Sailing - 2025 07 - Whitsundays Islands

 

 

Kicking off from the end of our Hamilton Island stay we set off sailing!

Great weather, but not enough wind for sailing so we motored around. We were looking to grab a mooring at Chalkies, a nice beach directly opposite the famous Whitehaven beach. Unfortunately another boat pulled up to the last one just as we were arriving.

Kristie and Jeremy had some boat friends around the corner about an hour away, in Tongue Bay, and they were able to let us know there were plenty of moorings spare. After hooking up there we did a short walk up to a lookout and down to the northern end of Whitehaven Beach for sunset drinks. A fairly high tide hid most of the famous swirling white sand banks, but it was still a nice spot. Back to Lazuli for dinner and fairly early to bed. 

Sat morning a few of us did the lookout walk again and with a lower tide the sandbanks were a lot more visible, the kind of shot fit for a postcard (see heading picture.) Back to the boat and the wind had picked up a little, but not too bad. Tucked in behind the headland at the southern end of Whitehaven for lunch before hopping on shore. The girls went in for a swim as I headed up to the lookout. Quite a few tourist boats out, so the beach near the walk entrance was fairly crowded. Nice lookout again, and it seems most don't bother with the massive ~2km distance, so not too busy which was nice.

Arrived back on shore to see Kristie and Jeremy already packing up the beach, good timing to head back to Lazuli. Soon off to check Chalkies moorings (there's a friendly Turtle there) but they were all full again so we set off to tuck in behind Border Island in Cateran Bay.

Sunset sips and dips on the boat for us today. As we were enjoying them a tender from a tourist boat motored by, but then stopped in front of us. I mentioned that seemed a bit weird, nothing to see there, so we investigated and found out they were paddling. Luckily wind was in their favour and it wasn't too hard to paddle for steering. They also had another load to pick up on shore, we had offered to help transfer people but it turns out the reason their engine stopped was because they forgot to refill their fuel tank...  

A little bit windy and rocky tonight. The wind seems to shoot over the saddle and hit us. Wasn't too bad though but I was soon into bed. 

Sunday we were off for a short walk to the saddle. MUCH windier on top at the lookout. Clear blue skies with the sun shining brightly so it felt warm enough for a snorkel. Along the wall of the bay was nice, though even in the 5mm wetsuit I started to get cold... loads of fish life but not much in the way of more exciting critters. Emma was able to show off her awesome free diving skills and give old uncle Scott a few pointers. 

 

After getting back to the boat and getting warm we set off for the top of Hook Island. A bit more wind today so we raised the head sail and were cruising along about 5kt, not a huge wind so not super fast but fairly comfortable. We were lucky to see lots of whale spouts on the trip over. At least 7 different groups. Two of the groups were fairly close, but they weren't sticking around to play/breach so hard to get a good photo.  

 A few bays around Hook Point were busy but we ended up in Luncheon Bay mostly protected from the wind but still getting a lot of swell wrapping around the headland. There was also a "Under 35's" tourist boat here with quite loud doof doof music. Despite the scenery being pretty nice, considering the music and swell, we decided to jump one bay over to Butterfly Bay to pull up for the night. Still a touch of swell but definitely better.

Rocked and rolled a bit over night and wasn't the best sleep but woke up fairly refreshed. Spotting some whales far off in the distance.

Tendered around to Manta Ray Bay for a good snorkel. They have some Manta Statues there and the girls (with a bit of assistance from dad) were able to free dive down and touch them. After seeing how it was done, Emma even managed a solo trip to touch them! Plenty of fish about including some huge GTs and a large Bull Mauri Wrasse. 

 We then took Lazuli around to Stonehaven Bay and tucked in right behind a nice finger of reef. It was very tempting to jump in for a second snorkel, but we were dry and warm so spent the afternoon lazing about on deck. Wind was meant to be dropping off but every now and then there was a pretty big gust which flapped about everything we had drying. The wind held the same pattern overnight making for a pretty broken sleep and a rocky boat.

Tuesday morning meant a 30min trip over to Black Island to drop in for a dive. Kristie and I went along the eastern wall, in the channel. Heaps of nudi and a cool flat worm on the dive with an abundance of fish and some pretty healthy coral. No Eels, Sharks or Octopuses etc but still plenty to see along the wall and some colourful nudi made it a good dive.

 

When we were finished with the dive the others joined us and one after the other Kristie took the girls for a quick dive. While that was happening the rest of us had a good snorkel before finding ourselves heading into shore. Apparently Haymen run an 'exclusive private island' tour here, for quite the pretty penny, so it's nice to experience the luxury for free!

After lunch we motored around to Nara Inlet for a very sheltered last night. On the journey we had a somewhat curious dolphin cruise past us then turn to follow us for a bit. We slowed down and it stuck with us a little before veering off towards another boat to check out.  

For Nara we did have to prepare for the mosquito's though. Close enough to land and lack of wind meant they found us pretty quickly. Before sunset we hopped to shore for a short stroll to some Indigenous rock art which was cool to see. For sunset drinks we putted over to 'Exhale', a catamaran, who are friends that Kristie and Jeremy have met on their sailing trip. Nice net with beanbags at the front to enjoy some cheese and a nice drop of scotch. We even had a turtle come visit just off the bow.

Wednesday being our last morning we had a lazy sleep in before heading back to the marina we went for one last adventure to some close by caves for a little bit more climbing and exploring. I also managed to sneak in a short Paddle Board.  

 

Soon though, it was time to head back, Lazuli had the night booked so we had a spot waiting. First up was heading to the fuel dock though to refuel before parking up for the night. Tying off lines and casting off again is a skill well practised by Kristie and Jeremy but new to me, seemed to manage on. When it was time to head to our assigned berth though we ran into a little trouble... and apparently a lot of silt... bottomed out. It was a neap low tide (very low tide) and the berth we had assigned was a touch too shallow for the deeper 2.3m draft of Lazuli... So change of plans and they popped us over on a different berth... with a few multi-million dollar yacht's The one adjacent to us, Lumir is hired out for $140,000 a week... and that doesn't even include fuel, food, drinks etc...

Before we could soak up the luxury too much we did have some of the less glamorous boat jobs to complete, empty rubbish bins (including contents of a composting toilet), fill water tanks etc etc. Jeremy also swabbed the decks (I'm getting my sail lingo down pat!) There was land chores as well, shopping/Bunnings, BCF run etc. We had the car up here so Kristie was able to use it to make the running about a little easier. There was scant time in the afternoon to relax before it was time to stroll into Airlie for dinner. Bet Jeremy enjoyed the break from cooking :p

One last sleep on Lazuli, and I swear even in the Marnia I rolled around all night. Almost as if the small wash from other boats, being sharper and less rhythmic than ocean waves, affected me worse than the more symmetrical ocean swell... Work in the morning for a rather quick pack and our final goodbyes before setting off on the ~14 hours drive back to Brisbane. 

No real traffic hold ups, though we did have to stop once for a Sugar Cane train (say that 10 times fast) to roll past before continuing on. Bu lunch we had already passed Rocky and were making decent time... but decided that a 1030pm ETA home was a bit late and decided to pull up stumps at Gin Gin. The Hotel had one Queen room left for a pretty reasonable price ($89, shared bathroom) and the Bistro did a pretty good steak. Though they also though for some reason we wanted a "Family" pizza as a second meal... so we had a bit of vegetarian pizza left over... 

With just over 4 hours of driving left we weren't in a huge rush, no point hitting peak hour traffic getting through Brisbane but I was also keen to get home and unpack so we didn't really dawdle either... Some road works slowing us down and light traffic just north of Brisbane saw us home just after lunch... so the unpacking, loads of washing, and house chores could get started... Post holiday fun, yay! 

A fantastic trip, even as a non-boatie, thanks to the Ford family for inviting us into your home for a few short days, and I hope you get the good weather next week you are expecting to allow you to some of the outer reefs!

Travel - 2025 07 - Hamilton Island

Slow pack during the week to get everything ready. Picking and choosing what makes the cut. Enough to be comfortable, but selective enough with limited space in mind.  

As we were mostly ready the day before on Friday we were able to make a quick getaway after work but it didn't matter as we still got stuck, along with thousands of others that had the same idea, in the north bound traffic. It didn't really clear until we were north of the Mooloolaba turn off... The plan was Gin Gin tonight but after a few calls, and booked out places we looked at the time and revised it to Childers. A quick stop for some food near Gympie before continuing on to a nice motel just as we entered town.

Saturday began the bigger drive. On the move just after 630 and through to the other side of Gin Gin for a quick breakfast. We made Rocky for the next stop but on the lookout for a good, not busy, servo to pull into we ended up driving straight through! We did find an OK Independent fuel about 20min north, cheaper fuel than a few we spied in Rocky but their pie selection was pretty horrible... and I saw the Chef wipe his nose onto his jumper sleeve so didn't feel like getting something made. A rather disappointing pie for lunch...

After this refuel I actually took a break from driving... it's a little more work without small luxuries like cruise control! I lasted about 2 hours before getting back behind the wheel. Another 2 hours and we were pulling into Airlie Beach. Quick stop at the shops for tonight's dinner, then a drive through town. Another tourist in front of us, unsure of their journey plans, stopped mid way around a roundabout... welcome to tourist towns... 

Whitsundays BnB retreat, in the hills just above Airlie, was a nice cosy place with a really nice garden. A pair of white cockatoos greeted us as we found our room and discovered the Spa was out of action... apparently they switched chlorine brands and read X amount of teaspoons as tablespoons... as we didn't feel like getting chemical burns at the start of the trip. Room was nice with plenty of space for 2, shared bathroom 5m down a courtyard path, but we didn't see other guests or clash when needing it. Pokey kitchen but more than enough for our needs.

 

 

Sunday was off to a good start with a fairly simple breakfast. Turkish bread, jam, butter, vegemite and pancakes supplied! Where our ferry launched was about 2km from the best long term parking (ferry has some, but 7 day max wasn't enough for us) so we went off a little early. There was meant to be a translink public transport bus with good timing, but apparently the Brisbane metro changes (1,200km away) have affected the timetables up here too... Bus was a no show. 

Never mind, plenty of time to spare. Ken picked us up in his taxi and it was a short trip to the ferry terminal. Probably worked out easier with our gear anyway. Apparently too early to have a beer while waiting for the boat with service not starting until 10am, pfft we're on holidays! You can have a beer before catching a plane... 1.5 hour boat ride via Daydream (possibly enjoying a beer on board...) and we were finally on Hamilton.

Fairly smooth ride over with the quick stop at Daydream for a few people to transfer. We ended up at the Marina jetty (at the suggestion of staff this morning) but it turns out our specific accommodation check in was at the airport jetty... not to worry as they soon had a transfer shuttle on the way and picked us up. Apartment wasn't ready but we were able to set off with our golf buggy so we headed by the water and had some lunch. 

Afternoon was checking in and getting orientated at the apartment before heading down to the island IGA. Everyone had the same idea it seems. It. Was. PACKED! Long line and busy but we eventually got some food and went back to the apartment for a quiet dinner.

 

 

Monday was time for activities, after a generous sleep in of course! First up was a trip to Catseye Beach. Nice spot. We arrived around 930 am to a moderately busy area, but still plenty of beach lounges to claim. After enjoying the sun we jumped in for a snorkel... not a whole lot to see. Quite a bit of dead coral, crushed under the feet of thousands of tourists. 

A bit of kelp and small patches of coral still alive though, and after about 45min in the water we managed to find a turtle! Very chill, pretty accustomed to tourists I guess... we followed along slowly as he drifted about before feeling the cold and needing to get out.

 

 

Back on the beach and it was a lot more crowded, I guess everyone else had an even longer sleep in... There were ~20-30min wait lines for the hire gear (Stand Up Paddle Boards / Kayaks) every lounge was taken and plenty of people on their towels. Tourists in the little catamarans darting about, not knowing how to steer and some just ramming into the beach... I have no-idea how there wasn't any accidents... but the staff in the Zodiac buzzing around helping some and telling others off (so many people outside the marker buoys) was a very very busy lad. When witnessing all this the family next to us (not the "Instagram" couple on the other side taking 1,000 photos) were having a conversation and the husband turned to the wife and said "This is heaven." A crowded loud tourist beach, and people operating machines they were definitely unfit for? Closer to my idea of hell...

 

After warming back up in the sun it was back to the apartment for lunch and then off for a short hike. It turned out the short hike (2km return) was closed... that we didn't see until the turn off 600m into the Hike... so we settled on a 5k return hike to Middle Head instead. Following a few management trails up the hill to be rewarded with a great view.

 

Back down was a bit easier. Getting around the rest of the island is a lot easier with the golf buggy. Would make it quite a bit longer hike without it. It was getting a little late so we headed up to 'One Tree Hill' for sunset views, with half of the rest of the islands habitants.... spectacular views though. Another quiet dinner in the apartment and early to bed. 

 

 

Tuesday was the day for the "big" walk around the vegetated half of the island. A loop of all the main hiking trails including the highest peak, giant chair, hammock, swing and resort lookouts. A few trail runners already out and about when we were starting, pretty keen... especially those finishing just as we started.

First up was Passage Peak, the highest point on the island, a few people about but not too crowded and some spectacular views. The last section just before the peak involves a lot of steps, so be warned.

 

 

After the turn off for some of the longer trails it felt a bit more isolated. First stop was a very Instagram worth comically large chair. Then off to a very uncomfortable kopper log hammock before finally reaching the swing, where I relented to peer pressure and got my own Instagram worth pose photo. Each bay was really beautiful and you could kill a day just relaxing on the beach.

 

 

We were having some snacks near the swing when we heard the rumble of an ATV tour group descending down the hill. Six ATVs arrived (1 guide and 5 following) which signalled our time to depart. Very steep exit from the beach straight up the hill. Often passing other tourists carefully descending, in sandals, trying not to slip on the gravel.

Eventually we reached the second highest point, the resort lookout, before heading back down via another small side trail to the Flat Top hill lookout. More steep trails down (a different way than we went up) and groups starting just after midday without any water in hand... 

When we checked in we asked the staff about the walks and were told "for the full loop you definitely need the full day, at least 8-6, plan to be back late!" The minimum '10 hours' was done (with the additional lookout) in 5 hours and 3 minutes... and that included 30min for lunch at the swing and time enjoying the lookouts... 

After we got back we had a rinse off and headed to the resort pool with the intention of being typical tourists ourselves and using the swim up bar. One toe in the pool water and I knew it was going to be a struggle, but I plunged in... and it almost took my breath away. After my partner put her foot in the water we decided maybe just staying on the sun lounges was enough. We still wanted a fancy cocktail... at 25 bucks a pop, but how often are you in a place like this...? (Once is probably enough for me.) I have to admit that they were pretty tasty though. Back to the apartment to enjoy the sunset from our balcony. Can't quite see the actual sun, but still get nice colours in the sky.

 

 

We decided to have a relaxing Wednesday, long sleep in before taking the golf buggy for a cruise around checking out some of the developed half of the island. In our travels we confirmed a few logistics for pick up day, stopping by the Marina office to work out which Finger Lazuli would berth at etc.

We also arranged a later return for the buggy, so we could have it to use for Marina chores if needed when Lazuli arrived. Back to the apartment for the afternoon we lounged on the balcony enjoying the view. About 4pm a pair of Whales came into view. Really far off at first but we could see some huge breaches. By the time they were a bit closer for a picture (still about 1km away) they had finished playing and were just sailing on by.

A little while later we headed out for dinner (other dinners we just made in the apartment) at 'The Palms'. Very busy but we managed to arrive just as a young family were leaving and got a table. We saw others come and wait for a long time before there was space.

Great Brisket from the smoker, though not sure it was the full 300g as advertised. My partner got the roasted eggplant, a full intact eggplant rather than the grilled sliced eggplant you normally find. Apparently it was very tasty. We also had 2 sides each which were fantastic. Chat potato's, tomato salad and really nice garlic bread. The only slightly disappointing one was the fries, which must have been sitting a while, still warm... but not hot. 

I'm a little surprised by the stars out here, though the full moon doesn't help. Lots of light pollution from the resort too I guess. We've noticed a bit of noise pollution too this trip. With the buggies they have a constant reversing alarm, when in reverse gear. People take a lot of time reversing (it did take a sec to get use too) but they also put it in reverse waiting to pull out... even when there's a bunch of traffic... so they just sit there going "BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ" for ages. Three active areas of construction probably don't help either.

Various areas of the resorts have music pumping, which we can still hear clearly on the balcony. I don't mind the noise for happy/excited kids splashing and jumping into the water, that's expected. Kids having fun is loud, but some adults, especially with their sunset/post sunset drinks with friends on the balcony, could afford to turn it down a notch.

Thursday morning we were up a little early to catch the low tide. Water temp was a bit cold and we didn't feel like another snorkel, but a reef walk seemed like a good idea. Nice flat reef shelf so I thought we would see a bit... we did not. 

A lot of crushed coral, thousands of tourists a year wouldn't help, with only fairly shallow rock pools. Heaps of little Crabs dashing about but not too much else. We managed to find a few small Giant Clams but no Sea Hares, Nudi, Epelept Sharks or Octopus. Some Cucumbers about, but nothing compared to Musgrave. The walk was saved though as we stumbled across a cool decorator crab. Not seen one like this before, can you spot it?  

 

The afternoon was spent mostly relaxing again before consolidation of gear to make packing and check out easier in the morning. It's quite amazing how much things cam spread out in just 5 days...

We headed out to the Marina lookout to catch the sunset. The view isn't as good as from One Tree Hill (and no bar here) but it was a lot less crowded. Dinner at the apartment again before heading to bed.

Friday morning was time to check out. Bags packed and ready for an 8am pickup... but we weren't in a rush so we hung around alirtle finally leaving the apartment at 945. Handed our room keys in, but requested an extension to the buggy time (which was kindly granted and is free!)  

We cruised up to a good lookout of the Marina to await our ride (Kristie and Jeremy picking up on Lazuli, their 47.7' 2001 Beneteau First, yacht) we could follow them on the tracker and were ready to take pictures when they arrived.

 

 

Took Kristina and Emma for a spin on the golf buggy as Kristie did some shopping and Jeremy did some boat jobs. Just up to a lookout, then back via the bakery. Few pies and Saussage rolls, but the girls had already eaten lunch so they picked up some cupcakes as a treat. 

 

Then we set off to return the buggy and collect our bags... they hadn't collected them from the rooms yet... so they sent someone off to collect them. I had a mild panic when we eventually got the bags, as I thought my wallet was in there... but I couldn't find it. 

They were very helpful and sent another worker to have a look and thankfully found it, phew! With bags (and wallet) collected it was time to set off on Lazui for part 2 of our trip!