Day 1
My lovely in-laws were my first Track Angels helping me out with a lift up to Walhalla, the start of the AAWT, about 2.5 hours east of Melbourne CBD. Weren't in too much of a rush in the morning as I wasn't planning a long day, getting away not long after 9am. Fairly good roads heading out here and we arrived to enjoy a good bacon and egg roll at a cafe (have to get those last calories in!) With a full belly I said my goodbyes and set off to reach O'Sheas Mill Site for the night.
Sluggish pace to get going with a pack, and belly! full of food. Lucky its only about 14km to camp.
Nice section of track, but as things "Thru-hiking" go, I already had a diversion. The Poverty Point bridge has been out of action for about 7 years so the official AAWT through this section that is along the eastern side of the Thompson river is closed and having hikers follow the western bank. They have actually recently started work on the bridge though, with expected completion mid this year. So spring hikers should be able to enjoy it when it's done.
With the work though there is an additional detour straight up the valley. Very steep. Up and over. It was an ok track down the other side to camp where I met 4 car campers. Good fire and left over nachos offered made a good night. I stayed up for 1 round of cards before crashing to sleep.
Day 2
Victorian mountains really turned it up for today. Yesterday saw a little elevation gain, with ups and downs and a fairly easy grade it wasn't too strenuous (except the bridge bypass)... even with the full stomach from a pub meal! Today though had some decent climbing on the books. The plan was a 'short' ~20km to the Camp Saddle campsite... with ~1,350m (4,400ft) of elevation gain. To put that into perspective for a few readers;
- ~1,000m (~3,300 ft) more elevation gain than the Mt Kosciuszko tourist track
- ~470m (~1,540 ft) more if you skip the chair lift and start in Threadbo
- ~200m (~650 ft) more than Mt Barney in SEQ,
- ~400m (~1,300 ft) more than the Appalachian 'Approach Trail' to Springer Mtn,
- ~1,000m (~3,300 ft) more than the climb out of Hauser Creek,
- ~250m (~820 ft) more than the climb out of Scissors Crossing and,
- ~80m (260 ft) more than the Mount Whitney summit, from Crabtree Meadows.
- (The last 3 being on the PCT.)
So, it's a pretty big day, especially with a mostly full food loadout. In the end I pushed a little further making it to Whitelaw hut, an additional ~6k and +200m of elevation gain. Just for funsies. Making it about 50m higher than the climb out of the Grand Canyon Bright Angel trail.
I was knackered. Getting into camp and collecting water just after 6.
Day 3
Away fairly early headding mostly downhill to Stonarchs camp. Just before i reached it i came across a couple hiking that had camped a few ks past me. I stopped at the camp for a rest, 10km in, and they had a quick chat before continuing on.
After a short stint on a forestry road the next 2k was a bit more scrubby and overgrown. Occasional blackberry vine scraping across my shins. After that it was back to forestry trails for the rest of the day.... A Vic parks ranger drove past and flagged me down and let me know they were setting up some planned burns, but our track not affected.
Lots more forestry trails and down down down to Thomson river where i stopped for lunch. Seriously debating stopping here, when the couple, Matthew and Petrea, caught up. They were going to push on which gave me some motivarion.
Immedietly felt like a mistake. 650m climb over 2.9km, on a gravel road. Steep. Up. Coupious amounts of skittle breaks were had. A bit of a rollercoaster up top and then about 600m back down in another 3km, steep, loose, gravel. Bit of slipping and sliding. Late into camp at 630pm. Tough day. The climbs are pretty tough but the massive descent every day definitely takes its toll too. There's not much call for flatter gradients apparently.
Water at camp was a little more tricky, a 100m path through a creek bank chocked with blackberry bushes. Luckily it was well tradfiked and fairly clear. To top it off the creek bank was about 700mm high, vertical drop, so i had to jump down into the creek to collect... Lucky I was wearing my dirty socks...
Day 4
Had about 2km of reprieve of flattish hiking following along the river to Red Jacket site before quickly turning up Mt Victor Spur for another 750m climb. It took a while. With many more skittle breaks. All in scrub so couldnt even stop and say you were admiring the view. At least the first 4km were on a track, not a road. From there it was back onto forestry roads and more up (broken by a little down) until i eventually reached Bobs hut.
Its a private hut but they allow AAWT hikers to stay in poor weather and also use their tank for water. Very welcome site after the slog from the morning. I rested up inside and contemplated plans. I was scheduled for a 28km day, after 31 yesterday, which was feeling a little daunting after the climb (with more climb and another steep descent to come), so i took extra water to possibly dry camp along the way.
Managed to get a small amount of service to call home and get some encouragement to push on as they were meeting me for a food drop the next day. Mustering all my will I kept going, heading off down another very very steep, very extreme, 4wd trail. Bits of guards, mud flaps and tyre littred the hill.
Near on 6pm, about 2/3rds down this massive decline, a SouthBound hiker popped around a corner. Nathan, with a 17 day plan, was headding for Bobs hut, where i left after lunch... 4 hours ago. Quick transfer of info on water sources before I let him continue on. He already had his head torch ready.
Shortly after i arrived at the quite cramped Black River site. Two Andrews hiking together cheerfully greeted me and moved some gear to make space. Conversation with them lifted spirits but it wasnt long before I retreated to my tent.
Day 5
Can you believe it? Another massive climb in the morning. 800m straight up Mt Shillinglaw in about 5k. Somewhere on that climb (after the first knoll) my phone decided to do a factory reset. Wiping all my pictures (hence none so far for the blog, save one others took when I was dropped off) but more importantly my primary navigation.
Many people follow the Chapman Book, and i had origonally brought photocopies of his maps, but foolishly let the car campers on night one use them for much needed fire starter... woops...
Luckily i had already studied the day and it was easy nav so i could easily and safely continue on to Rumpff Saddle. Over the hump of the mountain and it was back onto forestry roads. Stretched on for quite a while on a fairly main trunk but didnt see a single car considering it was Good Friday. Fuel prices might have scared a few off this weekend.
I then turned onto a lesser logging road- but still fairly good condition. Some recent clearing work done by other campers. Meer moments from reaching the saddle my support crew drove up behind me making that last 10min fly as i knew i had some comforts ahead.
When i reached camp Andrews were just setting up their tents, so I made sure they knew they were welcome to the fresh fruit as well. For which they were very thankful. I shared with them my phone dilemer and, as we seemed to share a similar daily pace, they offered to let me tag with them. The other option was to drive to the top of Mt Skene to try get service to reinstall necessary apps.
With the campfire already going and clouds closing in, i didnt feel like leaving the warmth and told them I would love to take them up on their offer. They got to enjoy the fire and a few extra snags. I had one of the best steaks i've ever tasted and a really filling salad. Still tired from the longer days leading up to here I was in bed soon after.
Day 6
Slower morning with the crew still here. A bit cold, and tents wet from the low cloud. Andrews up under the trees had condensation dropping off the leaves mimiking rain all night. Stoked the fire to get it going before getting tasty Bacon and Egg rolls for breakfast!
Sadly these luxuries wern't to last and we had to eventually set off. Leaving the others to enjoy the camp fire for the rest of the morning. Low cloud still about and back on 4wd tracks all day wasn't inspiring. Astonishingly... yet more climbing. Although and easier day with only 800 or so meters spread across 2 mountain peaks...
Pretty narly 4wd track, as evidenced by the gearbox left behind strapped to a stump, but we still saw 9 vehicles driving it. We climed over a massive downed gum tree, easy 1m in diameter before we reached them (going the other way) but they said they were well prepared with chainsaws and had already cleared some earlier.
True to their word, the track was a lot clearer and fresh sawdust littered around quite a few logs. Would make for a long day for them... We eventually reached a helipad and took a sharp right down the hill. It was nice to be back on a foot track after all day on a 4wd track. Great big fern leaves leaning over the track, quite a few blow downs to navigate over... could have used those chainsaws... We also saw 5 other hikers today. 3 heading south, from Tas, and a pair that were heading north but had decided the terrain wasnt for them and had turned back for a lift out from Rumpff Saddle.
Made it to low saddle, setup tents then ventured the 800 "ish" meters down the road to a creek for water. Could hear a good flow, but not see any water until after a bit of scouting we found the source of the sound. Down a chest deep hole, under a 500mm over hang. Very awkward to collect. Then lugging it back to camp. Just on dark Anna from Adelaide rolled in to join us, high spirited and friendly. Headding south and doing big days. Shes almost done!
Day 7
You might have guessed it by now, but there was yet another big climb today... Mt McDonald. 2km along the 4wd track before shooting off up a spur on an interesting section of track. Razor ridge lining most of the way, folowing along the base of the rock slab. Still steep and hard going, but more enjoyable then the same steepness on a forestry road...
At the top of Mt McDonald i was also able to get reception and start sorting out my phone. I was able to get navigation back and my online itinery. Phew! Mt McDonald is also the first time, this entire hike, there has been a view.
Along the top over the 3 main peaks of Mt McDonald were some really cool ridges with rock jutting out into the sky. Brilliant views remained for a while before we started to descend and it became scrubby again.
The track down was a little harder to follow. Criss crossing over the razor back, seemingly at random, and pushing through scrub. Luckily there were plenty of handy rock cairns to lead the way. Some of these steep descents were still slowing me down.
Out onto the Nobs track we got to a junction needing a decision. The 'easier' water source, 1.4km down a road but fairly gentle, was reportedly dry and the reliable, 2.5km and 400m drop, seemed very far away. Especially luggung it back up... at the end of a big days climb already...
Luckily while contemplating our choices (which included just camping at the bottom and making tomorrow an even bigger day... ) some more 4wds rolled by and I was able to put on my charm and Yogi some water for us. They were happy to give us as much as we needed, champions! (Though maybe its also because i havent washed in 7 days and smelt like i needed it...)
With water sorted it was only another few hundred meters to camp up on a knoll near the base of the Nobs. A great relaxing afternoon made even more interesting watching the rolling clouds come over the mountains from three different directions. Temperature rapidly dropped when they got close to us, so we were quick to huddle into our tents.
Day 8
Just as it was time to begin packing it started raining... luckily by the time i had eaten breakfast in my tent it had stopped. Still some low cloud- and a wet tent to pack- but at least no rain to speak of. It also made for a nice sunrise, with the sillouet of todays route, across the range.
Got stuck in with an easy 90m climb, most of the way, up the Nob, then 90m back down the left side without reaching the top. I dont think the AAWT has heard of countouring around hills...
Similar total climb to yesterday but spread across the Nobs, High Cone, Square Top and Mt Clear. Of the 4 Square Top and Mt Clear were the slightly longer climbs. Very stiff scrub encompasses the trail on the Square Top plateau, with the misty cloud and morning rain it also meant very wet legs and shoes. Quite scratchy on the shins as well.
At lunch in the saddle before Mt Clear we finally saw some specs of blue sky, but they were short lived. Still enjoyed good views from Mt Clear before a very steep descent. From the base it was a short 3km to Chesters Yard for camp getting in fairly early arvo, were I still hiking solo i would have defenitely pushed on after collecting water.
As luck would have it though I didn't because more low cloud came in and some light showers passed when I could safely hide in my warm tent. Later in the afternoon Matthew and Petrea also strolled up and we realised they had only camped a few k short of me each day since our shared night at Blue Jacket.
The rain did starve off long enough to cook dinner outside before the temperature once again quickly had us back in our tents.
Day 9
Heavy rain heard throughout the night didn't inspire confidence in the day ahead. It had mostly eased to light scattered showers by morning and when it was time to leave was just misty low cloud. So not as bad as the night would suggest.
Along a closed off 4WD track for the first few km this morning. Long wet grass meant shoes were drenched again. Eventually we turned off onto the King Billy peaks. A plesant supprise as the climb up to the first peak had recently been worked on. All the stiff scrubby Bush brush cut back leaving a clear 0.5m track to follow. Still a steepish climb...
Low cloud was obscuring most of the views but occasionally a small break would let you see what we climb for. You follow along the top, drop into a shallow saddle where evidentially the track maintenence didn't reach, then climb peak 2. I got a good-ish view looking back.
Coming back off the other side were a few sections of large wet granite rocks we had to carefully traverse before becoming a much more gentle and plesant trail in amongst the ghost gums.
The trail pass the junction at the base was much more defined as it now shared a route with the Buller Huts trail. You can see it gets much more use. After descending little more it was time for the next climb up Mt Magdala. The cloud dogging me as I made the final push to the summit closing in as I arrived...
Luckily, after donning the rain jacket to protect from wind, it was a short wait before skies were clearer and we could even see to Mt Buller itself. We went down off the peak to Hellfire Creek camp, a lot more sheltered, for lunch. Matthew and Petrea were there nursing a sore knee, after taking a lower bypass around both climbs.
While at lunch another 6 rocked up doing the huts trail. Pushing for a long day and looking a little sore already. Eventually it was also time for us to press on up Mt Howitt. Long slog up, meeting a family resting mid way. They were camped at the Macallister Springs hut just the other side of Howitt as a base and doing some day walks.
Nice prominent survey marker at the top of the mountain! I guess the view was ok too, we finally got lucky with the clouds.
From there it wasn't long to drop down to a nice spring for clear mountain water. And shortly after for a small semi-sheltered campsite still on the back end of Howitt. Many take the 1.4km side trip to the hut site to camp (they even have a loo) from here, but how often can you camp on a mountain?
While semi-protected the wind still had a bit of chill and I found myself quickly reaching for layers. Not yet needing to put on everything I own (for colder nights ahead...) A bit of time to chill before dinner but hiding in the tents out of the wind before sunset.
Day 10
Heard a few keen hikers sounding like they were heading for a Howitt sunrise. I thought it was pretty chilly in the morning wind so I had breakfast in my tent. They must have been rugged up!
We got ready and set off over the Crosscut Saw, an absolutely amazing undulating ridge line. Often small sections only 1-2m wide and a 1000m drop either side. Impossible to capture the reality.
They continued up and down, but no huge climbs, for a while before eventually you start up Mt Buggery. Compared to other climbs we've done it wasn't too much. Down the other side and another climb, slighty longer, up Mt Speculation. Great spot for lunch and to look back over what we had done.
From there it was only a few short k to the planned water source, a beautiful flowing creek at the aptly named Camp Creek. Loading up with 5, heavy, liters of water so we could dry camp. The plan was the nice, gently downward slope to Catherine saddle... Where we arrived at 2.
The next plan was over Mt Despair... Which certainly lived up to its name with 5kg extra on my back. Over and on in good time the next plan was a campsite listed closer to the Viking. It was a good track off Despair... For a while...
It became a slopey rocky overgrown scrub soon after. Branches holding you back every step, our pace slowed to about 1km per hour... The 'campsite' (if we ever saw the real one) looked as if you could barely fit half a tent. So no choice but to push on to Viking Saddle.
Trees blown down everywhere. Must have clambered over, under or around more than a hundred (underestimating) trees. Slowing pace once more. The picture really doesn't do justice to the amount of trees we had to manage.
We finally broke through to a surprisingly clear saddle around 530pm. At least 1.5 hours later than expected based on distance... Quick dinner as the sun was already behind a hill and wind starting to chill to the bone. It was good to push to here though, as there's a big climb in the morning and getting here after goong through what we just did would have made it all the harder.
We also got a few weather updates and poor conditions for next 3 days being likely, it was good to have a few spare km in the bank.
Day 10
Proper rain through the night that seemed to continue through morning. A large tree fell down somewhere, probably over the trail. Camp looked fairly clear last arvo setting up, seems outside of where it looked like a long past fire had damaged leading to the sheer amount of fallen trees.
Had a little window of just light shower to pack the tent away and get going. 360m climb in 1.1km up the famous Viking. Seemed to go ok in the morning, wouldn't want to deal with this after slogging through those trees the few k leading into the saddle... Track had very little in the way of obsticals ... Even the rain had stopped.
Then we reached the main attraction, The Chimney. A short maybe 3m vertical climb with limited space. Too thin for me and the pack, but a handy rope installed to tie it off then pull it up.
Up top we were able to hide out of the wind and enjoy a small break. No sun to speak of, but at least no rain either. There was a nice few hundred meters along the ridge before a Steep steep steep down the other side. Rain started again, loose leaf litter, clay soil, slippery fun time...
Up and down the Viking we averaged just under 1km per hour. Slow going. Rain settled in and walking through ferns dripping wet made me miss those fire trails I hated so much a few days ago. Those thoughts were answered when we hit Barry Saddle.
A recent fire affected the area here and they have recently bulldozed the track, fairly clear walking for a while before we shot off onto a dissued old 4wd track and back into ferns. Fire must have chased off all the other animals leaving only us stupid hikers as food for the leaches. They were loving this rain and also apparently my legs...
We reached East Riley Rd tank around 3pm to grab water and start looking for a camp. There are many installed tanks in this stretch as its known as the "Dry Barrys" with unreliable or hard to reach water sources resulting in dehydrated hikers. Bit ironic that we've copped it with at least 25mm of rain... and more to come tomorrow.
As a result of the fire break work, pushing a bunch of trees over, it seems every flat spot had a tree pushed onto it or deep bulldozer tracks through it. Eventually we conceeded and setup on a flat, mostly clear, section right on the side of the fire track. Probably my worst 'campsite' ever. At least it was out of the wind...
Still dreched I hopped into my tent, which was immediately warmer out of the wind. A quick wetwipe bath to get the mud and blood (from the leeches I got too late) off the legs before putting on thermals and getting bed stuff sorted. All kept dry by my packliner, but still some water in the tent as as result of me.
Rain continued, so it was snacks for dinner (no need to cook in tent vestibule) Warm in my bag, but a long wait before bed time...
Day 11
Heavy absolutely pelting rain through the night at times. However again we lucked out, kind of, and only had to deal with misty showers in the morning. We packed up and set off with 3 plans, depending on what the day brought.
Continue on 5km to Selwyn Water tank, collect water, hike another 10 or so and look for a camp. Hike ~24 to the Twins Tank/Camping or push for Hotham @ ~29 k. With the wind still howling at Selwyn (a mountain I actually remember driving up on a 4wd trip many years ago) and not wanting to lug water to camp, we all determined Hotham was our best bet.
Not only a long distance today, but an absolute heck of a lot of elevation gain/loss. Following the crest of the Great Dividing Range were were up or down, with very little flat. The track follows on and off some 4wd tracks and with the thought of more leeches on the single over grown track we did continue on some of those clearer tracks. Adding a little distance but also reducing some climbing and mostly avoiding leeches.
Impossible to find a spot out of the chilling wind to rest, what breaks we had were short lived. Too cold to stay put. Extra wear on the feet not being able to rest them, with wet socks, and motivated walking, I got my first hot spots of the trip.
Around 515pm we made the final ascent over Mt St Bernard (which was an untypically gentle slope) and made it to the Great Alpine Road. Still technically another 7km of walking, mostly along the shoulder of a windy mountain road with warnings plastered everywhere about the slippery road surface....
Very luckily Kingo's parents were in the area as a bit of track support for them and was able to give us a lift into Hotham. Immediate relief getting in the car, out of the wind. They dropped me at Hotham, where I had accom booked, and continued down the mountain to Omeo where his parents were staying.
I quickely changed into my absolute cleanest and warmest clothes, shoved the rest of my gear in the drying room, and waddled the short 200m in crocs to 'The General' for dinner. About 2 dozen other people in for dinner, tourists and some local workers. Couldn't spot any other hikers.
After a fantastic Parmi I grabbed some breakfast supplies and went back to Asgaard ski lodge to start sorting some gear. Pulled out contents of pack and sprawled them around the drying room, put electronics on charge, had a really great shower, then passed out in a super comfortable bed in a warm heated room.
Day 12
Managed to sleep in to the very late 6am... Still kinda dark outside... But looking at the weather report happy to be wrapped in a blanket.
Bacon and eggs for breakfast before it was time for more chores. Laundry (after first pre washing socks) high on the list as well as resting with my feet up. Eventually I'll also have to grab my resupply package from the post office and sort food for the next stretch.
Limited resupply options at the very little store so I am very glad I sent a box here. (Some other hikers also venture into Falls Creek, a 14km return hike about 30k further on) for a larger town to resupply from.
Probably head back to The General for dinner as well... Good to load up on calories when in town ;) Looking cold and windy for a few days, so might as well step out into it tomorrow...
