Hiking - 2021 07 - Brisbane Valley Rail Trail

With the world still mostly locked out by Covid travel restrictions something in our own backyard seemed like a good idea. This trail has been in the back of my mind for a while so it seemed like a suitable time to head out and see what its like.  

The BVRT follows a disused railway line starting from Yarraman which lies 150km North West of Brisbane, as the crow flies. It then winds South East down towards Ipswich.  With the twists and turns it winds up just over 161km. Due to a more gentle grade and being well maintained (and very close to towns) its also quite popular with mountain bikers.  

To make it a bit more interesting I've invited my Mum along who has been interested in doing it too. Anyone that knows her will know that she doesn't really slow down. She's active in walking groups and, honestly, hikes more than me! Usually they're shorter bushwalks in a local forest though, not a multi day with a pack on :o  

Pack looking pretty full with 2 sets of Shelter/bed gear inside it :o 

To help things along I'll be carrying the bulk of her gear. Luckily I have a few spares to share... something that runs in the family... Kitted out with my partners pack, her clothes, a mug and day snacks I'll carry her tent, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, FAK and kitchen gear. I'll be under my hoochie so hopefully its not too windy! It shouldn't be too bad weight wise on me as I'll have hardly any food, which is usually the bulk of the pack weight. With towns every day and ample supplies we'll stock up as we go along. Coming in at just over 12kg it's about as heavy as it would be with 3-4 days of food anyway.

Day 0

On the final pack I realised I had left my wide brim hat in my work ute (locked in a work compound) so I grabbed a cap to see me through. I imagine the trail will be a little exposed in parts so j would have preferred way hat... Sunscreen will have to suffice.

Dad has kindly offered to drive us up to Yarraman and after some home made pizzas for lunch and a shakedown (to make sure mum didn't pack too many spare clothes...) we set off just after 2 and were at the Yarraman caravan park by 430. To get settled in we did the loop around the farm adjacent, a nice little 2km with beautiful sunset.  

Day 1

Woke in the cabin about 6:50 and had breakfast before dad dropped us down to the official start of trail.

Its a pretty easy trail to hike, maintained for mountain bikes. Easy grade and pretty wide. We were making good time, about 4.5km an hour.  We dropped in and out of shade but most of the trail is fairly exposed. Good place for a wide brim hat...  

We rolled into Blackbutt by 1230 and stopped at a park shelter for lunch. Famous bakery here, so of course we had to get some pies. The host at Yarraman Campground warned us that a worker might be sick at Benarken so we also picked up a salad roll that could serve us for dinner.  

While waiting on the rolls mum had the pies on the counter and another couple thought they were theirs! So we had some mystery pies. Spaghetti for me and steak and onion for mum (glad I didn't get that one.)  

The afternoon 5k fell really quickly and we were mostly setup at Benarkin just past 3pm. There is a cool breeze but the sun is still warm sordid the feel the need to pull out the thermals just yet. 

Mum was planning to have a shower but they were out of order  the little General Store was open though and did really nice cheese and ham toasties. Said that the showers had been out for at least 6 weeks. Coin operated power points $1 lasted at least 2 hours.  

We didn't make it much past 6 before we were in bed and despite a but of a buffer from the highway the noise travelled well in the cold air. Earplugs recommended.

Day 2

Woke up to a lot of dew on the tent & tarp. Went to wipe some off and it was icy! I knew it was cold but it didn't feel that cold. Mum has my -5°c bag so she was toasty warm. Bit if a late sun rise and a slowish pack to get away at 810am. According to my thermometer we got down to 1.1°c over night.    

Just as we were leaving one of the nomads strikes up a conversation, been in QLD for 5 months and was meant to be heading back but delayed his return. With the packs at the ready though we had to cut the convo short and get going.  

The first dozen k out of Benarkim are pretty shaded by tall trees and a cool breeze that came and went was a bit chilly but overall a good temp. About 9km along there was the old rail camp with some tables and a toilet making a good spot for smoko.  

Pushing onto Linville the trail became rocky and hard underfoot. Much different from leaf little and rainforest duff I was use to. By Linville we both were feeling in on the bottom of our feet and were glad for a rest. 

There was another free camp here, with plenty or caravans, a pub, and a small General Store. Toilets and an outside (cold water) shower. We passed.  Another 7km to Moore, on and off rocky sections, which was camp for the night. Free power, which was good to charge mums phone (she has a lot of friends to keep in contact with!) We were also able to vid call back home and check in. 

We enjoyed a nice dinner at the cafe and then another early turn in. A bit closer to the main drag (~30 meters away...) here so earplugs a must.

Day 3

No frost this morning which was a plus, but there was already a cool breeze. Breaking camp at 815 it was a hundred meters back to link into the trail and off we went. Embarking on the longest day of our trek and mums longest ever days distance. Just on 27km (or so we thought.)   

We're both now really feeling the hard gravelly surface as we walk. Sore feet and arches for us both. The breeze had changed to wind and was quite cold even in the sun. Often blowing us sideways. We welcomed Harlin when we arrived. Just short of 1/2 way for the day. The restaurant at the servo provided good shelter from the wind and decent food, but there was also a BVRT worker interested in a hikers perspective, while offering a history of his own.   

Back on trail after Harlin you take a dog leg over a hill, they mustn't have got permission for the rail corridor in the area as once we re-joined you could clearly see where it previously traversed. A bit further along we reached the Yimbun Tunnel, which was a nice reprieve from wind. Though even inside the tunnel was a rocky surface. I had begun to 'collect' rocks in my shoes. I think I averaged one stuck in a shoe every 3 or so kilometres. 

Through the tunnel we picked another spot out of the wind for a break. 21km down, 6 to go.... Seems the official distance was a bit short here... We had started to really feel it at the 25km mark but knew it was only another 2 so pushed on. Quite a few riders now passing us in the late afternoon getting to town.  

When 27km rolled over on the watch we still had a bit to go., at least another kilometre by the nav on the phone. We made it slowly into town, quite slower for the last km... Mum went to the Pharmacy for some voltaren and fresh blister packs and we decided to treat ourselves (and hide from the wind) in the pub for the night.  

Very busy as there was also a large (~20 strong) cycling group but they squeezed us in. Dinner took a while but was fantastic. Through the conversation of the riders even some of them were finding this section fairly rough, with at least 1 of them deciding to take a day off. Shortly after dinner we retired to the room to do some blister care for mum and then turned in to sleep off a very long days hiking.  

Well done mum!

Day 4

We were already feeling the long day behind us on the rocky surface when we woke up. Packed up and went downstairs for breakfast, a nice spread to chose from so I took raisin toast and Nutra Grain for me. Picked up a piece of fruit for lunch on the way out.  

Stopped into the IGA for some more sunscreen and got chatting to a local about the trail. Lamenting how rocky it was. We were told the next section was "recently redone" and "really good" however I think they had a cycle mindset, not hiking.  

It was recently redone alright. With gravel road base. Compacted and rolled. After another 12km of rocky road walking we made it to a shelter for lunch. Mum is up to 5 blisters now... on just her left foot!  No blisters for me but my feet certainly feel like they've been pummelled.

Despite a few good vistas there wasn't too much to see on the lowlands today. A bull with big horns was about the highlight so far. After another 7km of the same we finally made it to Esk. Just shy of town though we saw a hawk swoop down and snatch a rodent out of a field and fly off to enjoy it's lunch. 

When we had finally settled at camp we made the call that we weren't enjoying the walk on a rough road and decided to call our Trail Angel (Dad) and arrange a lift home in the morning. We enjoyed a nice shower and soaked our feet in the Spa for a little while, unfortunately it wasn't what I would call 'warm' but at least it wasn't cold. I went off into town (only ~700m return) to buy us some Thai for dinner and we enjoyed sitting by the communal fire place in the campground. A couple Caravanning from Vic and a young family up from the Gold Coast were making use of the fire and supplying wood which allowed us to enjoy the warmth before turning into bed.  

Day 5 
No real rush to pack up but we had still broken camp by 730am. Up to the camp kitchen (fully decked out with BBQ's and even Pizza Ovens) to eat some breakfast (Anzac Biscuits and Dried Apricots.) We had arranged meeting dad in the centre town park at 9-930am, so of course we went over at 845, because we knew he would be early... Just as we were waiting to cross the road into the park we saw dad drive up to the park. Good timing! 

A relatively smooth ride home (traffic wise) and most of the day left over to clean gear and dry off the tent and tarp from the morning dew.   

Overall I think the BVRT would be a pretty decent Bike-Packing trail, but I wouldn't personally recommend it for hiking. For hikers, Yarraman to Linville (or maybe only ~10km out of Benarken) was really good, but the rest of the trail will wear on your feet pretty quickly. Everyone in all the towns were great though. Very friendly towns!