Breakfast in the hotel room this morning. I had hoped to hit the Cafe on the way out, but I had a slightly longer day (32.4km) and they said they didn't open until 8am. As I walked past about 715 I saw someone coming out with a coffee in hand... Oh well.
The track was fairly easy in the morning. Nice sandy soil but not loose sand. We also followed along an old rail line so it was an easy grade. A little further we started to follow the Gardner river and criss cross it a few times. A few sections of loose sand seemed to suck extra energy with each step.
Orchids today are out in force. Heaps of Enameled, Cowslip, Snail and a new (to me) pink cowslip. Made it to Gardner hut just before 11am for lunch. A hiker was having a rest day here (nursing a sore knee) but was ok to walk out to Northcliffe tomorrow.
After lunch there were a few more sections of soft sand as well as some swampy flooded sections of trail. I caught up to Jess who had stopped to swap her boots out for sandals. With the trail runners, they dry fairly fast, I am happy to just plough on through it. Deepest got to just below my knee. Three more puddles to wade through (a few others you could skirt around) with the last being just 1.6km shy of camp.
It was a bit too short to dry out the shoes so I found what little sun I could and when that was fading sat them near the fire. They'll still be damp in the morning... but apparently more flooded sections ahead anyway. Camp tonight was by a lake that was giving me very strong Lake Boomajin vibes. With a bit if wind it was a bit too cold for a dip... 4 at camp tonight.
Day 34
Every hikers favourite thing; wet shoes. Temp was fairly good this morning though so it wasn't too bad. Packed up and away just after 7. 25ish to do today.
Trail elevation is pretty mild through this bit. Coastal wetlands so up and down a few knolls but nothing serious. Some inundated sections of trail had great elevated (and bouncy!) Log/plank bridges. Others did not.
I made it about 8km in before having to get the shoes wet again. Just over the top of my socks, but more than enough to fill the shoes. Firm base if you stick to the middle though.
I had just overtaken Karen when I decided to pull up in a little patch of sun for lunch. She had left camp at least an hour before me but had stopped herself and just got going again when I reached her so she continued on.
Afternoon fell pretty quickly mostly through wetlands and fairly flat. Feet did get werlt a few more times though. Made itnto camp at 12:20 to find a NOBO hiker (19km for him) so it was good to ask about the upcoming track conditions.
By the end of the evening a few more strolled in, including two near dusk. We enjoyed our last campfire (total fire ban from here south) and had a really good view of the stars from the bridge that crossed the river at camp. 9 at camp tonight, 8 in the hut. Earplugs at the ready...
Day 35
Surprisingly the only thing that woke me during the night (other than needing a pee...) was some very heavy rain. Not sure how long it lasted because I fell back asleep fairly quick. Everything outside was pretty drenched, including the 2nd table. Which made the single table under cover very crowded for breakfast.
Everyone seemed to be having a slow start today, myself included only getting away at 745. The trail was along 4wd tracks for at least the first 13km so the distance fell quick but felt a little monotonous. Did see some flying duck orchids though enjoying the sun.
Another bonus is that there wasn't any more puddles to wade through so the shoes fully dried. Might be short lived though, according to NOBO hikers tomorrow for us will be the most flooded. Stopped for smoko break at 10 and made it to camp just before 12...
No fires allowed anymore as its all National Park and coastal. The afternoon was spent mostly playing cards and pondering if I should have just pushed on for an extra 21km (41km total) to the next hut. A few people pushed on to wild/bush camp but its discouraged by the BTF https://www.bibbulmuntrack.org.au/the-track/faqs/
Q: Can I camp between campsites?
A: No camping (free camping) is permitted between Bibbulmun Track campsites, where there is no official designated campsite, in National Parks, Conservation Parks or Nature Reserves. This also applies to water catchment areas - ie most of the Track between Kalamunda and Collie, and south of the Blackwood River.
Relaxing with the view from Mt Chance isn't a bad way to spend an afternoon anyway.
5 of the 8 at the hut tonight decided to head back up for dinner/sunset. Its not very far and 25m elevation but fairly steep. Unlike Girraween though its granite is nice and grippy, not polished smooth like The Pyramid. 2 are tenting tonight, leaving 6 in the hut (one NOBO.)
Day 36
It was a bit warm last night kicked off the thermal layers and still had the sleeping bag half open. People were up early and I got going 710am. There were a few inundated sections but easy to get around.
After 7.5 ish k there was a side trail up to Mt Pingerup. Not far and only 170m elevation gain, without the pack, easy. On the way up I saw my first Dugite (snake) but jt slithered off before I could get the phone out. The view from the top was amazing. Well worth it.
The second half of the track was soggy most of the way. Longest ford through a swamp was about 300m. The wettest track was about 6km from camp and lasted until I was within a kilometre. Mostly only shin deep but the occasional sink hole that was up to the knee.
Up behind the hut was another good granite outcrop with a great view over Broke Inlet. Anorher NOBO hiker tonight who tented as did Sarah and Tanya, so 5 for the shelter from the 8 total. A few of us went back up for dinner at sunset but with some cloud cover blocking the view it wasn't as good as last night.
Day 37
Double hut today so I was keen to get away early... Ended up being the 2nd out of camp at 645. The NOBO hiker headed off 5min prior. The first 2-3 km out from camp were still wetland areas and required some nimble water dodging.
Luckily thanks to some well placed branches (by others) and one very convenient ant mound I was able to keep my socks dry. Past the wetlands and into the dunes turned the track into dry sand. Fairly vegetated though so still fairly firm under foot.
It wasn't until I was within 1.5k of the beach that the sand shifted away from grey to a more golden colour that it started to sink underfoot. I made Mandalay Beach by 9am and stopped at one of the lookouts (dirt road access looked 2wd accessable) to empty some sand out if the shoes. But wasted because the next section is along the beach...
Soft dunes to get down and despite it being an outgoing mid-tide I was still sinking at least 2 inches into the wet sand. Would hate to be doing this with a really heavy pack... Ahead was the much discussed 'super difficult' sand dunes ascent. I was picturing a kilometre long soft sand blow... but found a vegetated dune valley.
It was still soft sand, which definitely sapped my energy, but nothing like I imagined it would. The trouble wasn't so much it I think, but the 2 dozen or so other sand dunes after it. A mix of softer sand on some of them but constant up and over and down then up in the full sun definitely made me feel the last 5km into lunch.
Long Point shelter, at 18km, was a good place to stop in the shade and get some more water... which I had finished on the second last sand dune. It was very refreshing to wash off the sweat from my face and chug down some water. Lunch was great too.
I took a bit longer than usual for lunch to let some of the heat of the day pass. There was also a short (1.4km return) track to the rocky headland for which the shelter is named. Whats another 25min on a double hut day?
After an almost 3 hour break it was time to get moving again. The trail was still winding over sand dunes. A bit firmer than the last stretch but still plenty of sections that were soft. Then you turn straight up a steep hill, with steps, which are always fun. Good to get the heart pumping.
You Roller-coaster along the top for a while and enjoy the ocean breeze. Very nice to cool down after the hot climb. On the descent I collected enough sand in each shoe to make a reasonably sized sand castle... Luckily there was a boot washing station (to help prevent Dieback disease) with a seat so I could empty them for the 4th time today...
It got fairly firm from there and before long we were in the trees again. Towering Tingle Gum trees started to appear as the ground shifted from sand to soil. Once over another suspension bridge you jump straight into the Mt Clare climb. Almost 200m of gain in just under 1.5km. I reached camp just after 430pm with my shirt soaked with sweat.
No view from camp as were surrounded by more Tingle trees and other scrub. Nice spot, but at just 10km from Walpole it looks like most people press on. I was more than happy to stop! Easy day into town in the morning might even catch the cafe still serving the breakfast menu.
Day 38
Got away by 710am to head down Mt Clare and reach Walpole for breakfast. The true summit was about 300m from the hut but didn't really offer any impressive view. There was a small gap in the trees to the north so I'm glad I didn't make the effort to try catch sunset here last night.
Most of the way down was a fairly smooth gentle slope. Just the occasional steep bit down and a few surprising ups. Mid way there was another lookout with a slightly better view. Mid way it transitioned back from the tall Tingle trees to open wetland scrub but it was still in the cool of the morning so not bad.
I continued along the wetland walk which crossed Walpole River and had a few boardwalk sections before you get onto a Sewer main maintenance road for the final 1.5k into town. Reaching the visitor centre just after 9 I found out that Western Power were doing work on the main town line... which has left the town without mains power from "8-5"
Luckily the cafe had backup gene and I was still able to get the 'Big Breakfast' which was fantastic. Onto accom with the power still out so we setup in the common room with the indoor fire and listened to Aaron (19 yo) play some absolute classics on the piano as I got my butt kicked in Trivial Pursuit.
Late afternoon the power finally came back on so we were able to do washing and have showers! Charging electronics was also handy. We forwent the pub meal in favour of a charcuterie board for dinner.
Still plodding along. Good on you Scott.
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