Bibbulmun Track - Day 45 - 48

Day 45

Woke up around 6am and toasted some Fruit & Spice muffins I had bought for breakfast. Unfortunately the boat across Wilson Inlet wasn't running this week. Its primarily a fishing charter boat, but the operator is in Perth the whole week.  

With the Bibbulmun Foundation and WA Parks declaring a TEC (Threatened Ecological Community) over the peninsula on the eastern side walking is no longer a valid option. Luckily Mark from the Blue Wren YHA offers a taxi service around to the other side. 

I jumped in with a German couple who took a rest day yesterday and we all left just before 8. We made the first drop point (where the track crosses Eden Road) after about 30min where they hopped out, but I had asked to be dropped at Pelican Point, a further 8.5km track distance, where the boat would normally land. Beautiful spot.  

I thought I would stop at Nullaki camp (14.2km) because of the later start and mucking around... but it seems that the BTF also count the boat ride as Track distance, cutting 5km off. The track follows the edge of the Inlet and is pretty flat easy walking. While sandy its covered in vegetation/grass.. doesn't seem to get much use... 

It wasn't long until I passed the first drop point where immediately the wear on the track was very noticeable. When dropping me off Mark mentioned that barely 5% do the extra 8.5k. I figured it wasn't that much in the grand scheme of things. Getting to Nullaki just past 10am I stopped for smoko but quickly made the decision to push on a further 17k to West Cape Howe. 

Back into the sandy dune climbs but at least there was no rain last night and the overgrown plants were dry! I spotted a few snakes a large Dugite, a smaller greenish snake with a triangle shaped head and a little spotted brown guy that I later confirmed was a legless lizard. 

Around a few more bends and over a few more hills I spotted a few more Spider Orchids again. Then eventually found myself at Lowlands Beach. 200m off track to the lookout with a toilet, water tank, table and shade for a break. 2wd vehicle accessable (gravel road) and a beautiful spot. 

I didn't stay too long before pushing on the last 4.5km to camp where Roman and Carina (German couple) were already setup. Another couple Ian and Eleanor, just doing Denmark > Albany, arrived a few hours later and set up a tent making just 3 for the hut. 5 total. 

There was a pretty awesome spot for views up behind the hut on a small knoll. There was just the right amount of clouds to make for a very pretty sunset. It was pretty windy and very cold though, but probably lt worth it. 

Day 46

It was a cold windy morning and despite the epic view last night I wasn't brave enough in the morning to get out of my sleeping bag and watch the sunrise. Despite being last out of bed I was still first on trail by 715am. 

Shorter day today, just 16km. The trail in parts is pretty over grown with stiff and spikey shrubs so my shins copped quite a few scrapes and scratches. I saw a few more spider orchids which are really beautiful and as I crested a hill was able to see the 18 Turbines that make up the Albany Wind farm. Not far from the end now...  

It was a good sunny day so there were also quite a few snakes about. There was a recently partially maintained stretch (near a 4wd access) where i saw 5 Crowned snakes within a stretch of just 100m. Over the morning I saw about 6 Dugite slither off into the bush and I heard at least a dozen more snakes or lizards scurry off in a hurry.  

I made camp before 11am to find 2 hikers stopping for smoko. They had done a 10k (20 return) side trip down to the point of West Cape Howe and stayed in a camping spot there. More thoughts about pushing on as its only 12k for the next hut, then 12 more the one after which I planned to combine tomorrow.  

In the end I decided to stay, there's another Inlet crossing close by and I would prefer to hit this one at a lower tide in the morning. I made a good choice because apparently "Brenda the Quenda" (Bandicoot) is a frequent visitor here and she made an appearance just before 2pm. I also had phone service so I was able to book the bus, plane and accommodation in Albany and Perth to get me home. It really is getting close to the end...  

Same 5 from the hut last night, though Ian and Eleanor took their time not reaching the hut until about 330pm, again setting up their tent. A bit later another 4 rolled in, Parents and their 2 adult kids. Mark and Camilla I met in Denmark. Mark was resting a sore hip and was struggling pretty bad, so they hitched from near Nullaki hut past West Cape Howe and were dropped a few hundred meters from here. 

A small lookout is just behind the hut again but nothing like the views last night and mostly closed in by trees. I also discovered that despite putting sunscreen on I mustn't have used enough and my arms got a little pink...  

Day 47

Busy hut in the morning meant a bit of noise. Since I was awake early I got away before 7. At the 2k mark there is a day use area for the beach with bins so I was able to ditch rubbish. The weight of the wrappers isn't much but the psychological benefits not carrying it give a bit of a boost.  

The beach was fairly flat and with the outgoing tide fairly firm. Bit of kelp washed up that was still easy to avoid. I skipped across a small creek 1.5km in and managed to keep the feet dry before eventually reaching the Torbay inlet. I took the shoes off and waded across, thigh deep. 

After the Inlet the tall dunes and steep beach returned. I kept the shoes off but with the slope and compact sand would have been better in shoes. At the end of the beach there was a lookout and a seat which was a good opportunity to dust off sand and re-shoe. 

Back up on the sand dunes but the trail is fairly compact and well maintained. I made the Mutton Bird hut at 930am, good thing I'm double hutting today. 

After leaving the hut you get close to the Albany Wind Turbines. Massive massive machines. As you wind along the coast past them there are numerous view points displaying a beautiful coastline. 

I made the next, and last, hut just after 1pm. I went up the small lookout behind it and was there maybe 15min before it started to drizzle. By the time I had returned to the hut it was showers and moments after I was safe heavy rain. 

4 others showed up a little later, not so lucky. Cold rain and wind... I was cold without being wet!! My first day was raining, why not the last night too....? 

Day 48

It was windy and stormy all night. Quite a bit of rain on and off. The wind blew all the still dry sand under the shelter over anything left out and the occasional swirl of wind would carry some rain in sideways too! 

Checking the Radar overbreakfast there were heaps of small patches of rain coming in from the ocean but no real big banks. So j got ready and, as luck would have it, it started pissing down... After 2min there was another gap though and I got away.  

The first few km fell quick and it wasn't long before I got my first good view of Albany. The trail flowed pretty smoothly down to the waters edge where I soon met a bitumen bike/huke path. Clipped the poles away and dirch rubbish in a convenient bin and continued along the waters edge. Its really beautiful if you ignore the road on your left. 

After you cross a railway line its back up another hill (last one for good measure?) Where I partially regretted not having my poles handy... Then your basically in town. A few local streets later before you cross the park and reach the Southern Terminus. 

I had made pretty good time, arriving at 9. With the visitor centre not open until 10 it gave me plenty of time to find the Coach House cafe and sit down for a massive 'Aussie Breakfast'. Then it was back up York Street a little to officially ring the bell and sign the final trail logbook. 

I'm now sitting at the restaurant under my accom for the night until the room is ready. Plan was to buy some "Travel home" clothes... but apparently most things are shut on Sunday in Albany... My merino shirt will have to do for the bus and I'll pick up something in Perth before my flight. 

Bus tomorrow morning leaves at 9 and takes most of the day. So Perth for a night before flying home and returning home. There are a few hikers that just finished last 2 days, a few more I was with last night and others that will double hut in today. The plan is a dinner and catch-up/good bye before we all go on our separate ways.  

As always bitter-sweet endings. Some great company has made this yet another memorable hike. I'll be sure to make a toast to many many more tonight. 

Happy trails.