Hiking - 2026 04 - AAWT Part 4 - Thredbo to Kiandra

 Day 28

Few late night patrons from the pub/resturant next door making a bit of noise but I think I slept through most of it. Cereal for breakfast before we had to check out of the room. Not a huge day today so we were hanging in Thredbo for an early lunch. New shoes are feeling fantastic :) 

 

 
Stopped at the Foodworks for some last minute essentials (corn chips, salsa and softdrink for lunch, more M&Ms for the trail) and then to the bakery for a smoko sausage roll while others had coffee. Lunch was as above plus fresh fruit and a few slices of a $12 loaf of bread. (M&Ms were $9 a packet...) We were then dropped back at Dead Horse Gap to resume our hike.

After goodbyes we started. Up. Lots of stairs. Some made of wood sleepers, many of rock. Looks like lots of recent track maintenence and a few Bulka Bags of tools, rocks and mulch helicoptered in. More climbing, almost 500m up over 5km... 1.5 hours later and we reached the top of the Thredbo Chairlift. Geoff decided to hike this portion yesterday, with an empty food bag, and take the lift down (then back up after his rest day and resupply.) After our climb that felt like a very smart idea...  

Probably as a result of good weather and ANZAC day long weekend people were absolutely pouring down the path past us. Super busy. I had hoped with our late summit time we might have had it a bit quieter. When we reached the top there was still a long line for summit photos and people doing 5-10 poses and we didn't want to wait too long, so I took a picture of the (lid of) the actual monument, a Permenant Survey Mark. Which confused a few tourists. 

Heading back down from the top of Australia we turned off onto 'The Rolling Grounds' route and not long after, turned off again to Wilkinson's Creek campsite. We stopped short of the creek itself, it was already crowded and where all the cold air will drain. Not the most level spot but a good view over the valley. Even on the hill it got cold pretty quick though, we're still above 1900m. More people strolled in, at least 18 tents and many of them 2 person tents.

By the time we were reaching for our sleeping bags cold misty cloud was rolling over the mountains and already forming above the creek. Nice to watch... for a few seconds before hiding in the tent to get warm. It had already reached some of the tents near the creek. 

 

Day 29

Climb out of the creek and then back onto the Rolling Grounds. The first 6 or so kms are shared with a ~22km loop you can do from Charlotte's Pass, via Blue Lake and over Kosciuszko. Seems to be a popular route as we were seeing lots of people, quite a few apparently starting at sunrise.

As a result of the extra use NSW parks have made it a much more substantial trail. Some metal boardwalks, but many sections of large rocks placed. Pretty hard underfoot, really glad I got those new shoes. You could say the path was Rock solid. Other sections had retention fabric and large gravel, which was equally uncomfortable to walk on... 

Soon we reached the turn off to Blue Lake. As deep as a 10 story building apparently. We dropped packs and did the 2.5km return to the lookout. Guess it looks more blue when it's half frozen in winter...

  

From there the track was much less maintained... and much easier on the feet. Still crossed paths with 5 hikers out enjoying the long weekend, but no more day hikers. With less walkers it also meant a less defined foot track.

It was fine over a few peaks and saddles, I think it's still part of a 15 peaks loop (the highest peaks in AUS) that seems fairly popular. Eventually the foot track gave way to grass and there was little or no track to speak of. Navigation was pretty easy, don't head into the valley either side.

When we lost the track it was a quick reference on the Topo map if we needed to be on the right or left side of the next peak and then head off in that direction. Often we could see a track far off on the next saddle to aim for, sometimes we even found it before we got there... Far above the tree line we had sight lines for days and no scrub to get in our way, so it wasn't difficult.

Lots of mountain soaks, which many turned into creeks. Boggy grass and moss and hundreds, if not thousands, of bright green (apparently native) grasshoppers. As long as they're out here and not eating my plants, I guess it's ok...   

 

Eventually we reached the end of the range and it was time to head down. Soon trees were back and so was the scrub. Clear, worn, footpad to follow with knee high scrub encroaching from both sides. Short distance down and we reached Whites River Hut. Lost the sun behind a ridge about half way down. Still very light but already cold.

The hut was occupied by 3 hikers (parents and their adult son) and limited bed space so we set up our tents. They had the fire going inside though, so we joined them for dinner and a good chat in the now-warm hut. 

 

Day 30

Yet another frosty morning but this time we were in the valley so it took a bit extra for the sun to reach us. Not long after it did the frost melted away and with clear skies the tent actually got mostly dry before it was time to pack up and get going.

We started up the Schlink Pass Road, which seems to be the main maintenance road for the powerlines we were also following... For about 5.5km before turning off onto a more 4WD track. It's can't be all scenic views all the time I guess. Recently bulldozed, it was pretty dusty and rocky but still a bit softer than the gravel road. A few easy to hop over creek crossings and some climbs and steep descents later and we reached a bright red Valentine Hut. Little love hearts painted, or fashioned out of steel rods, adorned this cozy little hut. 

 
After enjoying the hut for lunch we set off down an apparently seldom used track to find Valentine Falls. It started ok and then quickly became scrubby. Easy to see the direction the track wanted to go though, but slow moving through it. At one point there were a heap of fallen, and cut, logs. So it was maintained at one point. Unfortunately, new trees had fallen in the exact same spot... However, the cut logs underneath did make for good steps to climb over the newly fallen. Pretty good falls. 

 

From there it was back to the hut and then continuing on the 4WD track. A few river crossings now, no way to keep dry shoes by rock hopping. So we ploughed on through. Quite refreshing, lucky its a warm day. The track seems to do a massive loop, over another (wet feet) river, up over a hill and then back down. On the way down you could look left and see the same falls we visited near lunch off in the distance.

Yet more creek crossings, at this point with still wet shoes not much effort was placed on a dry way across. Another 4 in total. The last only roughly 2km from camp. Strolling into camp with wet shoes and we bump into Jenny, who we met a few nights ago at Tin Mine hut. Still just doing some out and backs.

There was also 3 other mates out for a week, following a similar trip to our last few days, but the other direction. So it was a good info share and we got some tips about what's ahead. They had collected some wood already and got a fire going, and we were able to upgrade our shoes from absolutely soaking wet to merely damp.

As I went to screw on my stove top to boil some water for dinner I snapped off one of the pot stand legs (of 3) rendering it useless. It had a good run, 13 years old and completed the PCT (4,300km), Larapinta (220km) and Bibbulmun (1,005km) with me as well as loads of QLD Great Walks, the Overland Track in TAS and countless shorter hikes all over the place. Lucky hiking with Andrew he was happy to share hot water from his jetboil. I've cold soaked before... but it's not my preference. Especially with frosty mornings.

Day 31

More frost today, but we were on the western side of a shallow valley so sun hit the tents fairly early and it started melting off pretty quickly. The others all took off shortly before us as they stayed in the hut and didn't have tents to semi-dry. 

About 6km after we started we caught up to Jenny heading north (the other 3 went off south) and not long after bumped into a couple of SOBO doing the Kiandra-Kosi section. Soon followed by another group of 4 doing the same. Popular section.

It was 4WD trails all day, with a few wet creek crossings. We made good time to O'Keefes and pulled up a little early for lunch. The inside of the hut is lined with old newspapers from the late 1930's and early 1940's. Some interesting headlines. A few about WW2 as well.

More of the same 4WD trail and a few more creeks involving wet feet. We came across some Snowy Hydro employees working on one of their rain gauges. Installing new heating system as it has to survive ~4 months of snow with no visits. I did ponder for a second which way they were driving out... 

We made it to Mackay's Hut by about 3pm and propped our shoes up in the sun. Still damp by sunset we lit a small fire inside to finish drying them off.

Day 32

Early start for a planned longer day, 27.6km with a bit of up and down but no massive climbs. First creek near the hut had a nice foot bridge so we were able to keep our feet dry... for a while. About 8km in was another creek to walk through. Nice and refreshing.

Still on 4WD tracks all day and one short stint on a gravel road which is hard on the feet and we were glad to be rid of it. Passed the turn off to Happy Hut (which was a potential shorter camp) but we decided against it as it's 2km off trail. Then a backtrack, or bush bash up a ridge in the morning.

I was able to get service near Tabletop Mountain and let people know I was still alive. Good view back to Mt Jagungal, a side trip I'll have to come back to one day (we didn't fancy an extra 500m climb and a few extra kms yesterday.)

Despite passing through some brilliant and scenic open meadows the only animal life we've seen are insects, a few birds and the rare small skink scurry away. No feral  horses, sorry 'Brumbies', not even a kangaroo. Apparently emu are around here too, none of them either. For 2 days now, beginning to wonder if the larger animals know something we don't... 

We made it to Nine Mile Creek just before 3pm, not a bad effort. We had a look around for the (Chapman guidebook described) 'pleasant campsites' and couldn't see squat, but found suitable flat space in a saddle a few hundred meters beyond. Made for a good spot to enjoy the sunset, though quite cold as soon as it was gone. In our sleeping bags by 6pm.

Day 33

For the first time in about 2 weeks we woke without frost on our tents. Up in the saddle we had the sun rise behind a ridge by about 7:20am but even when I woke up around 6am at first light it was all water droplets. 

As we got moving there was some frost still hanging on under bigger logs or thick clumps of grass, but the day was quick to warm up. Cold wind did start to make a return, but in the sun it didn't feel too bad.

After smoko we started seeing very fresh evidence of horses, but they were still proving elusive. We made good time and reached Kiandra by about 10:30am. My original plan from here was to catch a ride into Adaminaby to resupply, but Justie (who ended his hike in Hotham) kindly offered to let me raid his drop. 

His trail diet is a bit... healthier than mine... But I was able to make do. As a forward thinker I was prepared and carried extra Skittles and M&Ms from Thredbo... His protein dessert bars should make a good breakfast. Lunch here at the boxes, then onto our last section!

Hiking - 2026 04 - AAWT Part 3 - Benambra-Corryong Rd to Thredbo

Day 21

Another misty/foggy morning packing up with a wet tent. Straight out of the gate was a 500m climb over a little under 3km. Who's idea was it to have such a big climb immediately after one of the more convenient resupply points? Pack is heavy with 6 nights of food... 

Luckily the bush was fairly open so using trekking poles helped with the elevation gain. There were a few loose rocky sections that took a bit more effort but over all the climb seemed to go smoothly. We even managed to climb out of the cloud and see our first blue skies in a while. 

There was yet more climbing to do, but it became more gentle and on a fairly recently maintained track. Sawdust piles still visable at some of the larger cut logs. We popped out onto yet another forestry management road, our track for the rest of the day, until we summited Johnnies Top.

A comms tower here, but either not Telstra, or we were too close, as we had little in the way of phone signal. A good full water tank and nice grass sites amongst the trees. As we had a bit of time in the arvo I also took to reparing a hole that developed in my shorts pockets. Definitely not as neat as mum could do, but should do the trick. 

Nick rolled in not long before dusk on his 4th traverse of the AAWT, which was amongst 9 different thru hikes through the area, the other 5 having varying routes following the same general direction southward over the great dividing range. 

Day 22

Sounded like the wind was howling last night, but wouldn't have known it in the tent. Dense regrowth after a fire provided much welcomed protection. Full blue skies, first time in what feels like a lifetime. The trail from the top was on an old management 4wd track that quickly morphed into a single foot track as it made its way down. 

Gentle at first for a good few k, it took a sharp nose dive near the end of the descent down to meet a nicely flowing Corner creek. The description for the next few km of track was 'swampy marsh' but we found it relatively dry. With a lot of low spots though, you can easily see how it would become swampy in wet weather.

Lots of criss-crossing brumby tracks leading off in various directions. More open bush and a bit of chose your own adventure, as long as you kept heading east and didn't cross the Creek to the north. Plenty of pink flagging tape made for very easy navigation in this 'non-defined' section of track. 

The valley then narrows and has you skirting up the side of a steep bank near the creek, loose soil and tough in sections, before opening up again. Less/no tape here but same general principle, head east and don't cross the creek. We definitely lost the track a few times but eventually found our way onto Beunba Flats. 

Large open valley popular with campers and hunters. One such group still camping in the valley stopped us for a chat and offered us a beer. It went down very well in the midday sun. We continued on about 1km to the other side of the flats for lunch.

Campfire left behind here still smoking and full of red coals. Luckily only 30m from the creek so we collected some water and put it out properly. Good, flat, open camping here, bet it's busy on long weekends.

From there it was another climb up through more open scrub. Sun hot on the back, but better than the chilling winds of days gone by. This particular hill seemed to go by quickly, must have been the bonus calories from the beer. Eventually popping out onto a gravel road, not just a track but a hard underfoot, maintained, gravel road. 

Shoes must be reaching end of life because I felt all the larger stones I stepped on. Luckily new shoes awaiting in Thredbo. We then turned onto a "Difficult - Dry Weather Only!" 4wd track, that I'm pretty sure you could drive Mums Honda Jazz down...

Further along we took a short side trip on Mt Murphy Rd to see the scant remains of a Wolfram (Tungsten ore) mine. Some concrete slabs and a few bits of rusty machinery seemingly all that's left. Then a short hour or so to Buckwong Hut.

The hut looks like little more than a Tin Shed from the outside. As it's locked we couldn't find out if it was any better inside. No more than 100m past the hut is a lush green wide open 4wd camping area. Plenty of fire pits around and could fit quite a few groups here, but we had it all to ourselves. Great spot to camp if you're in the area. 

Day 23

Woke up to frost on the tents, explains why I felt a bit cold last night... Guess we are near the creek. Sun shining on my tent by 720am did warm things up... A little... By the time we were ready to go I was back into T-shirt and shorts. 

Sign on the road saying "No trailers past this point" so maybe it does actually become difficult... We turn off up the creek so I won't find out. Following up the creek through really pleasant meadows. No track to follow except near choke points like around thickets of bush, or fallen trees. Any semblance quickly disappeared over the grass as hikers obviously spread out. Plenty of great camping along here too. 

Eventually it was time to climb again and a non defined route pointed us into thick scrub. A distinct lact of any track markers, or pink flagging tape, had us pushing through scrub. Plenty of Brumby tracks, some even heading vaguely the correct direction, all short lived. I followed the gps track off and on, crossing over and back. Down a faint goat track, until it was leading the wrong direction, then cutting back through scrub.  

We stopped in an open gully for smoko, where there is 3 track markers within 40m. All pointing up the middle of the clear gully. Those were 3 of 5 markers (total) we saw this entire stretch... The 3rd not pointing to any discernable track leading out of the clearing... Back to bush bashing. 

Luckily when we got to the steeper climb there was a faint track that became more and more defined as we reached higher and the scrub opened back up. Finally reaching Misery Trail (a 4wd track) at the top. Despite previous feelings, I was glad to hit this particular road. 

A few km on and turned off left back onto a single track. Well cleared and maintained with markers every 20 or so meters. There were even 3 instances of a double track arrow, pointing the same direction, on the the same tree. One of which had a 3rd marker on its opposite side (for those hiking the other direction.) If I had the time/energy I'd rip half, or more, of these markers off and nail them to trees from this morning... The trail crew even had time to carve smiley faces into stumps...

More up and down along a creek and then I got to see my first Brumbies of the trip. 2 adults and one much smaller, but not a young fowl. We had been seeing lots of fresh evidence (hoof prints and massive dropping piles) on the track so it was good to finally see some, and not just smell what they left behind. 

It wasn't much longer until we reached Limestone creek. Much smaller camping area than Buckwong, but still nice grass. Still close to the creek though, so I imagine another cool night.

Day 24

Woke up to more frost and the water bottle I had outside the tent had ice starting to form. We were a bit behind a hill today so the sun took longer to reach us. Quite cold breakfast and pack. We also had to get across Limestone Creek, which I managed only barely dipping my left toes in the water.  

Stopped a few hundred meters in to get my gloves back out and put them on. Fingers were freezing gripping onto trekking poles. Following up the bank of Stoney Creek, a much more defined trail than yesterday but still a few short stints we lost the trail. Very overgrown again so more pushing through scrub.

Eventually we left the creek to climb a short steep spur and met Cowombat Flat track. A 4wd track that continues past a locked gate, where it becomes a management trail. There was a few food drops near the locked gate. One bright white bucket basically out in the open. Trusting other hikers and 4wders not to take it. Another I only saw hidden behind a log, covered in a cammo net, as it happened to be the log I chose to sit on for lunch.

The well maintained dirt road took us all the way to camp for the night. Only semblance of anything interesting on the way was a nice 30 or so seconds as you pass Bulley Creek. Feet a bit sore after 15km on road. Nice spot to end the day though. Just past the mighty Murray River. Officially in NSW. 

At camp we met Geoff, who had been a day ahead in a few of the log books. Great for a chat. Geoff, Andrew and I took a short arvo stroll to check out Cowombat Flats. There is a few remains from a crashed RAAF Dakota plane, some feral horse traps (looks like they weren't currently set) and several sporatically placed odd looking fenced off areas, who's sign informed us were to keep Feral Horses out so they could monitor vegetation regrowth and compare to the unfenced adjacent areas. A few wispy clouds made for a nice sunset before bed. 

Day 25

Frost everywhere. All over Cowombat flats, all over my tent... but at least no ice forming in the water bottles. A bit slower to get going, waiting for the sun to warm things up. We did have a larger day planned though, so we were motivated to get moving. 

Another alternative day we were taking the Cowombat Trail, rather than the Pilot Trail the AAWT follows. This was because just 2km down the Cowombat trail was an offshoot trail to visit the source of the Murray River and the Black & Allan Cairn. Marking the straight line on the NSW/VIC border. 

After returning to our packs left at the turn off we continued up the trail until another side trip junction. The steep trip up The Pilot, known for 360° views stretching as far back as almost Hotham, and to the north the Snowy Mountains, including Mt Kosciuszko which we will reach in a few days. 

Geoff had taken the main AAWT route but also turned off (about 600m where we were to eventually rejoin) for The Pilot and happened to arrive just as we were finishing lunch and getting ready to head up. Numerous little rock cairns lead the way up to the peak... All slightly differently.... At one point the three of us were spread out across 40m, all with a rock cairn marking that we were on the 'correct' route up. It didn't really matter, as long as you were heading up...  

Brilliant views from the top as promised and another trig point. We spent a bit of time just enjoying the warmth of the sun and endless surrounding mountains before heading down... via yet another route. Keep heading down until you hit Cowombat Trail was our calculated nav route...  

From there more of the same 4wd management trail walking. Passing by a really nice creek and meadow, and pushing a few more km into Tin Mine huts. 2 huts (one much smaller than the other) and Jenny a friendly hiker out for a few days that already had the fire going. 

I quickly set up the tent (as it was still wet from the mornings frost) and then joined her at the fire. With the fire going I lasted until almost 745 before the call of a warm sleeping bag was too loud to ignore. 

Day 26

Set the tent in the sun yesterday arvo to dry off a bit as I packed it away wet. With the distraction of the fire I couldn't be bothered moving it under trees. So out in the open it got very frosty by morning...

Luckily a short 16km day so we were in no rush and let the sun do its thing and melt the frost away. Entirely fire trail and only an extra 10k to Dead Horse Gap, then 4k on the Thredbo River trail.. So I did consider making it to town a day early... By the time the tent dried it was already past 9am so those thoughts wavered.

No interesting side trips today and along the fire trail we were doing a little over 5kph. Few creeks that would look nice if brumby's hadn't destroyed their banks. Strolled into Cascade Hut around 1230. Nice little wooden hut and good grass camping nearby. 

Jenny was here, after a very early departure this morning, for lunch before she continued back out to Thredbo. Thoughts of pushing on resurfaced... but were put to rest after I took my shoes off to let the feet breath and realised I really didn't want to put them back on today. 

Inspired by the fire Jenny welcomed us with yesterday, and with plenty of afternoon to spare, I set out and collected a bit of wood. This would mark the 4th fire for the hike and only the second I have had a hand in making. A motor assisted Mountain Biker stopped by for a quick visit before speeding off. 

A while later Scott, a SOBO hiker, joined Andrew, Geoff and myself at camp. Few days since we've seen a SOBO so it was good to swap information about upcoming trail again. Warmer than last night (bit higher away from a meadow) and one of my latest nights on trail, 830 before bed. Must have been the good fire ;)

Day 27

Another short day planned, only 10km into Thredbo. Pretty long sustained climb up Bobs Ridge still though. Amazing views of the Rams Head range and of the Pilot behind us. Down the other side of Bobs Lookout it started to get busy with a few hikers heading out for a few days and lots of Mountain Bikes. 

Anzac day long weekend and apparently the last weekend that the chairlifts are used for downhill biking. Down into the valley along a nice river to round out the day.

When we reached the road we collected Andrews stashed resupply and his lovely family had driven down from Canberra to stay the night, so were able to pick us up and take us the 4km into Thredbo. 

Nat had booked a nice 3 bed apartment for us all to fit in, brought some amazing fresh fruit and even cooked us burgers! Spent the Arvo doing some chores, shower, sorting food, doing laundry etc and then relaxed before dinner. 

Nice night out and a great Whisky Flamed Wagu Beef to satisfy town food cravings. Still on hiker time so it was early to bed... Short hike out tomorrow, but a bit of climb involved... and a full load of food...