Dives: 18
Avg Temp: 31°c
Max depth: 35m
Day 1
Transit?
Got up early all excited and headed to the Airport. Clearing customs and security was OK with only a few of the usual suspects that apparently have never flown, or watched a movie that involved an airport... Yes the "everything" that needs to be out of your pockets /includes/ your phone. It also means that metal belt has to go, and aerosol cans need to be out of your bag. The best time to do this is before you enter the security line. It is not a good idea to do it when you reach the counter. And it's a bad time to do it after setting off the metal detector.
With that though I met the rest of the group and we decided on what duty free we would be drinking for the week... honey bourbon made the cut. Eventually we made our way to the gate. 10min after when we should have been boarding we got an announcement of a delay due to crew issues.
20min after that there were a few dings from phones getting messages. Flight cancelled. Many many international trips, and plenty of delays, but this is my my first outright cancellation. About 5 minutes after some people got messages we got an official announcement over the PA system.
After another 30min of waiting we were escorted out of the terminal, collected our bags and ushered through customs. Luckily I could get a lift home. Virgin rebooked us tomorrow... via Sydney. Flying south 1.5 hours to fly back north is a slightly longer trip than planned... but if it works I guess...
We let Liberty Dive Resort know (as we had a pickup transfer with them) and they have been fantastic. Sorted accom, sorted new transfers, and were very helpful every step of the way.
Day 1 (again.)
Transit.
Slightly less so but still excited and I was off to the Airport for round 2. Domestic this time for the first leg, bag checked all the way through to Denpasar. Only Coralie with me. Nelly got a direct flight (we're totally not jealous at all by the way) and Gary/Marg had an earlier flight to SYD.
Much smoother run through Security and no customs this morning and I was able to enjoy a beer with an early lunch. Just over 1 episode of their onboard entertainment and we were preparing to land. Syd terminal transfer bus was easy and there was little fuss with security and customs.
Enough time for a late lunch after meeting Gary and Marg before heading to the gate. Quite a few familiar faces from yesterday... Plane was late to arrive and about 5min after our set boarding time we were notified of a 25min delay. Better than being cancelled? Oh, also the WiFi is broken...
So it's been an eventful trip so far!
Despite the earlier warning the WiFi was up and good to go when we boarded. As people streamed in the plane began to fill. Despite being a mostly full flight both Coralie and I had a windows seat with an empty chair in the middle. Long flight without a meal service and I'm not sure skittles, while delicious, are a nutritious dinner...
Arriving just after 930pm local time it felt a lot later... being 1130pm Brisbane time. If you've been to Bali before you might remember 'The gauntlet' of the exit path, which has fences and barriers and walls to force you to snake through dozens of shops and hundreds of people yelling at you to sell Sim cards or do currency exchanges or give you a taxi ride. We had our transport pre-arranged and quickly found the sign for Liberty Dive Resort.
One good thing about being here at basically midnight is that the traffic is much lighter...
Day 2 . . . I guess?
Liberty and Melasti
I managed to doze off a few times on the 3hr drive to Talumben waking briefly to be reminded that in Bali the horn is used as a Warning, Thank you, Hello and "I actually just felt bored so thought I'd toot my horn" device... Just before 2 am we arrived and were quickly ushered to our rooms, I think the staff were as enthusiastic about the time as we were (very understandable!)
Nelly was already asleep with mask on and ear plugs in as Coralie and I claimed a bed, brushed out teeth and passed out. In the morning Coralie mentioned that it wouldn't have been a minute after I went down that I was asleep. A skill that seems to perplex and err a few people that I share accom with. A handy skill to have!
Breakfast (included) was great. As we all expected to be tired we had a later start 10am for the first dive. The usual gear setup, choosing weights, pointing out gear personalisation/specifics to crew. Soon though and we got driven down to the beach entry.
As the crow flies, maybe 300m. But a little loop with the truck and gear on the road. Probably under 2min total still. Lovely porters carried our gear the ~20m from the truck to the gear up table...
We were told by our guides , Made (Mah-di) and Eric, the water temp was 28° ish so I had put on my 3mm wetsuit, just in case. My computer was reading 31°. This meant that I was a little warm, but still OK. Good descent down to the wreck, Gary taking his time due to a small head/sinus issue (better safe than sorry!)
The Bump Head Parrot fish the site is known for were all fished out (completely) over Covid so they were sourly lacking. The rest of the dive was good though. A few Nudi, Spear Mantis Shrimp, Garden Eels and a bunch of other life.
Back to the dive resort for lunch ($7 for a great Chicken Curry) before turning around for the afternoon dives. A bit further down the road this time with maybe a 5 min drive. We were glad we had a quick dip in the pool before leaving as the evaporative cooling was welcome in the heat.
A very unassuming location. Grey/black sand and 2 PVC showers but not much else. I left the wetsuit behind, just diving I. The rash shirt and shorts. The site didn't look any more exciting when we were underwater. The same bare sand with a sparse littering of rocks and soft coral.
It would be foolish to take the site at first impressions though. Almost immediately the guide was point out Crinoid Shrimp, Popcorn Shrimp, Various Nudibranch (some 1/2 the size of the head of a bobby pin) it seems we were just bouncing from one fascinating Macro subject to the next. Non stop for 60min. I even got to see an Octopus attack and start devouring a crab!
3rd dive in the same place but we had an extended Surface break due to some slight current. We were getting in as I noticed a hiss from behind my head. Luckily it wasn't my gear, just an issue with the tank which they swapped out. As soon as we were able to pop under: Harlequin Shrimp! In about 3m of water.
Heaps more Nudi, I found a few Squat Lobsters. Decorator Crabs. Pipe fish. Coralie found a cool small octopus and heaps more to seen. Nearing the end of the dive we also stumbled across some very tiny (2cm long) and very cool Frog fish.
After he dive it was back to the resort to rinse gear and relax. I had a quick shower then went up to the pool/bar for a beer where there was a couple doing Influencer/Instagram shots by the pool. I guess it is a good spot for it... if that's your thing... Chicken Parmy for dinner (and the exuberant price of $7.50) was fantastic. Same one in Brisbane would cost you almost $30... Turned in for bed fairly early though, with last night's adventure still weighing on the body.
Day 3
Sidem and Liberty Wreck Slope
A fairly good sleep only stirring a few times. I woke at about 520am and thought I would be lying there for an hour or so before breakfast. I must have managed to doze back to sleep as I woke again at ~640am to noises in the room and was able to wake up for breakfast.
Double dive at Sidem, pronounced the "Sea is Dumb" which couldn't be further from the truth. Straight after going down we saw Nudi and Shrimp and lots of macro life. Not long into the first dive and our guide Eric was enthusiastically shaking his rattler to alert us to a Boxer Crab, a first for me. Can you Spot it? It's about as wide as a 5c piece...
We also saw Harlequin Shrimp, Cuttle Fish, baby octopus, a whole swag of Nudibranch and other assorted critters before it was time to head back. Just as we reached out safety stop Gary pointed out a pregnant Peacock Mantis Shrimp, carting about her eggs to keep them safe.
Surface interval had a great fresh water shower built into a wall. Near the spout was an Elk Horn fern and it was a very relaxing place to rinse off the salt water. Second dive was just as exciting as the first with Sea Horse, new Nudis to discover and 3 more Boxer Crabs. Gary lent me his 5x Diopter (magnifying lenses) which had a bit of a learning curve but seemed to allow me better focus.
Back for another fantastic (and cheap) lunch at the resort before ducking out for a 3rd dive. This time near the wreck but the slop off to the south. Lots of Macro stuff to see plus a good Spotted Moray and a few Trevally and Barracuda swimming off in the blue.
Gary was worried that there might be a bit too much Honey Bourbon, so we skipped the beers tonight and got straight too it. We also finished the bottle. On night 2 of 6. So maybe a slight over estimation of our remaining supplies... Luckily the beer is cheap (and we can 'share' some Bailey's. . .) More cheap but amazing food for dinner before a relatively early retreat to bed.
Day 4
Batuniti and Melasti
Pancakes for breakfast this morning. Very tasty pancakes but at onky 2 a little underwhelming compared to the Full breakfast at the same price. Lucky Coralie could spare her bacon and Nelly her tomato which made it pretty filling.
Another short ride in the back of the truck to the first site. A little bit of dirt track bouncing after we turned off the main road. The 'Main Road' being a highway that appears to have less sub-grade and bitumen then some of our rural residential streets. Slightly longer walk today as well (still less than 100m) down a small beach bank made of smooth larva rocks.
Almost immediately after going down Eric was shaking his rattler with unprecedented vigour. He had found 2 Harlequin Shrimp which are fantastic little creatures we've been fairly lucky with this trip. The rest of the dive was non-stop creature after creature. Like a production line as soon as one person was finished you all hopped one critter to the right.
2nd dive was much of the same. Lots to sett and seemingly no time between the next thing to look at. Heaps of new Nudibranch for me, many so very very small. Also found my own Shawn the Sheep Nudi The white one, compared to a kebab skewer) which is a tiny speck of white on a tiny coral leaf. Not that easy to get in focus though...
The arvo dive back to Melasti for another really pleasant dive with lots to see. At one point there was a super cold thermocline. Which according to the dive computer was only a drop from 31° to 29° . . . Felt a lot cooler though.
Last day for Eric with us so we bought him a beer before dinner. Every meal I've had here has been enjoyable. Even the pancake breakfast was good (just could have done with more :) )
Day 5
Baturinggit and Liberty (Night)
Slated in for the night dive tonight so started a little later today at 9am for the first dive. Further north of the resort today for the first time. Wasn't as impressed as earlier dives. That said if this were the first dive of the trip it would have registered as awesome, we've just had some really good dives so far.
Second dine was trending the same until I saw a pile of old tires, hooked up as part of a mooring block for a buoy. Immediately I saw a giant Green Moray and hundreds of little Shrimp. As I moved around was a Ribbon eel, 2x Banded Pipe Fish and to top it off there was 5 Leafy Scorpian fish. 3 white and 2 very cool looking yellow ones.
Still lots of nudis and other small Shrimp to see. A few of the Nudibranch new to me for this trip are getting to be very common so they aren't getting their picture taken any more.
Back to Liberty Dive Resort for a long arvo surface interval. Another good lunch and they we brought out the cards to play 5 crowns. A fun game that's easy to play with different numbers, which is handy as Nelly had to duck off for some remote work and Marg had booked in for a massage. Pretty cheap at $15 for an hour, but apparently you get your moneys worth.
We got prepared for the night dive and there was talk of some current in the morning (but none about now.) We still made our way to the wreck and into the water. The plan was to do the slope looking for small stuff at the start and transition to the wreck.
As soon as we had out gear on and moved past the shallow rocks we started to feel the pull if current. Not strong current but definitely noticeable and I wouldn't describe it as slight. It made it hard to take any pictures as even when probes were speared into the sand all they did was drag backwards. Between some gulleys there were lull spots in the ley of ridges but nothing too exciting.
We made it to the wreck and were able to hide behind some structure but soon after saw other large groups of divers hurtling towards us like a giant disco ball so it wasn't long before we headed back to shore.
After a quick turn around with showers and dinner we weren't long for bed. Seems to be a recurring theme...
Day 6
Melasti and Coral Garden (South)
Back to Melasti again as the guide had a bead on a Rhinopias (a fancy fish.) They are normally deep so the plan was to head down to 25 and hang about as the guide checked down to 35m. Were diving Nitrox and a '1.4p o2 safety' for consumption at the mix were using is about 34m. 1.6 is considered mostly safe, which gets you to 40.
They found it really quickly and ushered us down one by one to take our pictures. At one point it wandered a little further and when I repositioned to take a pic I hit 35m and my dive computer ga e me a few beeps to remind me not to go any deeper...
The other thing about depth is that air goes a bit quicker... on the way back up I was hanging out around 10m with the guide below me near 15m ish. They found something and waved me down to look. I was sitting on about 60 bar (still plenty to go up, but not a good idea to go further down) so tapped my air gauge and shook my head no, which he immediately understood.
Still managed a 64min dive though, hanging out in the shallows there was still plenty of Nudi and Shrimp to look at. On the surface waiting for the second dive we were resting in the shade when another Diver stood right near us and went to light a cigarette. He was very upset when I suggested he do it elsewhere, saying "But we are outside" which is true, and there was plenty of outside away from us he could use...
Delayed start for the 2nd as the current was up a bit once more. Not as deep this time with plenty of things to see. Some big pipe fish, more Sheep Nudi. Getting back was a bit more effort, sticking a probe into the sand to hold position, then a big kick to move forward. Stopping g every now and then to try take a picture of something flapping in the drag. Right near the end Marg found a great pair of Sea Moth fish.
They have a good setup for gear rinsing here. Good tubs and regularly refreshed water. There's also a pool with some nice shade which is often used to de-salt. People often jumping in wetsuit and all.
Out for dinner tonight on recommendation of one of the local workers. Chops and Hops got the nod so off we went only to find out they were fully booked... Not to worry Slice and Brew were only 50m away and were able to give us a fantastic meal. Gary and I also got a Beer Tower. Asking for a 2lt they made a mistake and brought us a 3lt tower instead. Worse mistakes have happened I guess...
Despite the sun being long since gone its still fairly hot and humid and the restaurant air was a bit still... Smokers in a corner didn't help. When we got back I think k everyone had a 2nd shower to wash away the cigarettes smell and sweat. So glad we stopped that in buildings years ago...
Day 7
Seraya Secret and Coral Garden (North)
The mission was laid down to find a Pygmy Seahorse and Mega and Made didn't disappoint. Almost immediately after we reached depth we were called even deeper to see a huge purple fan coral with a tiny purple Pygmy Seahorse sitting pretty on it.
A bit of a line had formed (lots of cameras in the group) so I went off and found a nice white Squat Lobster to keep me entertained until it was my turn. Ended up with a few min of Deoc which was easily worked off on the way back up the slope.
Towards the end of the dive we also came across another pair of Harlequin Shrimp which are exceptionally beautiful and great photography subjects. 2nd dive had plenty of Nudi and Shrimp and lots of other Macro critters. My fave was probably this cool little flat worm I found, who was seemingly posing for photos. None of which ended up in focus...
Back for lunch and we had a bit of a show. One of the other dive groups (14, ish, strong) has 4 'Influencers' in tow. 2 came back in an, umm, "Sexy Christmas" costume? Red thigh high fish net stockings, skimpy red bikini and a Santa Hat to top off the ensemble.
The majority if the time we were eating lunch they had set up a selfie pole stand/tripod thing and were taking a variety of shots in numerous poses. Pretty sure I'd have a sore back if I tried to hold some of their poses for that long!!!
One last dive so we dropped in the Coral Gardens in search of Candy Crabs. Which the guides found. The sire also has a mini-museum with various statues and structures. Mola-Mola, kissing Dolphins and an "I <heart> Talumben" sign. All in all a good dive, probably would even consider it great if we had not been spoiled the whole week leading up to it.
For dinner we wandered down the rocky shore a bit in search of an Ocean View bar, burned into Gary's memory from bygone trips. After losing Coralie for a minute we reconnected and discovered the bar she had ducked off too was in fact the one Gary remembered. Nice view and good meals.
On the walk back we dropped into reception to fix up our bills. There was a bit of a kerfuffle as they had put the deposit (from all 5 of us) onto the bill of just the one room. Luckily Coralie was able to put on her math hat and sort it all out. The staff seemed very grateful and ended up with the total they were expecting so were happy.
Gear is still spread out, with hopes that it might dry just a touch more before morning. There was also a local Bday, using the restaurant as a party venue so we were able to listen to the tail end of the live band. To be honest I was happy when they stopped at 9:30pm though. Even at the far end of the resort they were quite loud... and diving can make you pretty sleepy.
Day 8
Transit
Up early to pack and get ready for breakfast. I threw everything into my bags to clear the room before I headed out. We weren't exactly far, maybe 150m, but I figured I didn't need to make the trip three times this morning...
The drive back to the Airport went well. The driver choosing an interesting 'short cut' were not sure saved any time... always interesting things to see on the road including heavy loads on mopeds with bottomed out suspension and a large Frangipani tree in the back of a truck, held down by 3 men also sitting in the back...
Airport seemed like not so organised chaos. We were a little early (I guess the short cut worked) and had to wait for check in to open. Once through there Security was nuts. I picked a line behind no less than 5 people that apparently didn't know about the no liquid rule. One arguing with the security guard to let him keep his body lotion... good luck buddy.
My bag was flagged and I had wait in another line to open it up for them. When it got to my turn they just asked what I had in there "Dive Camera and Dive Torches" was enough for me to get waved through... which is where the real line started at Immigration. Finally through that and found the others for lunch.
Made our way to the gate and my stomach started to cramp up... Fears confirmed on my next visit to the toilets, the dreaded Bali Belly. Been fairly careful on the trip but I can't decide if I should pin it on the Airport lunch or if I did something silly yesterday. Oh well, I thought. Home soon.
Wrong.
Cancellation 2, Electric boogaloo.
Yep. In their wisdom/lack of staff Virgin has cancelled our return flight. 2 from 2. Top marks guys. It started much the same as Brisbane with a few dingo and rumours before officially being cancelled. They moved us out of the way and the group started getting messages about rearrangements.
Coralie got a flight 50min after our original, via Melbourne... with a 6 hour stop over. Gary and Marg had a flight at 10pm, also to Melbourne, tomorrow night! Nelly and I got a 10pm tonight, also via Melbourne. Flying to Brisbane not long after Coralie in the morning. At least i can try sleep on the plane. Others were flying via Sydney and apparently a few managed to change to a direct to Coolangatta tonight.
Nelly and I said our goodbyes to the others and managed to get into the lounge on her Priority Pass. No alcohol in this one, but ok snacks. Free soft drink and massage chairs.
930pm we finally started boarding out flight. All the usual joys of flying. People (who had an extra 7 hours to get prepared because of the cancellation) deciding that holding up 1/2 a plane load of people in the aisle as they dug through to the bottom of their carry on, for that one essential item, they didn't need until just that minute, was a better use of their time. Some very very tired kids (I feel very sorry for the parents.) People taking 3x the space of the overhead bins than allocated and forcing others to have to seek far and wide for a place to put their (reasonable) bag. Fun times.
Day 9
More Transit
I tried to sleep during the flight but was finding it difficult with the upset stomach, upset kids, and the lady behind me not realising that every time she pushed against my chair to stretch I could feel it! After the second time though I turned around, tapped the chair and gave the cut it out signal. She seemed very apologetic... but come on... how could you NOT know pushing and bumping someones chair is annoying... at least she stopped I guess...
Saw the sun rise as we approached Melbourne and had a rather smooth landing. Had to clear customs here and recheck bags. First time I have been placed in a dog sniffer line. It added a bit of time, but seemed to flow. One of my fellow cancelled guests started getting cranky at Customs and was dressed down pretty quickly. Not their fault Virgin stuffed us about. Just gotta let them do their job. With all the extra time we were barely cleared Customs before it was time for Nelly's flight to Brisbane was set to take off. No chance to do her bag drop and clear security... so she missed that. You would think if they gave you a connecting flight they would fast track customs, or at least pick a connection that's feasible to make... We also heard that Coralie's bag had been left in Denpasar...
After my own bag drop and security I had about 10min, so downed a protein bar for breakfast, which sat relatively well... The Melb to Brisbane flight seemed to go off without a hitch. The only issue is that I had Duty Free for pickup at Brisbane Internation, which is apparently impossible when landing at Brisbane Domestic... so a phone call to sort out... later.
All in all a pretty horrible way to end a trip... actually we didn't have the best start either... but the bit that counts, the Sweet Gooey Diving Centre, was absolutely fantastic. Guides, company, food, so, so many amazing little Critters. A really absolutely awesome trip... even with the few logistical hurdles...
Thanks for making it another fantastic trip guys!
