup the shower shelter and we boiled some water to have a wash down. Was nice to feel at least a little bit clean...
8th April.https://www.strava.com/activities/5089552625
Pancakes with Nutella for breakfast before our last packup. My feet were really sore walking around camp so we took a look and I had 2 blisters! Same place on each foot, just on the ball - at the base of the middle toe. All that elevation loss yesterday with soaking shoes and wet socks! I try to leave blisters to heal themselves but these were causing quite a bit of pressure so I got the needle out to make a small hole and drain them.
While it was almost time to head home there was one last thing to do. The Moss Garden, a side trail on the main gorge walk, was closed when we started. ~500m off trail of you hit it on the way but a nice short 7km return from the campground for us instead. Not wanting to leave the hike incomplete we ducked in after packing up and it was definitely worth it!
After returning to the car it felt soo good to take off the wet shoes knowing I didn't need to wear another pair for at least 3 and a half days. The drive to Roma went pretty smooth. No real holdups at all. We hit up a pub for lunch the had a quick stop at Roma's Largest Bottle Tree, easily viewed though the car window, and continued on.
Another relatively smooth drive for the rest of the trip home. Pulling into the driveway around 8pm. All the wet gear strewn across the patio and hiking clothes soaking in hot water (which immediately turned brown...) before a quick bite for dinner and a well earned shower!
Another Great! Walk done and dusted.
