Diving - 2023 04 - Munda (Solomon Islands)

 

Day 1 - Travel

Long day of travel today with an early start. 9am flight so I aimed to get to the airport 630. Mum was going to take me to the airport but was feeling unwell so dad took up the task. He wanted to be on time, so arrived at my place 2min after my alarm went off.
I wasn't yet ready. 

Hardly any traffic, surprisingly given it was Good Friday... Check in opened just as I arrived and there wasn't a queue yet. A few others already here so we grabbed breakfast and 'supplies' (duty free scotch) and hung about for a while. 

Then the flight was delayed (almost 1hr total) so we hung out for a while more. Flight was with Solomon Airlines and it went well, despite the initial hick-up. Food was actually really good, beef curry and rice, with kitkat for desert. We landed and were slapped in the face with 35° heat and a stroll across hot tarmac. The customs building wasn't much better.

When we landed we got rushed through Immigration as we were already ~20min past boarding time for our next domestic flight. Small bus to take us from the International shed around to the domestic shed (and shed is generous) but really friendly and helpful staff made it easy. We got through pretty quick to a small plane that needed much better aircon.  

 

1hr later touched down again and then we got to hang out on the plane, in the heat. A few hopped off a few more hopped on. Then 12min flight time, yes, twelve minutes, and we arrived in Munda! Gotta love the puddle jump travel getting to dive sites. The accom was about 300m away from the airstrip so our gear was loaded in a ute and we strolled down. 

Still hot from the plane and tin shed arrival gate we got a brief intro to the dive team and given our room keys. SNR and I together in a room we ditched our stuff, got changed and jumped into the water to cool down. The 28° water... Still with a cold SolBrew (local beer) it was quite refreshing. 

The others trickled in over the next hour some down for a swim, others just for the beer/wine. There was also an American traveller who's bag came off at the Gizo mini-stop... so they were making calls and apparently sending a boat (2hr boat one way) to bring it out. Not much choice except the resort menu so I had a pork curry for 150 Solomon dollars, about 30 AUD. Beers are about $5 AUD each. Good serving size and all the service staff are really nice. 

 

Off back to the reasonable but basic room for one of the worst showers I have ever had the displeasure of standing under. Beds were firm but seemed fairly comfortable and the small wall mounted aircon seemed loud but up to the task of keeping us cool. Set the alarm for an early ish rise and fell asleep pretty quickly.

Day 2 - Diving!

Up fairly early in the morning for a good breakfast before getting down to the dive shop at 8am for our briefing. Pretty comprehensive dive brief, apparently we're the first big group here since covid close downs. 

Split us into 3 boats, I jumped in with Gary x2, Marg and Tracey. Short boat ride out to Eagles Nest for our first dive, along a wall. It was a checkout dive so the guide was over cautious checking air etc. After 15min he asked for my air, I replied 180 bar, basically full (if you get a hot fill...) Which prompted surprise in his eyes. The others were much the same (or better.)

The rest of the dive wasn't too bad but definitely not the most exciting I've ever had. A few Nudibranch, possibly a new one. 1 black tip reef shark that seemed to keep hanging around us and a sole Eagle Ray which disappeared into the blue. 

 

Surface interval on an island with some fresh ish fruit. Watermelon, banana, cucumber and pomelos. Before long we were back on the boat to Patu GoGo for another wall dive and much of the same. Few nudis some fish etc but not overly exciting. They are the easier / closer dives for the check out dives so hopefully things can only improve.  

 

 

Back on the main island some of us took a stroll into the 'shops' which were 3x convenience stores with much of the same load out. Some knock off Sour Cream Pringle's were pretty good though. Good sunset and a nice dinner before turning in for bed.

Day 3 - Moar diving!

A bit of an easier start this morning as we didn't have an overly involved pre-dive brief. It still took a little while though, and when people started to get into a discussion about preferences for dive weight setup I interjected asking when we were heading out. I was happy with the 'Right now' answer from Belinda.

First dive we dropped on Barry's Breakfast which is a good plateau sitting around 18m deep. We swam around a bit looking at a few cool schools of Barracuda before following an underwater Ridge towards an island. At one point I was off the edge into the blue a little and had an Eagle Ray swim right by me.  

 

 

Surface interval on the island with some fruit before heading out to Blue Pajamas for the 2nd dive. We did have another site picked out but the weather was *horrible* (5kt winds and 200mm, yes millimetres, chop) so we went to a protected site. Not seeing many Nudibranch this trip but a few Morays kept this dive interesting. I do like a good wall to gently follow along with though, so still enjoying the dives.  

 

 
Because of the /strong winds/ and an apparent wind warning the third dive for the day was panned. Looked like a mirror surface from after lunch for the rest of the day... Still we filled in the time with a few beers and many fun rounds of 500 (card game.) A fancy yacht pulled up and a dozen or so people came in for dinner. Provided a bit of a comedy show watching them get to/from their yacht on Stand Up Paddle Boards. There was also a band that played for Sunday night. 

Day 4 - The depths continue

First dive was out on Haipe Reef on the ocean side of the island. They had some bad storms 3 weeks ago here and you could tell which direction they were hit from. Lots of broken coral etc. A few different Nudi (for this trip) but nothing new new for me. 

 

 

While scouting for Pygmy Seahorse (of which we found none) I located a cool pipe fish. There was also apparently a turtle that I missed out in the blue. Near the end there were a few more Nudi and a nice Painted Cray.

Different island for the surface interval today to the island that was the operations base for J.F.Kennedy during WW2. They had a small museum with some rusty trinkets and a few little markers for old bunker and watch sites. Our dive boat anchors used to hold the boats for our surface stays are fairly interesting, just the largest chunk of metal they can find. Heads of sledge hammers, big cogs from trucks or any other random bit of steel. 

 

The next dive was a bit deeper, 28m down for a very short dive on the Airacobra plane wreck. Not too much to see so time limited wasn't an issue. Then off to the Douglas Bomber for a residual air dive. Again small plane but there were some cleaner shrimp, more nudi and another pipe fish. 

Back for lunch and yet another dive brief as conditions have changed so significantly since the morning... We eventually headed back to the boat to get out to Munda Bar. A man made channel for the bigger ships during the war. The Arvo dive was off to another pretty but nothing spectacular wall dive. A good cow tail Ray, a few nudi, an eagle ray and a few white tip reef sharks... maybe we're just spoiled...

 

Some bad luck happened for Boat 3. An extra solo diver who has been along with us on the dives followed a shocking depth profile (only been diving 6 months) got low on air, tangled herself in a failed SMB launch and bobbed up to the surface.

New to diving she started thinking she had the bends (no physically visible symptoms) Munda Dive took the (suitably) cautious route and put her on oxygen. By dinner she was fine but going to skip the morning dives as a precaution.

Day 5 - The dark depths

Another perfectly calm morning to head out for some diving. First up today for our boat is Aussie Point. A great wall with clear blue ocean to dive along. Spent a lot of time looking for pygmy seahorse with no luck but I did see a new nudi species, didn't get a clear pic but I pointed it out to Tracey and it looks like she did, I sure couldn't with my setup. 

Swimming along there wasn't much off out into the blue today but we did see some bump head parrot fish and a bit more soft coral on the wall injecting some much needed colour into the trip. As we were approaching our surface stop SNR spotted a small flat worm that was really motoring along. 

 

 

Surface interval on Ndokendoke Island. Which was only 200m away from our second dive. Cave time! Kustom Shark Cave is a small sink hole that starts a short 20m walk into the island. We geared up and were very careful as we descended to 20 ish m. From there we followed along a crack in the island. About 4m tall and 2m wide. 

 

Still on a slight decline down to 34m before a sharp up-tick. Near vertical ascent before it opened up into a cavernous area at about 19m deep. From there you pop you out towards the ocean. I'm not sure why it is, but I always feel at home/peace in those sorts of confined environments. Luckily everyone was on their A-Game so there was also very little silt kicked up.

Back to the main island for lunch and a bit of relaxation time. Some people looked at wood carvings, Nelly tried to get some work done, others went for the short walk to the shops. Some read, some napped and some just stared at the calm blue water. No arvo dive today, as we were all saving ourselves for the Night dive. 

Heading out for the night dive with some dark clouds off in the horizon. We dropped in on Susu Hite Reef and I got a bit concerned at the start as it was just bare sand. 4min later and we were on a bit of reef structure and the real dive started.

Quite a bit of night life out tonight with a few octopus, crabs and crocodile fish getting about. Highlights for me were the rather large cuttle fish and the spanner crab that I found. Dive was a bit short with a 40min bottom time but the real adventure started when we hit the surface.  

 

Pouring rain  meant that we couldn't see any lights on the mainland... or any island... The skipper took a bearing to the island behind us and set off. It wasn't long before we were bouncing the bottom of the boat over reef. We eventually made it past that and found a marker (still no lights in sight) and sat, waiting for boat 2 that was stuck, having to walk it over the reef. 

Eventually the rain eased up and we saw the lights on the horizon, guiding our way home. Rain the whole time waiting but at least it wasn't cold, we almost doubled out bottom time before we got back. To be honest the worst part was probably the solo diver, who was on with us for the night dive, deciding to serenade us. She didn't have the best singing voice.

Day 6 - Rusty fun

We headed off on a 45mi  boat ride NW of the resort. Along the way we passed the Tuna processing plant which necessitated blocking the noses for a good 2min. Not too much later we made if to the first site. The Wildcat plane wreck was sitting around 16m upside down. Not a whole lot to see on the plan itself but it was funny to see the wheels pointing towards the sky. From there we continued on the reef on a site called Alice in Wonderland. 

A lot more Nudi on this dive, even if they were mostly the same. Heaps and heaps of Lettuce Leaf coral, which felt a bit like leather. Snr found a nice white nudi which posed for few pics. This site was alot more colourful too as there was a bit more soft coral about.  

 

 

Surface interval was on as island near the next site. A nice little jetty build on the steep steep bank. There was a pretty mangy puppy hanging about begging for scraps. His mum was over too covered in sores and constantly scratching. Most avoided giving it any pats... 

Second dive was a Japanese support ship, the Kashi Maru. We dropped in right off the jetty as one of the smoke stacks was poking out of the water. Top of the wreck at 3m and bottom about 19m. A bit to see on this one but I was most excited by the engine room. JNR joined me as we penetrated a bit into the wreck to get a closer look. We didn't get too far before it was beyond what was safe to continue so we backtracked out.  

 

On the deck was a nice whip coral shrimp and a few anemone. Back up the steep slope to the surface. After the rain  last night and today the top 2m was at least 3°c cooler than the ocean temp which felt /really/ cold. On the boat in cold gear, wind and rain the whole way back. We were definitely feeling the cold. Our (local) guide was shivering and covered in goosebumps.  

Arvo dive was called off because of the wind/rain. It was probably still less than 5kt winds again and the rain was barely spitting... better safe than sorry I guess. We passed the time with more cards and maybe a few beers... 

Day 7 - Last day diving.

Saving the best for last we headed off to Shark Point. On the outside of the island chain a deep wall promising lots of pelagic and great visibility. Well at least we had great visibility... 

The dive was a nice calm drift along the wall. Some saw a shark or two early off in the depths, likely a black tip reef shark. I was tail end Charlie for much of the dive so didn't see those. I still spent a bit of time looking for nudibranch without much success.

Eventually we got to the point and a few of us with reef hooks locked in and sat in the, now moderate, currant. Sitting for about 15min and I saw 1 white tip reef shark. Eventually it was time to move on and more of the same around the point. Great diving and fairly good coral just a hard time finding anything that would make the diving special.  

 

As were flying out tomorrow it was only the one dive today. To fill in some time we had pre-arranged a trip to Skull Island. This was a burial island that included the skull of one of the last kings of the Munda Provence area. A practice discontinued after the arrival/spread of christianity.

Some of these skulls were trophies from inter-island conflicts back in the day but others were tribute/memorials to revered friends and families. One skull was the great grandfather of our main dive guide. A pretty sombre location.  

 

 
From there it was off to another island for a traditional lunch. BBQ fish was the main but it was supported by some nice creamed banana, they have oner 100 varieties of banana they regularly eat, most of them fantastic! Best one was the one with an orangish tinge in the flesh. Some cassava root and sweet potato to round out the banana leaf plate.

Back to the main island to rinse and dry gear... so of course it was overcast with scattered showers. The Guides rinsed all the gear and hung it up to try dry but there wasn't much luck. When we took our gear out of the dive shop to hand at our rooms most found a bit of water still in the bladders. Enough to fill a drink cup in mine.

The group used a bit of the spare time in the afternoon to run up to the hospital and deliver our "Pack for a Purpose" items. We chose mostly useful consumables. Simple items but supplies that can be included easily to an understaffed hospital. Mostly testing kits etc. The Doctor (one of only 2, that run a 24hr hospital) was very thankful. 

 

Thanks Coralie for the pics.

Back at the hotel there was more cards in the evening before our last dinner. They had a BBQ going and most got it with plenty of Painted Crayfish on the plate to go around. $30 aud for more than most could eat. After finishing off the remainder of our duty free grog it was time for bed. 

Day 8 - Homeward bound

Last day on the island so a bit of a sleep in before breakfast. Then it was time to settle up our dive and restaurant bills and pack the gear. Due to the unfortunate wind warnings (which seemed to be set off at anything over 5kt winds) I didn't get in many extra dives. Only the night dive. However there was also the reef tax and fuel surcharge, which was the same regardless if it was a 15min or 45min trip on the boat... with 12 people it's a drawn out process.

Total extras for me:

• Alcohol - $650 SBD
• Food - $1820 SBD
• Diving - $310 AUD

After the lines (and slow eftpos machines) it was a speedy pack before loading the truck with gear and following it for the short walk off to the airport. When we arrived we found the first 40min delay of the day, it was amazing to wait for 1.5 hours in the extremely modern departure lounge. 

 

Puddle jump flight to Gizo was as expected, aircon struggling to keep up. Only 15min flight time so no snack. Another long wait on the plane sitting on the tarmac with struggling aircon and some jostling for seats. 1/2 the plane has assigned seats but not the other half, so you just sit anywhere... some people struggle with the concept. The coconut biscuit for a snack wasn't very exciting.

Into the newly renovated Honiara international (departure) airport to glorious aircon. Nelly got pulled up at security because of a 50ml bushman's roll-on and a few had water taken but the rest made it through without too much fanfare. Because the first flight was delayed and we took a bit of time getting checked in and through security/immigration we only had ~10min in the departure lounge before our flight home was called.

Another huge group rushed the gate, so that they could be stuck on the plane for an extra 10min.. I guess? Flight went well and the food was good again. Landing only 20 or so min late we got our bags and said our goodbyes before making our way home.

All that's left is to unpack the still damp and very smelly dive gear, give it a good vinegar soak and wash/rinse... but that can be left until tomorrow. 

Another great URGQ trip, smooth sailing thanks to the great organisation by Nelly and everyone helping out as we went!!

 

 

Hiking - 2023 03 - Overland Track

 

Pre Trail -
Having done all the packing the night before all that was left was to cook up a nice bacon breakfast and wait for our lift to the Airport. Mum came to drop us in and is also going to take care of some of the more dramatic pot plants when were gone. 

Ride in was pretty good but the Virgin baggage drop was moving very slowly. A few were complaining at the staff, as if it were their fault, and others on a Perth flight were called to the front to rush them through. Time enough for lunch before jumping on our flight to Launceston. The on flight entertainment was a bit choppy and laggy but the flight went ok.

After a 15min taxi we made it to the Pod Inn. Its a backpackers but with individual Pods to sleep in. Thin plastic though so not at all sound proof. Out for dinner but stopping into the Kingsway Whisky bar on the way. Trying out a few new Tasmanian drops to pack out on the hike. The guys running the place were really helpful and had some good advice.   

  

 

Day 0 - Launceston Preparation
Slept in a little, at least they're light proof. Over breakfast talking to another guest who pointed us in the direction of Cataract Gorge. A nice short warm up walk we could do from here. Beautiful gorge and a cool old suspension bridge my mum visited (pre-kids) in 1976. I tried to recreate the photo but I don't think I did so well matching the attire or hair. . .  

Back along the Zig-Zag track which involves a pretty decent hill and a lot of steps. Into town to grab some hiking gas and lunch. Another Whisky bar with new options. On the way back to the Pod inn we stopped in at Crown Cellars to grab supplies. They were also super helpful and had tasters. Ended up spending a bit more than my usual selection but how often do you hike the Overland and turn 40 (yep, I'm old) in the same year?  

Day 1 - Launceston to Waterfall Valley hut.
Up at 530am for breakfast to be ready for a 620am bus (Overland Track Transport.) We were the last (of 8) to hop in. Was good because that meant we were were off straight away instead of weaving around town for other pickups. 

The driver was impressed with how light the packs were, mine being close to 14kg (...with no water yet). Which is heavy for me; So much food 😓 But that will allow us to do the side trips at least. He said that often hikers are well over 20kg... when we jumped in one of the hikers asked if we were experienced trekkers.... I mentioned that I'd done one or two decent hikes...

As the conversation went on over the long drive a few of my notable hikes came out which generated some good discussion. The driver did well to chat and alleviate some hikers fear of the trail, having done it 20 times himself it was good knowledge to hear. With a jovial delivery. 

We arrived around 10am and did a briefing. They checked out our gear, but not very thorough, made us watch a vid on hypothermia and then sent us on our way. The shuttle bus we were on had something wrong with its gear box which meant the bus behind us (on the supposed 15min journey, with 15mim between departures) caught up... 

The hike starts on a boardwalk nice and calm but quickly ascends past some nice small waterfalls and a good lake. Steep rocky steps, with chain assist, later and we were on Marion's lookout for a break. Bit cold in the wind so not long before we headed off.  

Kitchen hut, emergency shelter, was a good spot to drop packs and summit Cradle Mountain. Pace was a bit slower up the steep scramble and ultimately I pushed on  solo to bag the peak. Amazing view and obligatory Survey Marker...  

Back down to the hut just snacks for a late lunch we pushed on the remaining 5k to Waterfall Valley hut. Arriving just before 6pm (sunset 750 ish, so plenty of light) to find most other hikers (that stayed near Cradle Mountain last night) already spread out. Bottom platforms taken but plenty of room up top. I didn't appreciate that one person was taking up 5 (five!) Pack hooks. He had pack, shirt, poles, gloves and his hat. All on separate hooks!

Room was pretty stuffy with all the bodies so we cracked a small window before dinner. Good pasta side for me and a chat with a hiker from Germany who apparently had a *very through* pack shake-down, and was forced to buy a rain jacket to replace her poncho! Lucky they didn't see my Frogg Toggs. . . 

With teeth done and the fading light we decided to turn in, just as it had started to rain on the 30m walk to the outhouse. We found the room windows closed, guess people like stuffy... I was in my hiking shorts and a base layer top and sweating... don't have to worry about being too cold...

Day 2 - Waterfall Valley to Windemere
The original plan was for us to double back 1km to the Barn Bluff turn off and then do a 7km return side trail, and scramble, to the summit. More exposed but similar climb to Cradle Mountain... the view of bluff was non-existent. Wind, rain, exposed scramble? We gave it a miss... 

It was already 930 before we worked up the courage to step out into the rain. Time to check out the old 4 bed hut (glad were in the new one...) before continuing on. Not the best views today but a few clear openings. At the lake Will Junction it was at least 40km winds and sideways rain, so we decided to skip it. Seeing a few other beautiful lakes on the way.

Just before we reached the hut a Ranger out in the rain stopped for a permit check... pretty keen in this weather. Less than 5min later we were at the hut. 11am with Sam and Simon leaving just after us and arriving with us. 1.5 hour hike, not bad for a sign posted 3hr journey... good to be out of the rain and wind for lunch.   

 

 The others trickled in over the next 2-3 hours, cold and wet. Though after lunch there was a glimpse of hope and even some small openings of blue sky. So much so that a group decided to go for a swim. Mad. Without a volunteer in the house to keep some in check they found the gas heater timer button. Right next to the "Do not use if temperature is greater than 10°c". I don't think it made it long enough to run out of running time before someone hit it again. Even though the room was 25° + and stuffy. A few of us opting to rug up in the cold outside rather than sweat in the common room... One hiker had some torn up feet so we did a bit of care with draining the high pressure blisters and treating the others. Fix-a-mole did the trick hopefully. Some of us played some card games to kill the time before eventually eating dinner and heading to bed. 

Day 3 - Windemere to Pelion Hut.
Another rainy morning but a bit quicker to pack up. Just as we were ready to leave we saw some sunlight break through the clouds and the rain stop. We took off the rain jackets but before we could put them away and get our packs on it started again... so out they came... 

Longer day today 16.8km to the hut. Cold. Windy. Wet. Track was often a stream and the forested sections were muddy. There was some small breaks in the clouds though offering sole good views. Everyone else was in heavy rain pants but I still seemed to be going ok in shorts.  Luckily there were also many boardwalk sections... though some abruptly ending...  

The day dragged on a bit and the slippery roots in the forest sections and wet rocks everywhere else were a drain on energy. My partner slowed towards the end due to the more difficult terrain so we dropped back the pace a little. Still fast enough to catch and overtake the guided group wandering along.

Pelion Hut is an older hut and not as warm, but there is still a gas heater to take the chill out of the air. Getting out of the wet clothes is always a good feeling and lunch always helps too. More started to arrive also happy to be rid of the rain. Which was now getting worse. 

About 4pm a hiker wandered in shivering and very cold, possibly verging on developing hypothermia. People jumped to action making hot drinks and helping get her into a sleeping bag. She was one of 4 with the 2nd arriving soon after and the other 2 last seen ~2hrs ago, including the one with the sore foot...

As others were deliberating a course of action Cathlyn started getting ready to head out and not wanting anyone to go off alone I joined her. We started back down the trail with a light jog and only made it about 20min before finding the pair, cold and weary but in high spirits. Alison was very happy to take up my offer to carry her pack. I think she was shouting yes even before I had finished asking the question... 

As we were getting them warm Linda who arrived earlier was feeling better and warmed significantly. By dinner all was fine and talk turned to tomorrows plans. A very friendly ranger popped in and gave us a weather update. 1° colder than today and 25mm rain. On her way off she spotted a wombat so she ducked back to let us know. We only caught a glimpse as it waddled off into a bush.  

Day 4 - Pelion Hut.

We awoke to a snow covered ground. Pretty fresh white snow looked amazing but was a sign that we had to think about plans. The original plan for the day was Mount Oakley but with snow, high wind and predicted rain we decided to take a zero day instead. The Oakley offshoot had us back here anyway so we could still follow our schedule. 

After saying our goodbyes to our hut mates for the last three nights we doubled back down the trail for 15min to visit Old Pelion Hut. A humble 4 bed hut but a great fire place. Still some of the rafters and floor slats had 20mm gaps in them so I'm not sure how well it would hold the heat...  

On the way back the rain came in and we got wet again. Shoes were still soaked from yesterday but stepping in puddles didn't help... Lucky we had a lot of time to dry gear.

By midday we saw the first of the next group arrive and before long it was a full hut again. New 'getting to know you' conversations taking place in the lead up to dinner and Mt Oakley put on an amazing show, lit up by the setting sun. Before long it was time again for bed, rugging up for the cold night ahead.

Day 5 - Pelion Hut to Kia Ora Hut. (+Mt Ossa?¿)
We got away a little earlier today on the rumours of clearing skies late morning. The track out from Pelion Hut is through a beautiful forest with a great (and gushing) creek off to the left for a lot of the climb up to the Pelion Gap Saddle.

We could just catch a glimpse of Mt Ossa through breaks in the clouds and despite an earlier drizzle it wasn't raining on us at that moment... a moment short lived. Despite a stiff wind at the gal we decided to test the waters and hike up the side track. Hoping for conditions to improve.  

They didn't.

We had an ok trek up to Mt Doris, mostly protected from the high winds but crunching snow under foot. We broke through some ice that had formed on the puddles... that should have been enough to make us turn back. However we pressed on. The 'Japanese rock garden' just after you skirt around Doris was amazing.

When we poked out heads outside the protection of Doris we caught a face full of wind. Rain hoods snapped back and if you weren't ready for it the gusts knocked you off balance on the flat! After a very brief deliberation, and just enough time to snap a picture of Ossa before clouds closed in again, we decided there was no chance for a safe summit today and turned back. It rained the whole way back to the saddle. At least the creeks were flowing?  

 A bit disappointing but soon we were warm in the Kia Ora hut and were met with other hikers that went through the same thought process, so at least we weren't alone. In the afternoon we also got some great views of Cathedral Mountain and saw a Wombat with a baby Woman in tow!   

Day 6 - Kia Ora hut to Bert Nichols Hut
Another casual start as it was still drizzling a little bit. We were saddened to learn that one of our fellow hut guests decided they're too weak to pack out their rubbish (seriously, you packed it in full of food... it's LIGHTER NOW!) and dropped it down one of the drop toilets. As most had already set off for the day we could only have our suspicions about who was the absolute bellend that would do something so monumentally rude and selfish. Felt very very sorry for the Ranger that had to now fish it out. 

When we got going we started off in a beautiful mossy forest, enchanting to look at.  It was also nice to be on some of the older sections of boardwalk. Past the boardwalks you still had to keep an eye on where you were placing your feet as it was quite muddy and an errant foot would find itself in a deep hole...

 

It wasn't too long before we met the first side track for some falls. After ditching our packs we set off down a fairly steep path, many tree roots to use as steps. Two separate falls D'Alton and Ferguson split off this trail. The former necessitating were shoes as you have to hop across a small cascades to get there. As you would expect after 4 (Four!!) days of rain the falls were pumping and spectacular. So we had that at least I guess... We pressed further on to Harnett falls and actually caught a glimpse of blue sky on the way. 

A slightly side trail but much less steep. These falls are upstream of the other two. The track drops you right at the head of the falls for a view before winding down, with a few more steps, to below the base. You have to get past a side creek which usually is barely flowing. There was some handy stepping stones... I guess for normal flow... they were knee deep for us...  

Scooting along a rock platform at the edge of the river gets you close to the base of the falls. With the wind and spray I was getting pretty wet... just like yesterday... From there it was a small 150m climb to Du Cane gap and then another path criss-crossed with tree roots to make it to the hut. 

Blue skies and sunshine!! We thought about pushing on but didn't want to push our luck. Rinsed off the socks and set them in the sun, they almost even dried. The helicopter pad made for a good sunbathing platform before clouds eventually closed in again. A very light drizzle but enough to retreat into the hut.  

Dinner inside the hut and a group started trying to get the gas heater running with little success. I wasn't too upset as with our body heat alone it was already 18° inside and I was warm in my layers. They suspected it had ran our of gas... probably from all the other people like them who felt the need to run it when it was already 18°c inside...  We were warned that this hut gets cold overnight but I was pretty toasty in my sleeping bag.

Day 7 - Bert Nichols to Pine Valley (+Labrinth)
We were worried that the long weekend (Labor day) would bring in a lot of weekend hikers and with Pine Valley being a popular spot thought it might get busy. So we got up early and hit the trail at about 745. Along with us this morning was another hiker we met 2nd night at Pelion. Its good to have some fresh conversation and interesting tales. I think it also helped motivate us to put a bit of pep in our step.

A cruisy hike out following a gradual grade down the valley before a right turn into Pine Valley. Similar track with a few nice suspension bridges over rivers. It was also cool to cross some of the old log bridges. Closer to the hut it was the mossy forest again and you follow along a beautiful creak. 

We got into the hut at 1045 to find it already half full, with some of the tent platforms full. After lunch we set off up a decent climb to view the Labyrinth (some cool lakes.) Beautiful vistas along the Ridge at the top and amazing alpine Lakes. Back down the hill, passing hikers heading in with packs to camp the night. It felt like a big climb with just a day pack...  

Back in the now busy hut, fairly loud with people sorting their gear. All the tent platforms were full and a few people were set up further down stream. They have 2 drop toilets here... one locked. Bit surprising for a long weekend... might be a line in the morning...  

Someone decided to get the emergency fire stove going. Seems to be a theme here. Every hut has huge signs saying emergency use only if less than 10°c but there is always that 'someone' that wants to (attempt too...) dry gear. As such it was a bit hot inside, especially with people drying smelly hiking garments... Though not as bad as other nights. It was a relatively small hut too. 

Getting to bed it felt too warm in my sleeping bag but it was too late (and no space...) to retreat to setting up the tent...

Day 8 - Pine Valley to Echo Point Hut
LOUD! Hut this morning. People banging about from 6am (still dark) to get their day hikes in. We slept in a little longer but with the breakfast table no more than 1m from the bunks there wasn't too much sleep to be had, even with ear plugs. 

Back down Pine Valley in the wonderful Moss filled forest before getting back to the overland track on the side of the valley and more scrub bush. We made decent time to Narcissus Hut, where some would catch a ferry to finish their hike at the northern end of Lake Saint Clair. 

Not us though, we had another 5 or so km to make it to the last Hut, Echo Point. Off through more button grasslands before getting back into mossy forest. It wasn't long before we came across proof it was warming up, a Tiger Snake. Much darker for the Tasmanian version.

We got to the very rustic Hut and decided to pitch the tent for the first time on the hike. Before long a boat pulled in, apparently its the boat that also picks up hikers, but they were doing a lake tour so about a half dozen people got to watch me put up the tent... 

Not long after a pair arrived in a Kayak, having paddled over to climb Mt Ida earlier in the day and to camp here on the way back to Cynthia Bay. Two more hikers rolled in later in the day but we were all pretty spread out. A reported Rat problem here had parks install a storage box which was handy and large enough for all to drop packs in. 

The wind was pretty hectic at the Lake edge so we sought shelter in the hut to cook. Gas was getting blown about outside and wasn't doing a great job of heating water. We were mid dinner when another hiker rolled in and set up camp. Just after dinner the wind dropped and it looked like it would be a pleasant night.

Day 9 - Echo Point to Cynthia Bay
After a great sleep in the tent it was time to pack up and complete the last small section of the Overland Track. After breakfast we got started and it was much like yesterday afternoon. An up and down roller coaster with big tree roots as steps. With the occasional muddy hole.

We were told he last section a pretty flat along the western edge of Lake St Clair, just with lots of tree roots. What they don't advertise, and certainly don't emphasise, is that also on the western side of the lake is Mt Olympus. Standing 1472m high.  

The 'edge' of the lake pretty much runs straight up to the top of the mountain. You are constantly hiking up the steep slope to go back down again. Reminiscent of some Bibbulmun sections... with the roots, slope, mud and steps we were only plodding along just over 3.5km an hour. The slower pace did allow us to stumble near a beautiful Tasmanian Tiger Snake though. 

 

 

However 2.5 hours later we started getting close. Its easy to tell when you're near a popular trail head, lots of bushwalkers strolling in jeans. A few minutes later and we were triumphant. Arriving at the Cynthia Bay Visitor centre my first priority was lunch. Others were more excite for flushing toilets... 

The burgers were held in pretty high regard here (as are most fresh cooked meals after multiple days in the bush) and I must admit I too found it tasty. That said it wasn't more exciting than any other burger, hand cut chips were really nice though! 

As we sat down for lunch a few hikers we met along the trail also finished up today so it was good to catch up and say our goodbyes. This trail was a few first timers, who looked keen for more, plus plenty of experienced hikers looking to tick it off the list. It was good to chat over lunch about future plans and potential other hikes. 

 

Another long windy bus ride to get back to Launceston. A few drops before our stop so we got out of the bus around 530pm. We had booked a room at the Grand Hotel. As soon as we walked in the door the lovely receptionist took a look at us weary hikers and said a standard room would not do! After the overland we deserved a soak, so she upgraded us for free to a family room with a Spa they had empty. Champions! 

We immediately went for showers first while it was filling with hot water before jumping in for a well deserved relaxing hit tub soak. Soon though it was time for dinner. We went into Du Cane brewery, recommended by the bus driver, for a great pizza and a nice Pilsner. Another great end to a great hike.

Keen to get back in decent weather and bag the Ossa peak!!