Behind the Blogger

I grew up in an environment where it was very hard not to develop a deep love for the outdoors. Home, where I spent the first 22 years of my life, backed onto a 571 ha State Forest. There wasn't a week go by that didn't involve bushwalking or a BMX ride through parts of it. It also made a handy shortcut on the days we had to make our own way to school.

My parents were avid campers and most school holidays would involve getting all 4 kids into the back of an 80 series Land Cruiser and finding a new camping spot in the tranquillity of the bush or heading to an old favourite. Beach spots, amongst other families to play with, seemed to happen often as well... I think that was Mum and Dads way of getting us out of their hair so they could have a holiday too! If it wasn't camping we were heading away to the lake for water skiing or off touring to one of Australia's many natural attractions. There wasn't such a thing as a 'stay at home' holiday.

As I grew so did my love for the outdoors. By my teenage years I had already begun doing many multi-day hikes trough the National Parks and Forests of South-East Queensland. When I was old enough I got into 4wding to explore even more. With the love of water and exploring new locations it didn't take much of a jump for me to get keen on Scuba diving. It quickly became another passion vying for time.

I started recording trip journals for some of the adventures, mostly as a memory and a way or organise photos. I never really enjoyed writing as a kid, much preferred building a camp fire or getting dirty, though now I like being able to go back and relive what I've done. The mistakes that turn into lessons, the highlights of trips going perfect to plan and the excitement finding that new direction when things don't.

If you're looking for ideas on where to go on your next adventure, or simply want to share in one of mine, read on!

For what I generally take on my local treks you can check out my pack list on the LighterPack website. I'll generally include a separate list for any significant trips.

Hiking - 2026 04 - AAWT Part 4 - Thredbo to Kiandra

 Day 28

Few late night patrons from the pub/resturant next door making a bit of noise but I think I slept through most of it. Cereal for breakfast before we had to check out of the room. Not a huge day today so we were hanging in Thredbo for an early lunch. New shoes are feeling fantastic :) 

 

 
Stopped at the Foodworks for some last minute essentials (corn chips, salsa and softdrink for lunch, more M&Ms for the trail) and then to the bakery for a smoko sausage roll while others had coffee. Lunch was as above plus fresh fruit and a few slices of a $12 loaf of bread. (M&Ms were $9 a packet...) We were then dropped back at Dead Horse Gap to resume our hike.

After goodbyes we started. Up. Lots of stairs. Some made of wood sleepers, many of rock. Looks like lots of recent track maintenence and a few Bulka Bags of tools, rocks and mulch helicoptered in. More climbing, almost 500m up over 5km... 1.5 hours later and we reached the top of the Thredbo Chairlift. Geoff decided to hike this portion yesterday, with an empty food bag, and take the lift down (then back up after his rest day and resupply.) After our climb that felt like a very smart idea...  

Probably as a result of good weather and ANZAC day long weekend people were absolutely pouring down the path past us. Super busy. I had hoped with our late summit time we might have had it a bit quieter. When we reached the top there was still a long line for summit photos and people doing 5-10 poses and we didn't want to wait too long, so I took a picture of the (lid of) the actual monument, a Permenant Survey Mark. Which confused a few tourists. 

Heading back down from the top of Australia we turned off onto 'The Rolling Grounds' route and not long after, turned off again to Wilkinson's Creek campsite. We stopped short of the creek itself, it was already crowded and where all the cold air will drain. Not the most level spot but a good view over the valley. Even on the hill it got cold pretty quick though, we're still above 1900m. More people strolled in, at least 18 tents and many of them 2 person tents.

By the time we were reaching for our sleeping bags cold misty cloud was rolling over the mountains and already forming above the creek. Nice to watch... for a few seconds before hiding in the tent to get warm. It had already reached some of the tents near the creek. 

 

Day 29

Climb out of the creek and then back onto the Rolling Grounds. The first 6 or so kms are shared with a ~22km loop you can do from Charlotte's Pass, via Blue Lake and over Kosciuszko. Seems to be a popular route as we were seeing lots of people, quite a few apparently starting at sunrise.

As a result of the extra use NSW parks have made it a much more substantial trail. Some metal boardwalks, but many sections of large rocks placed. Pretty hard underfoot, really glad I got those new shoes. You could say the path was Rock solid. Other sections had retention fabric and large gravel, which was equally uncomfortable to walk on... 

Soon we reached the turn off to Blue Lake. As deep as a 10 story building apparently. We dropped packs and did the 2.5km return to the lookout. Guess it looks more blue when it's half frozen in winter...

  

From there the track was much less maintained... and much easier on the feet. Still crossed paths with 5 hikers out enjoying the long weekend, but no more day hikers. With less walkers it also meant a less defined foot track.

It was fine over a few peaks and saddles, I think it's still part of a 15 peaks loop (the highest peaks in AUS) that seems fairly popular. Eventually the foot track gave way to grass and there was little or no track to speak of. Navigation was pretty easy, don't head into the valley either side.

When we lost the track it was a quick reference on the Topo map if we needed to be on the right or left side of the next peak and then head off in that direction. Often we could see a track far off on the next saddle to aim for, sometimes we even found it before we got there... Far above the tree line we had sight lines for days and no scrub to get in our way, so it wasn't difficult.

Lots of mountain soaks, which many turned into creeks. Boggy grass and moss and hundreds, if not thousands, of bright green (apparently native) grasshoppers. As long as they're out here and not eating my plants, I guess it's ok...   

 

Eventually we reached the end of the range and it was time to head down. Soon trees were back and so was the scrub. Clear, worn, footpad to follow with knee high scrub encroaching from both sides. Short distance down and we reached Whites River Hut. Lost the sun behind a ridge about half way down. Still very light but already cold.

The hut was occupied by 3 hikers (parents and their adult son) and limited bed space so we set up our tents. They had the fire going inside though, so we joined them for dinner and a good chat in the now-warm hut. 

 

Day 30

Yet another frosty morning but this time we were in the valley so it took a bit extra for the sun to reach us. Not long after it did the frost melted away and with clear skies the tent actually got mostly dry before it was time to pack up and get going.

We started up the Schlink Pass Road, which seems to be the main maintenance road for the powerlines we were also following... For about 5.5km before turning off onto a more 4WD track. It's can't be all scenic views all the time I guess. Recently bulldozed, it was pretty dusty and rocky but still a bit softer than the gravel road. A few easy to hop over creek crossings and some climbs and steep descents later and we reached a bright red Valentine Hut. Little love hearts painted, or fashioned out of steel rods, adorned this cozy little hut. 

 
After enjoying the hut for lunch we set off down an apparently seldom used track to find Valentine Falls. It started ok and then quickly became scrubby. Easy to see the direction the track wanted to go though, but slow moving through it. At one point there were a heap of fallen, and cut, logs. So it was maintained at one point. Unfortunately, new trees had fallen in the exact same spot... However, the cut logs underneath did make for good steps to climb over the newly fallen. Pretty good falls. 

 

From there it was back to the hut and then continuing on the 4WD track. A few river crossings now, no way to keep dry shoes by rock hopping. So we ploughed on through. Quite refreshing, lucky its a warm day. The track seems to do a massive loop, over another (wet feet) river, up over a hill and then back down. On the way down you could look left and see the same falls we visited near lunch off in the distance.

Yet more creek crossings, at this point with still wet shoes not much effort was placed on a dry way across. Another 4 in total. The last only roughly 2km from camp. Strolling into camp with wet shoes and we bump into Jenny, who we met a few nights ago at Tin Mine hut. Still just doing some out and backs.

There was also 3 other mates out for a week, following a similar trip to our last few days, but the other direction. So it was a good info share and we got some tips about what's ahead. They had collected some wood already and got a fire going, and we were able to upgrade our shoes from absolutely soaking wet to merely damp.

As I went to screw on my stove top to boil some water for dinner I snapped off one of the pot stand legs (of 3) rendering it useless. It had a good run, 13 years old and completed the PCT (4,300km), Larapinta (220km) and Bibbulmun (1,005km) with me as well as loads of QLD Great Walks, the Overland Track in TAS and countless shorter hikes all over the place. Lucky hiking with Andrew he was happy to share hot water from his jetboil. I've cold soaked before... but it's not my preference. Especially with frosty mornings.

Day 31

More frost today, but we were on the western side of a shallow valley so sun hit the tents fairly early and it started melting off pretty quickly. The others all took off shortly before us as they stayed in the hut and didn't have tents to semi-dry. 

About 6km after we started we caught up to Jenny heading north (the other 3 went off south) and not long after bumped into a couple of SOBO doing the Kiandra-Kosi section. Soon followed by another group of 4 doing the same. Popular section.

It was 4WD trails all day, with a few wet creek crossings. We made good time to O'Keefes and pulled up a little early for lunch. The inside of the hut is lined with old newspapers from the late 1930's and early 1940's. Some interesting headlines. A few about WW2 as well.

More of the same 4WD trail and a few more creeks involving wet feet. We came across some Snowy Hydro employees working on one of their rain gauges. Installing new heating system as it has to survive ~4 months of snow with no visits. I did ponder for a second which way they were driving out... 

We made it to Mackay's Hut by about 3pm and propped our shoes up in the sun. Still damp by sunset we lit a small fire inside to finish drying them off.

Day 32

Early start for a planned longer day, 27.6km with a bit of up and down but no massive climbs. First creek near the hut had a nice foot bridge so we were able to keep our feet dry... for a while. About 8km in was another creek to walk through. Nice and refreshing.

Still on 4WD tracks all day and one short stint on a gravel road which is hard on the feet and we were glad to be rid of it. Passed the turn off to Happy Hut (which was a potential shorter camp) but we decided against it as it's 2km off trail. Then a backtrack, or bush bash up a ridge in the morning.

I was able to get service near Tabletop Mountain and let people know I was still alive. Good view back to Mt Jagungal, a side trip I'll have to come back to one day (we didn't fancy an extra 500m climb and a few extra kms yesterday.)

Despite passing through some brilliant and scenic open meadows the only animal life we've seen are insects, a few birds and the rare small skink scurry away. No feral  horses, sorry 'Brumbies', not even a kangaroo. Apparently emu are around here too, none of them either. For 2 days now, beginning to wonder if the larger animals know something we don't... 

We made it to Nine Mile Creek just before 3pm, not a bad effort. We had a look around for the (Chapman guidebook described) 'pleasant campsites' and couldn't see squat, but found suitable flat space in a saddle a few hundred meters beyond. Made for a good spot to enjoy the sunset, though quite cold as soon as it was gone. In our sleeping bags by 6pm.

Day 33

For the first time in about 2 weeks we woke without frost on our tents. Up in the saddle we had the sun rise behind a ridge by about 7:20am but even when I woke up around 6am at first light it was all water droplets. 

As we got moving there was some frost still hanging on under bigger logs or thick clumps of grass, but the day was quick to warm up. Cold wind did start to make a return, but in the sun it didn't feel too bad.

After smoko we started seeing very fresh evidence of horses, but they were still proving elusive. We made good time and reached Kiandra by about 10:30am. My original plan from here was to catch a ride into Adaminaby to resupply, but Justie (who ended his hike in Hotham) kindly offered to let me raid his drop. 

His trail diet is a bit... healthier than mine... But I was able to make do. As a forward thinker I was prepared and carried extra Skittles and M&Ms from Thredbo... His protein dessert bars should make a good breakfast. Lunch here at the boxes, then onto our last section!

Hiking - 2026 04 - AAWT Part 3 - Benambra-Corryong Rd to Thredbo

Day 21

Another misty/foggy morning packing up with a wet tent. Straight out of the gate was a 500m climb over a little under 3km. Who's idea was it to have such a big climb immediately after one of the more convenient resupply points? Pack is heavy with 6 nights of food... 

Luckily the bush was fairly open so using trekking poles helped with the elevation gain. There were a few loose rocky sections that took a bit more effort but over all the climb seemed to go smoothly. We even managed to climb out of the cloud and see our first blue skies in a while. 

There was yet more climbing to do, but it became more gentle and on a fairly recently maintained track. Sawdust piles still visable at some of the larger cut logs. We popped out onto yet another forestry management road, our track for the rest of the day, until we summited Johnnies Top.

A comms tower here, but either not Telstra, or we were too close, as we had little in the way of phone signal. A good full water tank and nice grass sites amongst the trees. As we had a bit of time in the arvo I also took to reparing a hole that developed in my shorts pockets. Definitely not as neat as mum could do, but should do the trick. 

Nick rolled in not long before dusk on his 4th traverse of the AAWT, which was amongst 9 different thru hikes through the area, the other 5 having varying routes following the same general direction southward over the great dividing range. 

Day 22

Sounded like the wind was howling last night, but wouldn't have known it in the tent. Dense regrowth after a fire provided much welcomed protection. Full blue skies, first time in what feels like a lifetime. The trail from the top was on an old management 4wd track that quickly morphed into a single foot track as it made its way down. 

Gentle at first for a good few k, it took a sharp nose dive near the end of the descent down to meet a nicely flowing Corner creek. The description for the next few km of track was 'swampy marsh' but we found it relatively dry. With a lot of low spots though, you can easily see how it would become swampy in wet weather.

Lots of criss-crossing brumby tracks leading off in various directions. More open bush and a bit of chose your own adventure, as long as you kept heading east and didn't cross the Creek to the north. Plenty of pink flagging tape made for very easy navigation in this 'non-defined' section of track. 

The valley then narrows and has you skirting up the side of a steep bank near the creek, loose soil and tough in sections, before opening up again. Less/no tape here but same general principle, head east and don't cross the creek. We definitely lost the track a few times but eventually found our way onto Beunba Flats. 

Large open valley popular with campers and hunters. One such group still camping in the valley stopped us for a chat and offered us a beer. It went down very well in the midday sun. We continued on about 1km to the other side of the flats for lunch.

Campfire left behind here still smoking and full of red coals. Luckily only 30m from the creek so we collected some water and put it out properly. Good, flat, open camping here, bet it's busy on long weekends.

From there it was another climb up through more open scrub. Sun hot on the back, but better than the chilling winds of days gone by. This particular hill seemed to go by quickly, must have been the bonus calories from the beer. Eventually popping out onto a gravel road, not just a track but a hard underfoot, maintained, gravel road. 

Shoes must be reaching end of life because I felt all the larger stones I stepped on. Luckily new shoes awaiting in Thredbo. We then turned onto a "Difficult - Dry Weather Only!" 4wd track, that I'm pretty sure you could drive Mums Honda Jazz down...

Further along we took a short side trip on Mt Murphy Rd to see the scant remains of a Wolfram (Tungsten ore) mine. Some concrete slabs and a few bits of rusty machinery seemingly all that's left. Then a short hour or so to Buckwong Hut.

The hut looks like little more than a Tin Shed from the outside. As it's locked we couldn't find out if it was any better inside. No more than 100m past the hut is a lush green wide open 4wd camping area. Plenty of fire pits around and could fit quite a few groups here, but we had it all to ourselves. Great spot to camp if you're in the area. 

Day 23

Woke up to frost on the tents, explains why I felt a bit cold last night... Guess we are near the creek. Sun shining on my tent by 720am did warm things up... A little... By the time we were ready to go I was back into T-shirt and shorts. 

Sign on the road saying "No trailers past this point" so maybe it does actually become difficult... We turn off up the creek so I won't find out. Following up the creek through really pleasant meadows. No track to follow except near choke points like around thickets of bush, or fallen trees. Any semblance quickly disappeared over the grass as hikers obviously spread out. Plenty of great camping along here too. 

Eventually it was time to climb again and a non defined route pointed us into thick scrub. A distinct lact of any track markers, or pink flagging tape, had us pushing through scrub. Plenty of Brumby tracks, some even heading vaguely the correct direction, all short lived. I followed the gps track off and on, crossing over and back. Down a faint goat track, until it was leading the wrong direction, then cutting back through scrub.  

We stopped in an open gully for smoko, where there is 3 track markers within 40m. All pointing up the middle of the clear gully. Those were 3 of 5 markers (total) we saw this entire stretch... The 3rd not pointing to any discernable track leading out of the clearing... Back to bush bashing. 

Luckily when we got to the steeper climb there was a faint track that became more and more defined as we reached higher and the scrub opened back up. Finally reaching Misery Trail (a 4wd track) at the top. Despite previous feelings, I was glad to hit this particular road. 

A few km on and turned off left back onto a single track. Well cleared and maintained with markers every 20 or so meters. There were even 3 instances of a double track arrow, pointing the same direction, on the the same tree. One of which had a 3rd marker on its opposite side (for those hiking the other direction.) If I had the time/energy I'd rip half, or more, of these markers off and nail them to trees from this morning... The trail crew even had time to carve smiley faces into stumps...

More up and down along a creek and then I got to see my first Brumbies of the trip. 2 adults and one much smaller, but not a young fowl. We had been seeing lots of fresh evidence (hoof prints and massive dropping piles) on the track so it was good to finally see some, and not just smell what they left behind. 

It wasn't much longer until we reached Limestone creek. Much smaller camping area than Buckwong, but still nice grass. Still close to the creek though, so I imagine another cool night.

Day 24

Woke up to more frost and the water bottle I had outside the tent had ice starting to form. We were a bit behind a hill today so the sun took longer to reach us. Quite cold breakfast and pack. We also had to get across Limestone Creek, which I managed only barely dipping my left toes in the water.  

Stopped a few hundred meters in to get my gloves back out and put them on. Fingers were freezing gripping onto trekking poles. Following up the bank of Stoney Creek, a much more defined trail than yesterday but still a few short stints we lost the trail. Very overgrown again so more pushing through scrub.

Eventually we left the creek to climb a short steep spur and met Cowombat Flat track. A 4wd track that continues past a locked gate, where it becomes a management trail. There was a few food drops near the locked gate. One bright white bucket basically out in the open. Trusting other hikers and 4wders not to take it. Another I only saw hidden behind a log, covered in a cammo net, as it happened to be the log I chose to sit on for lunch.

The well maintained dirt road took us all the way to camp for the night. Only semblance of anything interesting on the way was a nice 30 or so seconds as you pass Bulley Creek. Feet a bit sore after 15km on road. Nice spot to end the day though. Just past the mighty Murray River. Officially in NSW. 

At camp we met Geoff, who had been a day ahead in a few of the log books. Great for a chat. Geoff, Andrew and I took a short arvo stroll to check out Cowombat Flats. There is a few remains from a crashed RAAF Dakota plane, some feral horse traps (looks like they weren't currently set) and several sporatically placed odd looking fenced off areas, who's sign informed us were to keep Feral Horses out so they could monitor vegetation regrowth and compare to the unfenced adjacent areas. A few wispy clouds made for a nice sunset before bed. 

Day 25

Frost everywhere. All over Cowombat flats, all over my tent... but at least no ice forming in the water bottles. A bit slower to get going, waiting for the sun to warm things up. We did have a larger day planned though, so we were motivated to get moving. 

Another alternative day we were taking the Cowombat Trail, rather than the Pilot Trail the AAWT follows. This was because just 2km down the Cowombat trail was an offshoot trail to visit the source of the Murray River and the Black & Allan Cairn. Marking the straight line on the NSW/VIC border. 

After returning to our packs left at the turn off we continued up the trail until another side trip junction. The steep trip up The Pilot, known for 360° views stretching as far back as almost Hotham, and to the north the Snowy Mountains, including Mt Kosciuszko which we will reach in a few days. 

Geoff had taken the main AAWT route but also turned off (about 600m where we were to eventually rejoin) for The Pilot and happened to arrive just as we were finishing lunch and getting ready to head up. Numerous little rock cairns lead the way up to the peak... All slightly differently.... At one point the three of us were spread out across 40m, all with a rock cairn marking that we were on the 'correct' route up. It didn't really matter, as long as you were heading up...  

Brilliant views from the top as promised and another trig point. We spent a bit of time just enjoying the warmth of the sun and endless surrounding mountains before heading down... via yet another route. Keep heading down until you hit Cowombat Trail was our calculated nav route...  

From there more of the same 4wd management trail walking. Passing by a really nice creek and meadow, and pushing a few more km into Tin Mine huts. 2 huts (one much smaller than the other) and Jenny a friendly hiker out for a few days that already had the fire going. 

I quickly set up the tent (as it was still wet from the mornings frost) and then joined her at the fire. With the fire going I lasted until almost 745 before the call of a warm sleeping bag was too loud to ignore. 

Day 26

Set the tent in the sun yesterday arvo to dry off a bit as I packed it away wet. With the distraction of the fire I couldn't be bothered moving it under trees. So out in the open it got very frosty by morning...

Luckily a short 16km day so we were in no rush and let the sun do its thing and melt the frost away. Entirely fire trail and only an extra 10k to Dead Horse Gap, then 4k on the Thredbo River trail.. So I did consider making it to town a day early... By the time the tent dried it was already past 9am so those thoughts wavered.

No interesting side trips today and along the fire trail we were doing a little over 5kph. Few creeks that would look nice if brumby's hadn't destroyed their banks. Strolled into Cascade Hut around 1230. Nice little wooden hut and good grass camping nearby. 

Jenny was here, after a very early departure this morning, for lunch before she continued back out to Thredbo. Thoughts of pushing on resurfaced... but were put to rest after I took my shoes off to let the feet breath and realised I really didn't want to put them back on today. 

Inspired by the fire Jenny welcomed us with yesterday, and with plenty of afternoon to spare, I set out and collected a bit of wood. This would mark the 4th fire for the hike and only the second I have had a hand in making. A motor assisted Mountain Biker stopped by for a quick visit before speeding off. 

A while later Scott, a SOBO hiker, joined Andrew, Geoff and myself at camp. Few days since we've seen a SOBO so it was good to swap information about upcoming trail again. Warmer than last night (bit higher away from a meadow) and one of my latest nights on trail, 830 before bed. Must have been the good fire ;)

Day 27

Another short day planned, only 10km into Thredbo. Pretty long sustained climb up Bobs Ridge still though. Amazing views of the Rams Head range and of the Pilot behind us. Down the other side of Bobs Lookout it started to get busy with a few hikers heading out for a few days and lots of Mountain Bikes. 

Anzac day long weekend and apparently the last weekend that the chairlifts are used for downhill biking. Down into the valley along a nice river to round out the day.

When we reached the road we collected Andrews stashed resupply and his lovely family had driven down from Canberra to stay the night, so were able to pick us up and take us the 4km into Thredbo. 

Nat had booked a nice 3 bed apartment for us all to fit in, brought some amazing fresh fruit and even cooked us burgers! Spent the Arvo doing some chores, shower, sorting food, doing laundry etc and then relaxed before dinner. 

Nice night out and a great Whisky Flamed Wagu Beef to satisfy town food cravings. Still on hiker time so it was early to bed... Short hike out tomorrow, but a bit of climb involved... and a full load of food... 

Hiking - 2026 AAWT - Part 2 - Hotham to Benambra-Corryong Rd

Day 12.5

Finishing all the chores there was not much to do but keep warm behind a heated window. Nice and cozy in Asgaard, just a pity no other hikers (or anyone) to share a yarn with. Had to get rugged up for dinner. Braving the 200m stroll about the same time I would normally be reaching for the sleeping bag. 

Day 13

Awoke to a winter wonderland, which sounds great on paper but not when you're meant to be hiking. Cold slushy snow-ish rain. Fun. It did look pretty though.

Wind was pretty high as well with a "Feels Like" temperature of about -12°c (10°f) and it was set to last the entire day. All things considered Kingo and I thought another day, looking out from heated windows, probably wasn't a bad idea... As our first 2 days out from here weren't massive we could combine them instead.

The windy and slushy conditions lasted all day, so it was probably the right call. Zero days don't have a lot going on, when all your chores are done and there isn't any other hikers to shoot the breeze with. Still. The 200m walk to The Genny for lunch and dinner was cold enough, all rugged up, so heated spaces are coveted.

Day 14

Weather was looking /much/ better today. Still quite a bit of snow around, but not in a cloud/actively snowing, even a little sunshine. Temps were warmer and wind was slightly less. So Andrew and his parents picked me up just before 8 (driving up from Omeo) to take me the ~2km back to the track. 

Got started in some warmer layers but had to strip them off not too long after getting moving and climbing a few small hills. Plenty of slushy ice/snow on the ground but the trail follows Hotham Ski Resort management roads for a while so feet staying dry.

A few km on we turn off onto single track, which was more of a single stream. Snow melt flowing down the narrow path making it hard to avoid... So much for my dry socks... A few km later and we reached Derrick Hut for smoko. Two other hikers (out for a few days) were still packing up after spending the night. Their tent was leaking, which is why they were in the hut. Looking out the window the past 2 days even without a leaky tent, a hut with a warm fire sounds like a good idea...

From there is was down into a valley with the very scenic Dibbins Hut. An old log cabin... maybe in need of a bit of love and care. Mud from the gaps in the logs falling out, a few planks missing from the door... Even with a fire it would be a drafty. Great location though.

From there it was up the other side of the valley and onto the Bogong high plains. Navigation was pretty easy today, just follow the snow poles. We started at 1 this morning and will apparently reach over 1200 before they turn off and we keep going. 

The high plains just seemed to stretch on. Really beautiful walking, but the poles were like one of those ever expanding hallways in a horror movie. The more you walked, the further the poles seemed to stretch off into the distance. It didn't help that half the time the track was very water logged.

Still on the high plains the track got a little drier and we reached Cope Hut. It's only 500m from a parking lot and there was a trio already there when we arrived. We went to setup tents at the camping nearby and killed some time before dinner. 

We decided in the hut out of the wind was a good idea, but without getting the fire going the hut inside was still pretty cold, wind or no wind. Better out of it though I guess. With sun setting, and no sign of wind stopping, I quickly brushed my teeth then hopped straight into my sleeping bag.

Day 15

Awoke at sunrise to a murder of Crows "CAWing" being only 500m from parking must mean there is often a meal nearby for them. It was a very cold night a bit exposed to the wind, managing to sneak under the skirt of the tent. Frost lined the path on the way to the drop toilet.  

Back into my warm sleeping bag to eat breakfast, too cold to be outside the tent. Soon enough it was time to get rolling. A lot of frost already melted, but still plenty to see.

Fairly easy trail this morning single footpad until just past Wallace Hut. From there it was a very gentle downward slope on a management track for the Snowy Hydro Aquaduct. Well maintained and nice flowing crystal clear creek alongside. 

Soon we met a junction and started heading upstream. Though if it wasn't for the water trickling by the opposite direction I don't think I would have even noticed the climb.

We then turned off over a short bridge and got a bit of real climbing back in, up to more peatland area. Big open high plains expanse. Still following the snow poles from yesterday. Spectacular views. Warmer day, with mostly sunny sky above us, but the wind still had me wearing my rain jacket for a bit of protection from the cold. 

We reached a junction, AAWT to the right, Bogong (Vic Highest peak) loop off to the left. Saving a massive 9km of AAWT we took the left fork, adding a paltry extra 23km... It's about the same distance as doing Bogong as an out/back side trip from the other end of the detour. 

Soon after we met a few hikers doing the Bogong loop. The pair doing it over two days might even see us again at the summit tomorrow. From the high plains we weren't that far off the height of Bogong... But a huge valley, with Big River at the bottom was in our way (no matter which direction we took...)

Our day was starting to draw on so we made camp at the bottom of the valley on Big River. Smaller site but more than enough room for two and great water available. Completely protected from the wind, but a bit close to the creek so cool air might settle here overnight. 

Day 16

Waking up to a pretty dewey campsite. A little cool overnight but ok in my bag. I must have stirred a bit in the morning though as I brushed the side of my tent with my sleeping bag so it got a little damp. 

As we camped at the river the first task was a creek crossing. A few heading the other way talked about how it was pretty deep... it made it about 1/3rd up my shin... Anything below knee deep is golden. It was very cold though...

Luckily straight after the river it was onto climbing. Fairly gentle as all things go for the AAWT at first. About 1.5km later we turn up Quartz Ridge to kick up the elevation gain a little. I must be starting to get my trail legs/lungs because it didn't feel as bad as earlier similar climbing. 

I think I expected more Quartz at Quartz Knob, but there were some cool veins in the granite rocks. More up and as soon as we were out of the tree line the cold wind hit us. Very little places to hide until we reached the peak of My Bogong, highest mointain in Vic. An impressive rock cairn provided a modicum of shelter. 

Bit of cloud about but a view off in one diresction, which happened to be where we were heading. Along the ridge and exposed to the cold wind for a while yet.

It felt like a very long time before we started dropping down back under the tree line. Instantaneous relief from the wind as soon as we did. It wasn't too much further to Cleve Cole Hut and our camp for the night. Very fancy hut maintained by the Bogong Alpine Club. 

Lot of features shut off only for members use, but a nice wood stove and good walls to block the wind. A few people doing the Bogong loop so lots of company for dinner. Eight in total enjoying the warmth of the hut for our meal before all retreating to our tents to sleep. 

Day 17

Seemed like a brilliant start to the day from in the tent. I could see the orange glow of the sun shining on it. That was short lived, cloud closed in again and I think my tent was wetter by the time I had finished breakfast and was ready to pack up.

There isn't much else to do but roll up a wet tent and get going. We were quick to reach the turnoff for a side trip down to Howmans Falls. Looked like great falls from the top, but with the way they carved into the rock we couldn't see all of it from our vantage points.

Back to the track and it was only another short stint until we left the Bogong loop to rejoin the AAWT. Immediate difference in track definition, but still a fairly easy to follow footpad. Soon it was back to fallen trees and steep ascent/descent as we made our way over the Long Spur track. We even managed some (short lived) blue skies and views.

The Long Spur eventually turned into a seldom used 4WD track making the walking pretty easy and quick before joining a more substantial forestry road for a while. Then we turned off onto a foot track straight up the side of Mt Wills, 300m climb in just 1.5km. Which was only half way up. Thankfully the rest was a bit more gentle.

We found the fairly nice hut, with a main room and 2 bedrooms (some wooden bunks) and got the fire going. Tents still wet from the morning and cloud getting thicker by the minute we made the call to stay in the hut. When I went outside to relieve myself before bed I could barely see 5m through the cloud... I'll enjoy being out of the wind tonight. 

Day 18

Hut stayed a little warmer overnight but not wanting to deal with hot coals we put the last piece of wood on around 7pm. So by morning it was just 9°c inside. Better than a few degrees cooler outside and in the wind.. Though we actually had some blue sky... Off in the distance. 

The trail kicked off along the various summits of Mt Wills, passing some cool granite boulders. It was still a little windy and I was wearing my gloves, so a bit hard to take lots of pictures. 

The third peak held a Trig Point and also marked the start of some of our descent. Bigger day today, 27km with almost 2000m descent... The AAWT also managed to sneak in 800 odd meters of ascent in this stretch.

The single foot track eventually morphed into a 4WD track before putting us out onto Omeo Highway. Andrews parents are still in the area so they met us there with some trail magic. Fresh fruit and an amazing ham and salad roll, which I wolfed down immediately. Gatorade to rehydrate and then we were ready to be off again.

Before we started off again we met a brother waiting for his sister to finish her final section hike to complete the track. As we were chatting she arrived, with her husband who was hiking this section with her, so we were able to offer our congratulations as we set off. 

Lots more descent into Gil Creek, a fairly clear track with the odd blow down to navigate around and some very steep sections. Gil Creek has a small tent pad, probably a tight squeeze for 2 tents but great water. We had a quick stop but it's a little damp and leeches were about. 

A large tree had fallen onto the track at the crossing. So wet feet then pushing up the steep bank on the other side, through ferns, to rejoin the track. Which wasn't much easier than the ferns. Conner, who was at Mt Wills last night, described the entire stretch as 'clear'.

Clear to follow... I guess. But overgrown with scrub. It didn't help that this is where they squeezed more than half of that 800m of climb. Including a 0.5km stretch with ~150m climb. Very steep, pushing against scrub. Unable to effectivly use trekking poles as they kept getting caught up. I stopped a few times to admire the pretty mushrooms.

After the climb it was a lot more of the down. Mostly back on forestry roads, steep and loose gravel meant careful steps. Down down down down to Four Mile Creek. Then continuing on up and down, for what seemed like a very very long 5km, to eventually reach our camp at Taylors Crossing. Cool bridge. 

A pair of 4WDs turned up not long after us and setup on the opposite side of the river. Before anything else (any tents, swags or awnings) they got a huge fire going. It looked very warm... The sun was soon behind a hill and with the temperature dropping we quickly ate dinner and then headed for our sleeping bags.

Day 19

A planned short day today, only 10km with just under 500m climbing. Started out along a dirt road with cattle farms either side. Nice lush green grass this time of year, cattle must love it. A bit of the climb to begin but relativly gentle and flat meant we cruised along at just over 5kph, so the first 6km fell quickly.

After that it was off onto a single track and up a hill. Followed by a rather sloped trail along the side of the hill heading down. Hard walking as the slant of the trail made it difficult. The descent was very gradual so it took a long time to reach the creek. Great clear flow, but only another 2km to Benambra-Corryong Road where we had food drops to collect. A bit of a steep slog out of the creek but it quickly turned into a pleasant track with nice soft grass underfoot.

Andrews parents, Trevor and Barbara, met us once again with some fantastic fresh food and kept us company for a while to whitle away the afternoon. They were also able to take our food drop buckets away saving the return collection (which is a fair trip from Brisbane.....)

Hiking - 2026 AAWT - Part 1 Walhalla to Hotham

Day 1

My lovely in-laws were my first Track Angels helping me out with a lift up to Walhalla, the start of the AAWT, about 2.5 hours east of Melbourne CBD. Weren't in too much of a rush in the morning as I wasn't planning a long day, getting away not long after 9am. Fairly good roads heading out here and we arrived to enjoy a good bacon and egg roll at a cafe (have to get those last calories in!) With a full belly I said my goodbyes and set off to reach O'Sheas Mill Site for the night.

Sluggish pace to get going with a pack, and belly! full of food. Lucky its only about 14km to camp. 

Nice section of track, but as things "Thru-hiking" go, I already had a diversion. The Poverty Point bridge has been out of action for about 7 years so the official AAWT through this section that is along the eastern side of the Thompson river is closed and having hikers follow the western bank. They have actually recently started work on the bridge though, with expected completion mid this year. So spring hikers should be able to enjoy it when it's done. 

With the work though there is an additional detour straight up the valley. Very steep. Up and over. It was an ok track down the other side to camp where I met 4 car campers. Good fire and left over nachos offered made a good night. I stayed up for 1 round of cards before crashing to sleep.

Day  2

Victorian mountains really turned it up for today. Yesterday saw a little elevation gain, with ups and downs and a fairly easy grade it wasn't too strenuous (except the bridge bypass)... even with the full stomach from a pub meal! Today though had some decent climbing on the books. The plan was a 'short' ~20km to the Camp Saddle campsite... with ~1,350m (4,400ft) of elevation gain. To put that into perspective for a few readers;

• ~1,000m (~3,300 ft) more elevation gain than the Mt Kosciuszko tourist track
• ~470m (~1,540 ft) more if you skip the chair lift and start in Threadbo
• ~200m (~650 ft) more than Mt Barney in SEQ, 
• ~400m (~1,300 ft) more than the Appalachian 'Approach Trail' to Springer Mtn,
• ~1,000m (~3,300 ft) more than the climb out of Hauser Creek,
• ~250m (~820 ft) more than the climb out of Scissors Crossing and, 
• ~80m (260 ft) more than the Mount Whitney summit, from Crabtree Meadows. 
• (The last 3 being on the PCT.)

So, it's a pretty big day, especially with a mostly full food loadout. In the end I pushed a little further making it to Whitelaw hut, an additional ~6k and +200m of elevation gain. Just for funsies. Making it about 50m higher than the climb out of the Grand Canyon Bright Angel trail.

I was knackered. Getting into camp and collecting water just after 6. 

Day 3

Away fairly early headding mostly downhill to Stonarchs camp. Just before i reached it i came across a couple hiking that had camped a few ks past me. I stopped at the camp for a rest, 10km in, and they had a quick chat before continuing on. 

After a short stint on a forestry road the next 2k was a bit more scrubby and overgrown. Occasional blackberry vine scraping across my shins. After that it was back to forestry trails for the rest of the day.... A Vic parks ranger drove past and flagged me down and let me know they were setting up some planned burns, but our track not affected.  

Lots more forestry trails and down down down to Thomson river where i stopped for lunch. Seriously debating stopping here, when the couple, Matthew and Petrea, caught up. They were going to push on which gave me some motivarion. 

Immedietly felt like a mistake. 650m climb over 2.9km, on a gravel road. Steep. Up. Coupious amounts of skittle breaks were had. A bit of a rollercoaster up top and then about 600m back down in another 3km, steep, loose, gravel. Bit of slipping and sliding. Late into camp at 630pm. Tough day. The climbs are pretty tough but the massive descent every day definitely takes its toll too. There's not much call for flatter gradients apparently. 

Water at camp was a little more tricky, a 100m path through a creek bank chocked with blackberry bushes. Luckily it was well tradfiked and fairly clear. To top it off the creek bank was about 700mm high, vertical drop, so i had to jump down into the creek to collect... Lucky I was wearing my dirty socks... 

Day 4

Had about 2km of reprieve of flattish hiking following along the river to Red Jacket site before quickly turning up Mt Victor Spur for another 750m climb. It took a while. With many more skittle breaks. All in scrub so couldnt even stop and say you were admiring the view. At least the first 4km were on a track, not a road. From there it was back onto forestry roads and more up (broken by a little down) until i eventually reached Bobs hut. 

Its a private hut but they allow AAWT hikers to stay in poor weather and also use their tank for water. Very welcome site after the slog from the morning. I rested up inside and contemplated plans. I was scheduled for a 28km day, after 31 yesterday, which was feeling a little daunting after the climb (with more climb and another steep descent to come), so i took extra water to possibly dry camp along the way. 

Managed to get a small amount of service to call home and get some encouragement to push on as they were meeting me for a food drop the next day. Mustering all my will I kept going, heading off down another very very steep, very extreme, 4wd trail. Bits of guards, mud flaps and tyre littred the hill.  

Near on 6pm, about 2/3rds down this massive decline, a SouthBound hiker popped around a corner. Nathan, with a 17 day plan, was headding for Bobs hut, where i left after lunch... 4 hours ago. Quick transfer of info on water sources before I let him continue on. He already had his head torch ready.

Shortly after i arrived at the quite cramped Black River site. Two Andrews hiking together cheerfully greeted me and moved some gear to make space. Conversation with them lifted spirits but it wasnt long before I retreated to my tent.  

Day 5

Can you believe it? Another massive climb in the morning. 800m straight up Mt Shillinglaw in about 5k. Somewhere on that climb (after the first knoll) my phone decided to do a factory reset. Wiping all my pictures (hence none so far for the blog, save one others took when I was dropped off) but more importantly my primary navigation. 

Many people follow the Chapman Book, and i had origonally brought photocopies of his maps, but foolishly let the car campers on night one use them for much needed fire starter... woops...  

Luckily i had already studied the day and it was easy nav so i could easily and safely continue on to Rumpff Saddle. Over the hump of the mountain and it was back onto forestry roads. Stretched on for quite a while on a fairly main trunk but didnt see a single car considering it was Good Friday. Fuel prices might have scared a few off this weekend. 

I then turned onto a lesser logging road- but still fairly good condition. Some recent clearing work done by other campers. Meer moments from reaching the saddle my support crew drove up behind me making that last 10min fly as i knew i had some comforts ahead. 

When i reached camp Andrews were just setting up their tents, so I made sure they knew they were welcome to the fresh fruit as well. For which they were very thankful. I shared with them my phone dilemer and, as we seemed to share a similar daily pace, they offered to let me tag with them. The other option was to drive to the top of Mt Skene to try get service to reinstall necessary apps. 

With the campfire already going and clouds closing in, i didnt feel like leaving the warmth and told them I would love to take them up on their offer. They got to enjoy the fire and a few extra snags. I had one of the best steaks i've ever tasted and a really filling salad. Still tired from the longer days leading up to here I was in bed soon after. 

Day 6

Slower morning with the crew still here. A bit cold, and tents wet from the low cloud. Andrews up under the trees had condensation dropping off the leaves mimiking rain all night. Stoked the fire to get it going before getting tasty Bacon and Egg rolls for breakfast!

Sadly these luxuries wern't to last and we had to eventually set off. Leaving the others to enjoy the camp fire for the rest of the morning. Low cloud still about and back on 4wd tracks all day wasn't inspiring. Astonishingly... yet more climbing. Although and easier day with only 800 or so meters spread across 2 mountain peaks...

Pretty narly 4wd track, as evidenced by the gearbox left behind strapped to a stump, but we still saw 9 vehicles driving it. We climed over a massive downed gum tree, easy 1m in diameter before we reached them (going the other way) but they said they were well prepared with chainsaws and had already cleared some earlier. 

True to their word, the track was a lot clearer and fresh sawdust littered around quite a few logs. Would make for a long day for them... We eventually reached a helipad and took a sharp right down the hill. It was nice to be back on a foot track after all day on a 4wd track. Great big fern leaves leaning over the track, quite a few blow downs to navigate over... could have used those chainsaws...   We also saw 5 other hikers today. 3 heading south, from Tas, and a pair that were heading north but had decided the terrain wasnt for them and had turned back for a lift out from Rumpff Saddle. 

Made it to low saddle, setup tents then ventured the 800 "ish" meters down the road to a creek for water. Could hear a good flow, but not see any water until after a bit of scouting we found the source of the sound. Down a chest deep hole, under a 500mm over hang. Very awkward to collect. Then lugging it back to camp. Just on dark Anna from Adelaide rolled in to join us, high spirited and friendly. Headding south and doing big days. Shes almost done!

Day 7

You might have guessed it by now, but there was yet another big climb today... Mt McDonald. 2km along the 4wd track before shooting off up a spur on an interesting section of track. Razor ridge lining most of the way, folowing along the base of the rock slab. Still steep and hard going, but more enjoyable then the same steepness on a forestry road...

At the top of Mt McDonald i was also able to get reception and start sorting out my phone. I was able to get navigation back and my online itinery. Phew! Mt McDonald is also the first time, this entire hike, there has been a view. 

Along the top over the 3 main peaks of Mt McDonald were some really cool ridges with rock jutting out into the sky. Brilliant views remained for a while before we started to descend and it became scrubby again. 

The track down was a little harder to follow. Criss crossing over the razor back, seemingly at random, and pushing through scrub. Luckily there were plenty of handy rock cairns to lead the way. Some of these steep descents were still slowing me down. 

Out onto the Nobs track we got to a junction needing a decision. The 'easier' water source, 1.4km down a road but fairly gentle, was reportedly dry and the reliable, 2.5km and 400m drop, seemed very far away. Especially luggung it back up... at the end of a big days climb already...  

Luckily while contemplating our choices (which included just camping at the bottom and making tomorrow an even bigger day... ) some more 4wds rolled by and I was able to put on my charm and Yogi some water for us. They were happy to give us as much as we needed, champions! (Though maybe its also because i havent washed in 7 days and smelt like i needed it...) 

With water sorted it was only another few hundred meters to camp up on a knoll near the base of the Nobs. A great relaxing afternoon made even more interesting watching the rolling clouds come over the mountains from three different directions. Temperature rapidly dropped when they got close to us, so we were quick to huddle into our tents. 

Day 8

Just as it was time to begin packing it started raining... luckily by the time i had eaten breakfast in my tent it had stopped. Still some low cloud- and a wet tent to pack- but at least no rain to speak of. It also made for a nice sunrise, with the sillouet of todays route, across the range. 

Got stuck in with an easy 90m climb, most of the way, up the Nob, then 90m back down the left side without reaching the top. I dont think the AAWT has heard of countouring around hills...

Similar total climb to yesterday but spread across the Nobs, High Cone, Square Top and Mt Clear. Of the 4 Square Top and Mt Clear were the slightly longer climbs. Very stiff scrub encompasses the trail on the Square Top plateau, with the misty cloud and morning rain it also meant very wet legs and shoes. Quite scratchy on the shins as well. 

At lunch in the saddle before Mt Clear we finally saw some specs of blue sky, but they were short lived. Still enjoyed good views from Mt Clear before a very steep descent. From the base it was a short 3km to Chesters Yard for camp getting in fairly early arvo, were I still hiking solo i would have defenitely pushed on after collecting water. 

As luck would have it though I didn't because more low cloud came in and some light showers passed when I could safely hide in my warm tent. Later in the afternoon Matthew and Petrea also strolled up and we realised they had only camped a few k short of me each day since our shared night at Blue Jacket.

The rain did starve off long enough to cook dinner outside before the temperature once again quickly had us back in our tents.

Day 9

Heavy rain heard throughout the night didn't inspire confidence in the day ahead. It had mostly eased to light scattered showers by morning and when it was time to leave was just misty low cloud. So not as bad as the night would suggest. 

Along a closed off 4WD track for the first few km this morning. Long wet grass meant shoes were drenched again. Eventually we turned off onto the King Billy peaks. A plesant supprise as the climb up to the first peak had recently been worked on. All the stiff scrubby Bush brush cut back leaving a clear 0.5m track to follow. Still a steepish climb...

Low cloud was obscuring most of the views but occasionally a small break would let you see what we climb for. You follow along the top, drop into a shallow saddle where evidentially the track maintenence didn't reach, then climb peak 2. I got a good-ish view looking back.

Coming back off the other side were a few sections of large wet granite rocks we had to carefully traverse before becoming a much more gentle and plesant trail in amongst the ghost gums. 

The trail pass the junction at the base was much more defined as it now shared a route with the Buller Huts trail. You can see it gets much more use. After descending little more it was time for the next climb up Mt Magdala. The cloud dogging me as I made the final push to the summit closing in as I arrived...

Luckily, after donning the rain jacket to protect from wind, it was a short wait before skies were clearer and we could even see to Mt Buller itself. We went down off the peak to Hellfire Creek camp, a lot more sheltered, for lunch. Matthew and Petrea were there nursing a sore knee, after taking a lower bypass around both climbs. 

While at lunch another 6 rocked up doing the huts trail. Pushing for a long day and looking a little sore already. Eventually it was also time for us to press on up Mt Howitt. Long slog up, meeting a family resting mid way. They were camped at the Macallister Springs hut just the other side of Howitt as a base and doing some day walks. 

Nice prominent survey marker at the top of the mountain! I guess the view was ok too, we finally got lucky with the clouds. 

From there it wasn't long to drop down to a nice spring for clear mountain water. And shortly after for a small semi-sheltered campsite still on the back end of Howitt. Many take the 1.4km side trip to the hut site to camp (they even have a loo) from here, but how often can you camp on a mountain?

While semi-protected the wind still had a bit of chill and I found myself quickly reaching for layers. Not yet needing to put on everything I own (for colder nights ahead...) A bit of time to chill before dinner but hiding in the tents out of the wind before sunset. 

Day 10

Heard a few keen hikers sounding like they were heading for a Howitt sunrise. I thought it was pretty chilly in the morning wind so I had breakfast in my tent. They must have been rugged up! 

We got ready and set off over the Crosscut Saw, an absolutely amazing undulating ridge line. Often small sections only 1-2m wide and a 1000m drop either side. Impossible to capture the reality.

They continued up and down, but no huge climbs, for a while before eventually you start up Mt Buggery. Compared to other climbs we've done it wasn't too much. Down the other side and another climb, slighty longer, up Mt Speculation. Great spot for lunch and to look back over what we had done. 

From there it was only a few short k to the planned water source, a beautiful flowing creek at the aptly named Camp Creek. Loading up with 5, heavy, liters of water so we could dry camp. The plan was the nice, gently downward slope to Catherine saddle... Where we arrived at 2.

The next plan was over Mt Despair... Which certainly lived up to its name with 5kg extra on my back. Over and on in good time the next plan was a campsite listed closer to the Viking. It was a good track off Despair... For a while...

It became a slopey rocky overgrown scrub soon after. Branches holding you back every step, our pace slowed to about 1km per hour... The 'campsite' (if we ever saw the real one) looked as if you could barely fit half a tent. So no choice but to push on to Viking Saddle. 

Trees blown down everywhere. Must have clambered over, under or around more than a hundred (underestimating) trees. Slowing pace once more. The picture really doesn't do justice to the amount of trees we had to manage. 

We finally broke through to a surprisingly clear saddle around 530pm. At least 1.5 hours later than expected based on distance... Quick dinner as the sun was already behind a hill and wind starting to chill to the bone. It was good to push to here though, as there's a big climb in the morning and getting here after goong through what we just did would have made it all the harder. 

We also got a few weather updates and poor conditions for next 3 days being likely, it was good to have a few spare km in the bank.

Day 11

Proper rain through the night that seemed to continue through morning. A large tree fell down somewhere, probably over the trail. Camp looked fairly clear last arvo setting up, seems outside of where it looked like a long past fire had damaged leading to the sheer amount of fallen trees. 

Had a little window of just light shower to pack the tent away and get going. 360m climb in 1.1km up the famous Viking. Seemed to go ok in the morning, wouldn't want to deal with this after slogging through those trees the few k leading into the saddle... Track had very little in the way of obsticals ... Even the rain had stopped.

Then we reached the main attraction, The Chimney. A short maybe 3m vertical climb with limited space. Too thin for me and the pack, but a handy rope installed to tie it off then pull it up. 

Up top we were able to hide out of the wind and enjoy a small break. No sun to speak of, but at least no rain either. There was a nice few hundred meters along the ridge before a Steep steep steep down the other side. Rain started again, loose leaf litter, clay soil, slippery fun time... 

Up and down the Viking we averaged just under 1km per hour. Slow going. Rain settled in and walking through ferns dripping wet made me miss those fire trails I hated so much a few days ago. Those thoughts were answered when we hit Barry Saddle.

A recent fire affected the area here and they have recently bulldozed the track, fairly clear walking for a while before we shot off onto a dissued old 4wd track and back into ferns. Fire must have chased off all the other animals leaving only us stupid hikers as food for the leaches. They were loving this rain and also apparently my legs... 

We reached East Riley Rd tank around 3pm to grab water and start looking for a camp. There are many installed tanks in this stretch as its known as the "Dry Barrys" with unreliable or hard to reach water sources resulting in dehydrated hikers. Bit ironic that we've copped it with at least 25mm of rain... and more to come tomorrow.

As a result of the fire break work, pushing a bunch of trees over, it seems every flat spot had a tree pushed onto it or deep bulldozer tracks through it. Eventually we conceeded and setup on a flat, mostly clear, section right on the side of the fire track. Probably my worst 'campsite' ever. At least it was out of the wind... 

Still dreched I hopped into my tent, which was immediately warmer out of the wind. A quick wetwipe bath to get the mud and blood (from the leeches I got too late) off the legs before putting on thermals and getting bed stuff sorted. All kept dry by my packliner, but still some water in the tent as as result of me. 

Rain continued, so it was snacks for dinner (no need to cook in tent vestibule) Warm in my bag, but a long wait before bed time...

Day 12

Heavy absolutely pelting rain through the night at times. However again we lucked out, kind of, and only had to deal with misty showers in the morning. We packed up and set off with 3 plans, depending on what the day brought.

Continue on 5km to Selwyn Water tank, collect water, hike another 10 or so and look for a camp. Hike ~24 to the Twins Tank/Camping or push for Hotham @ ~29 k. With the wind still howling at Selwyn (a mountain I actually remember driving up on a 4wd trip many years ago) and not wanting to lug water to camp, we all determined Hotham was our best bet.

Not only a long distance today, but an absolute heck of a lot of elevation gain/loss. Following the crest of the Great Dividing Range were were up or down, with very little flat. The track follows on and off some 4wd tracks and with the thought of more leeches on the single over grown track we did continue on some of those clearer tracks. Adding a little distance but also reducing some climbing and mostly avoiding leeches. 

Impossible to find a spot out of the chilling wind to rest, what breaks we had were short lived. Too cold to stay put. Extra wear on the feet not being able to rest them, with wet socks, and motivated walking, I got my first hot spots of the trip. 

Around 515pm we made the final ascent over Mt St Bernard (which was an untypically gentle slope) and made it to the Great Alpine Road. Still technically another 7km of walking, mostly along the shoulder of a windy mountain road with warnings plastered everywhere about the slippery road surface....

Very luckily Kingo's parents were in the area as a bit of track support for them and was able to give us a lift into Hotham. Immediate relief getting in the car, out of the wind. They dropped me at Hotham, where I had accom booked, and continued down the mountain to Omeo where his parents were staying. 

I quickely changed into my absolute cleanest and warmest clothes, shoved the rest of my gear in the drying room, and waddled the short 200m in crocs to 'The General' for dinner. About 2 dozen other people in for dinner, tourists and some local workers. Couldn't spot any other hikers.

After a fantastic Parmi I grabbed some breakfast supplies and went back to Asgaard ski lodge to start sorting some gear. Pulled out contents of pack and sprawled them around the drying room, put electronics on charge, had a really great shower, then passed out in a super comfortable bed in a warm heated room. 

Day 13

Managed to sleep in to the very late 6am... Still kinda dark outside... But looking at the weather report happy to be wrapped in a blanket.

Bacon and eggs for breakfast before it was time for more chores. Laundry (after first pre washing socks) high on the list as well as resting with my feet up. Eventually I'll also have to grab my resupply package from the post office and sort food for the next stretch.

Limited resupply options at the very little store so I am very glad I sent a box here. (Some other hikers also venture into Falls Creek, a 14km return hike about 30k further on) for a larger town to resupply from. 

Probably head back to The General for dinner as well... Good to load up on calories when in town ;) Looking cold and windy for a few days, so might as well step out into it tomorrow...