Wednesday, 16 November 2016

Travel - USA 2016 - South West (pt 2)

After a quick shower it was time to get back on the road. Taking the eastern exit out of the Canyon I stopped in at the Desert View tower for one last look at the Grand Canyon.



After that I drove towards Horseshoe bend. By the time I got close it was a little too late in the day so I pulled into another free camp, took advantage of Maccas Wifi to upload the canyon hike post them went to bed. 

In the morning I woke up to the sound of a hot air baloon being filled. After I stirred I counted no less than 38 in the sky. Didn't get the chance to find out if it was for a special event, but I imagine the view from the baloons would have been awesome.

I headed to horseshoe bend not far from camp and proceeded the walk to the the edge to try get the best pic. Tourists here a little more safety consience were overheard saying words to the effect that I was crazy. Don't worry mum, as always safety first! The ledge was solid as as rock... literally.



I also wanted to check out the Antelope slot canyon, but it's by tour only and booking was annoying and combined with the price I was put off. Maybe next time. 

I left and headed to Monument Valley, made even more famous by Forest Gump in his running scene when he decides it's time to head home. Overcast and afternoon sun don't make for the clearest pictures. My camera is now also playing up (either motor or gears for the lense) so the pictures I have won't do it justice.



From there it was almost time to find another camp. This time at the end of a road by a river, next to a huge sandstone cliff. Great little spot just outside a town called Bluff.  I was woken early in the morning by a truck pulling up and a few guys getting out to go hunting. I went back to sleep but when they eventually started shooting, even though they hiked in a fair way, it was hard to stay in bed. 
Made it to Archers NP by smoko and started doing all the little walks from the car parks. Some amazing structure here. think the Olgas (Kata Tjuta) times a thousand. I did feel myself getting a little annoyed with large groups of slow walking tourists though... 



It seems all the families, and most interstate Americans too, would move to the side and give way. Other tourists though, walking 3-4 across blocking the path needed a prompt. The double arch was probably the most impressive site of the day. Took a while to get a clean shot without people climbing/walking all over it.



Speaking of climbing, a lot of the spires here allow actual climbing up them. People with top rope setups heading up small stacks, would be very cool to stand atop one. I imagine any climber could spend months in here having fun.

Making my way to the campground at the back of the park so I could be ready for a few hour hike in the he morning starting near there. After quite a few free nights paying for a site felt silly,  but I guess it was a fairly good location and worth the few bucks.



In the morning I headed off to the Devils Garden to do a loop. The loop goes via 7 beautiful arches but the path can be tricky to follow at points. Luckily there were a lot of rock cairns marking the trail do you knew if you had wandered off. 



The trail itself was good too. A few easy rock scrambles and no shortage of valley walls or beautiful rock formations to catch your view. Another bonus, it was listed as a difficult 'primative' trail so there were far less people on it.  

Back to the crowds on the way out. I did the hike to Delicate Arc which I didn't do yesterday as I wanted to get to camp early. Once at the top I saw 1 person doing what seemed to be a full photo shoot (with the photographer only using an iPhone...) They were under the arch for 8min after I arrived. No idea how long before, though the long line of unhappy lookong people waiting suggested it had been a while.



After lunch I took off out of the park and started heading west. I knew I wasn't going to make it to Bryce tonight so found another decent free camping area. Not sure if it was the Bright green Juicy van or just that I wasn't in a ute but driving down the country roads on the way to the camp attracted a few inquisitive looks from the farmers. The final track was a little rocky, only a slight underbody scrape.on dirt... missing my 4x4.

I finished the drive to Bryce just before lunch. Lots of warning signs about hiking in the heat but it was a cool day so I was happy to go hiking off into the canyon. Most of the 8 ish miles was shaded and felt and little cold anyway.  

The canyon itself was awesome. Lots of varying beautiful colours, rock pillars, sheer walls beside the path and always something to look at. I easily took more pictures her than anywhere else so far.









After the walk I took the park drive to all the various lookouts along the way. There look to be some pretty good multi-day hikes you can do in here too. Will  have to save that for the next trip though. Day was drawing to an end so I found a free camp in the forestry area just adjacent to the national park.

It was an easy drive into Zion park but by the time I arrived the 2 campgrounds were already full. I enjoyed a good lunch at the brew pub near the visitor centre, decided to get my Subway hike permit then walked up the short canyon overlook trail for a view of Zion and some cool cliff edges to perch on. 

I was really really looking to do a top down overnight hike of the Narrows, but the ranger said no one else was going to be in the canyon (no permits issued, little late in the season) and in all honesty even after the PCT a canyon hike is something different and something I wasn't really prepared for. All the hire gear the ranger suggested did look a little unnecessary. Dry pants, special shoes, neoprene socks big wooden walking stick (trekking poles too flimsy apparently) and even full dry suits on offer. Though Unprepared is unsafe, so I pulled the pin. WI'll need to come back one summer to do it.  



It was soon time to look for camp. I headed up a dirt road listed on the free camps site and saw a few spots. Decided to push on a little further but then started seeing farming fences and the road was a little more bush track like. 

When turning around another vehicle drove past stopped and asked if I was lost. Explained I was looking for camping and he insisted I followed him up the hill and that my van would probably make it. I'm very glad he stopped. One of the best backdrops I've ever had for a camp spot.



The next morning I got up and headed around to the west entrance to do a 'strenuous full day hike' up to the Subway. I slept in so got there a little late. Not wanting to waste anymore time I headed down to the river. It took just under 1.5 hours to reach the end, not quite half a day... Beautiful carved out gorge. I was expecting a full cave but it was still very impressive.





As I'd been camping in free spots for a while it had also been a few days since I had had a shower. Though I didn't last long in the 11°c water..... I think it did the trick. I certainly felt fresher.



Back to the main park and another short river side walk in the early afternoon. I took the rest of the time to find a power point to recharge my laptop which has been flat since the Grand Canyon. I might suggest an inverter on my Juicy return form. 

Back out to an different free camp for the night. By the time I left the sun was already setting and although I loved the site the other night I didn't want to go up that hill in the dark. 

In the morning I went back into the park and caught the shuttle up the valley. I hopped off for the Angels Landing hike. Short distance wise but significant elevation gain. The last 0.5 miles is a scramble over the sandstone,  with a chain along most of the path to help you on your way. Some very cool cliff edges to look over. I would also like to say that the vast majority of people were very polite and and willing to move to let me pass.



Made it back down pretty early so also decided to do observation point. Slightly longer and higher, but path the entire way. Great views of the entire valley and Angels Landing.



Back down at about 3pm and decided to call it a day and head for camp. After all I had just done 2 very strenuous full day hikes! Judging hiking time when I get back and PCT legs are no more is going to probably be a little sad.

As I had time I went back to the first nights camp. Being Friday night it was actually a little busy, still plenty of room to find a space. One group was having a good night and their voices carried in the cold night air but after the hills I was able to fall asleep easily. 



An early start in the morning as I was woken up by another group of keen hikers. Off to do a bottom up hike of the Narrows. Hopped off the bus and filled the paved path until it ended. From there on it was a lot of walking in the water. Often times up to waist deep. It either got warmer further up or my legs/feet got numb... probably the later.



I kept hiking until I couldn't see anyone else. The lower parts of the Narrows were pretty crowded but the further up you went the thinner the crowds got. After hiking for another 30 min past the last person I saw I figured it was time to start heading back down, finding someone to take my picture on the way.



After feeling returned to me toes it was time to say goodbye to Zion. Another awesome National park that I would love to come back to. The drive to Vegas wasn't too long but it pushed into night. Beautiful pink sunset painted across the desert sky.

Vegas it self was also bright and colourful. There is a RV parking lot (well... They don't move on RVs at least) not 10 min walk from the main Strip. Bit loud and bright, but right in the heart of Vegas. The city itself, or at least the main area is like a huge nightclub  with many many rooms and themes. 



Public drinking in the street is fine (as long as it's not glass) and plenty of entertainers to catch your eye. Lots of scantily clad people... err... 'props' I guess you would describe them. For just $5 you can get a picture with them. I think Vegas would be much better as a group adventure. By myself it didn't seem all that appealing. 
Still pretty lights and ladies so I can see the attraction. I put some dollars down for the nights entertainment and, as expected, walked away without it. Would have been nice to be able to drive away in the Corvette though...



Despite the city only starting to come alive I sought the shelter of bed at about 11 pm. Not the best nights sleep and fully awake early morning. I was running short on time so it needed to be a big day anyway. I took my leave of the city of Sin and made way to Death Valley.

The drive out seemed well used by RVs and a few day trippers from Vegas but it was little more than a country highway. Still I got into Death Valley by also kept.  Took the time to do a little canyon walk before lunch. 



After that it was off to the lowest point in the USA. Badwater Basin. The salt Lake is tiny compared to Lake eyre but at about 70 meters lower it's the lowest point I have ever been in my life. Couldn't find a survey mark to confirm though... 

On the way out of the Valley I stopped of at some desert sand dunes. I was surprised how similar it was to beach sand, I was expecting similar red sand to the Simpson desert in Aus. If you walked out far enough you could get past vegetation but time was pressing and I had to move on.



Another 4.5 hours to get to where I wanted to camp. The route took me down a highway I crossed on the PCT and past Tehachapi, one of my resupply towns. I also passed by lots of fruit orchards. Seeing a sea of green trees amongst the brown dirt and oil pumps makes you understand why California is always in and water shortage...  

Camp was just inside Sequoia NP up a windy dirt road that took 30 min to go 12 miles. Road condition wasn't too bad but very windy sharp turns and nd ruts that required a little navigation around. Made more difficult because it was dark, even with the Super Moon lingering overhead.

Road must have been a little rougher than I thought as I awoke to a mostly flat tyre. It still had some air and I couldn't see the puncture but it deflated enough that I had to change it to the space saver spare. 

I then embarked on the long windy road up the west side of the National Park I hiked through seemingly so long ago. On the map it all looks so close but even in a car around the hairpin turns it takes a while to get anywhere. I did make it to General Sherman. The entire area had gigantic trees. Dwarfing any I had ever seen before. 



I also took in a short hour hike before heading out of the park. One last hurrah in the wilderness. Luckily I did because LA lives up to its traffic reputation. Vehicle collisions, road works accidents and congestion turned a 5 hour drive into 7. Parking in another walmart close to where I need to drop the van.

Loud traffic and pedestrian noise made for another lack luster slumber. I returned the van and because of the 'stress and hassle' it must have been to change the flat they gave me a day for free! Easiest 50 bucks I've ever made, changing one tyre. 

Caught an Uber to Venice beach and dropped my bags at the hostel. Walked along the beach and spent a while watching the Skateboarders do their thing. Also saw someone shooting a twerking video in one of the life guard stands, possibly an audition vid (?) A few surfers out and water wasn't too bad but no one was swimming. 



I still have a few days here before I fly home but this will be the end of my trip blog. Hope you've enjoyed coming along on my journey! Looking forward to catching up with everyone when I get home. 

To all my new friends if ever you visit Australia look me up, happy to show you some great hikes around Brisbane!

2 comments:

  1. Thanks Scott! We have loved reading your blog and sharing in your adventures. Family, friends and neighbours have enjoyed being part of it as well. The photos you have shared are amazing. What an absolutely fantastic achievement!!!!Looking forward to having you home. We are so very proud of you!! Love and hugs from Mum and Dad

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  2. A great adventure Scott. I have enjoyed reading it. We had such poor data most of this trip rhis year that i only did 3 blogs. We did too many free camps. Good for the pocket though. We have been home a couple of weeks. 5 months was a long time.
    We really wnjoyed our stay in Sequoia in 1971. It was amazing especially all our bear encounters.

    Will see you soon. Safe travels.

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