Bibbulmun Track - Day 1 - 9

Night before

After lazing about half the afternoon I went up the road again to the pub for dinner. Despite being an ALH hotel (Woolies owned) they wanted $45 for a steak! So I settled for the Parmi instead. 


Day 1 

In what seems to be a rather annoying reoccurring theme to the beginning of my recent hikes, the BOM radar looked like this; 

The track begins by taking you through a nice nature reserve that is littered with a spider network of tracks. There is also an abundance of trail markers though to keep you on the right path. The large granite boulders would make anyone familiar with Girraween feel right at home. 

Wild flowers are already starting to emerge and individually are really pretty but its hard to capture the expanse and colours that run across some hills. Despite the numerous drawbacks of the rain it does provide the opportunity for good creek flows and some nice water falls. 

I got to the first shelter, Hewett's, for smoko just as a hiker Klaus was getting ready to leave. I brought the rain with me though so he waited it out for 10min which gave us a chance to talk. I didn't stay too long, the pub for lunch (what a great trail food) was only 8 ish km away.

I made it to the Mundaring weir (about 20min shy of the pub) just as yet another rain burst hit so I hid in the public loo. Lightning and thunder with this one... it eased off so I set off across the weir, only to get half way before it was raining heavy again.. oh well only 900m more to the pub. Good meals, great people, but still fairly pricey.

From there it was just under 5k to Ball Creek hut. I made it in before 3 and briefly considered another 8km to Helena before it started raining again... here is good, I decided, not wanting to step out into the rain again. The huts are well built if a little drafty, to be expected in 3 wall shelters. 

Roof water collection, seat/tables and platforms for beds. Luxury. I have read a lot of rodent issues though, so I brought the mouse hang kit which I usually don't bother with. Klaus wandered in some time later so I had some company for the afternoon and after 5 we were joined by another hiker who also started in Kalamunda this morning.

It was dark just after 6 and I was snug in my bag before 7. 

Day 2
I started with sunshine and blue skies, which is a real nice thing to wake up too. Slept fairly well despite the shelter noises etc. Broke camp at a decent time, so I thought, by 7am. Just as I was putting the last things in the pack a trail runner was already passing by. 

The blue skies didn't last too long and by mid morning I was walking in a very light misty shower. Not enough to bother with the rain jacket but enough to make things damp.

A few people trickled north as I made my way south. Passed the Helena shelter turn off, which was the plan for smoko but decided to go a bit further. Made it another 2km before finding a great viewpoint from a granite slab. I even had the sun poke its head out for me. 

The next stretch to Waalegh shelter had some pretty steep ups and downs, really good thigh workout. The shelter itself had a really good view and was a great place for lunch. It is a little exposed at the top of the hill though and with today's winds I cooled down very quickly, reaching for the jumper after just a few min.

The remaining 9km to my final stop fell pretty easy. Spotting 2 Emu getting about on the way and loads of Sundew (carnivorous plants) lining the side of the track.  5 people at camp tonight, 4 in the shelter and 1 that set up her tent. Might be a loud night...

Day 3
Fairly early pack again and on trail by 715. Its another "Tripple Hut" day today (skipping two camps) but mostly because there is a fire diversion that has locked out 2 huts... there is a Temporary about mid way I hope to reach for lunch. 

The diversion started about 5km from camp. Some of the trail there was pretty over grown, so despite it not raining today I was still wet. At the diversion I realised I had a brain fart at camp and left without my spare socks!!

I made the mistake of having them on an existing line (rather than my own cord) which broke routine... I only have two pairs so I set my pack behind a tree and started to double back. It was actually quite easy going without the weight. Luckily I only had to go about 1 km before I spotted Terry and he immediately called out "I've got them."

After many a thank you I set back off and picked up my pack on the way. What's an extra 2k... ? The detour is on a decent graded but gravel filled forestry road. Which my current shoes have a habit of collecting rocks on (almost as enthusiastically as my Nephews and Nieces) so that wasn't fun. The next stretch started with about 6km of incline. Not steep, but constant. Up. For what felt like Forever. I didn't see any cars/4wd on the stretch but as I neared the end of the detour a school bus whizzed pass... and then pulled up about 500m in front of me. I watched as 20+ students and 3 teachers spill out of the bus door. I don't think I did an amazing job of hiding my smile when they told me they were heading north, the opposite direction to me...

Past the bus there was more trail and a few less used bush tracks before reaching the temporary camp for lunch. This was followed by a stint on a power line easement, which wasn't too bad, before getting to the Brookton Highway and finding myself back on proper trail. Just past the highway was a great granite slate with crystal clear water at its base. Then I was in wetlands for a while with the trail just barely keeping me dry. 

At the shelter there was already a crowd of 4, then me plus three others from the same shelter last night making it 8. Talk over dinner was about the brand new (unbeknownst to everyone but the NOBO that just came through) fire detour. Adding 8km for tomorrow. I had planned for a double hut which is 30... 38 is a touch more than I would enjoy... so it might be my first hut to hut day at 24km. Lucky I generally pack a spare day of food...

Day 4
Got away at a decent time, 3rd to leave the hut. It was pretty scenic 7km down to Canning Creek and the start of the new diversion. Past that more gravelly forestry roads and more stones collected by the show. Ks dropped pretty fast though and I hit 11km just before 10 and took a rest. 

Short while later I was on pine forest roads which were much softer. However it seems to be as popular as Glass House for 4wding so there were many bog holes. Thick scrub to the sides and the first few I was able to etch around but eventually had to plough straight through knee deep water. Solid base at least but wet shoes. 

Made 18 km for lunch where Jim caught up and joined me. Not long after I set off from lunch I saw a beautiful Tiger Snake. He didn't appreciate me trying to take a picture, but I got one as he slithered off. 

Made it the 24km to the next hut by 2pm and had to decide if it was worth pushing on. Decision was made when I checked a hot spot from yesterday and a blister had formed. I don't like hard gravelly roads...  popped and drained as it was pretty full of fluid. I'll let it dry tonight and then cover in the morning.

After the symphony of snores last night the main offender offered around ear plugs tonight. Past experience dictated that I already had mine close at hand but others took the offer. After long days I find it little trouble to fall and stay asleep. Only stirring for the midnight pee break.

Day 5
Pathfinder (who has been at the shelter last 3 nights) woke up with a cold and was going to hike to the nearest road to be picked up by a friend. Over breakfast she thanked me for answering her many questions about Thru's the last few days. Including some gems like yes, you should wash your socks and rotate every day! Not use the same crusty ones 4 days in a row... She described me as like the Wise Old Owl in a story. I wasn't too keen on the 'old' connotation but 'The Old Owl' seemed like a fitting trail name for the Bibb.

The track didn't mess about today, a few hundred meters before I was heading straight up a mountain. Then straight back down the other side. Then when I was down it was just a few hundred more for the next hill... 

I still made it to the Mt Cooke shelter in good time arriving before 1030am. I knew I was close because I could hear the chatter of a large tourist group. Luckily they were just about ready to set off.  I needed water and most of the Mt Cooke climb was still ahead of me.

Looks to be a popular spot for day hikers as another few groups passed as I rested. After about 45min I got going again and just as I reached the summit the large tourist group were all pulling out their lunches. I took a quick snap but decided to push on.

The way down from Cooke was pretty sparse on markers but I eventually found my way which linked up to a power line easement. Another fire detour, adding just 1km. Unfortunately this one has you on the side of the Albany Highway for about 2km. Not my idea of a good time. 

The temporary Nerang camp site (Primary Shelter was just 600m inside the closed zone...) left a bit to be desired. But I found a flat spot, and there was water and a porta-loo, so I guess its not too bad. 3 others enjoyed the site with me. We also saw a couple of Black Cockatoos having some adult fun time. (I later found out that quite a few hikers snuck into the Shelter, despite the closure.....)

Day 6
Was a bit hotter in the tent than the shelters so I sweated a bit which caused inner condensation. No where real comfortable for breakfast here so I packed up and ate a muesli bar as I was moving.

After a while I started to feel a pain in my right foot. Not just general soreness but actual pain. It slowed me down and I was seriously considering if I could make the 33km today. I finally reached down to discover not one but two rocks lodged in my shoe... There have been a few short gravelly trail stints already today.  

Other than that the first stretch was good trail with a very easy gradient so I still got to Gringer Creek hut fairly early and enjoyed a long break. Looks like I'm developing another blister, same place other foot. So I took the time to put some tape on it.

Next stretch started out flat too but quickly turned into hills. Not huge hills compared to some but 200m climbs feel pretty big after already walking 21km... One mountain looked pretty similar to Bald Rock. The last push up another similar sized hill gave me false hope as I rounded a peak, which wasn't the peak.

Shelter was pretty busy tonight, already 6 in it but plenty of room in the middle. As I set up one decided it was to crowded for them and opted to set up their tent. Which left plenty of room for Collin, who was at the temporary site last night and was very happy to see a spot vacant just for him moments after he arrived.

Day 7
In the morning Collin discovered his food bag had been chewed into. It was in his pack, which was resting on the floor. Luckily the pack itself was untouched. It only got a tiny nibble out of his 2min noodles so not too bad. I was on the fence about bringing my mouse hang kit but I guess that justifies it. 

Just as I was about to step foot outside the shelter it started raining... fairly decent shower as I ascended the second peak of the white horse hill. More granite slabs but an easy climb. From there it was a steep down for a little but then mostly flat until it was time to climb Mt Wells.

Made it to the top for lunch, the shelter here is a bit different as its a converted fire watch hut. The tower is still here and you can get up to a platform midway for a decent view. Few more showers on and off with blue skies. Sun mostly hidden.

Very easy grade down from the top, though I wouldn't consider it easy going up... long decent 350 ish meters over 3km. Very constant. Plenty of creeping white wildflowers. I found a patch of sun to try dry off from the morning, the clouds found me shortly after... The socks did NOT have a chance to dry, but at least the feet mostly did. It wasn't long to the shelter after that for a fire then a good sleep. I don't think my feet are currently conditioned for back to back to back 30+ km days... 

Day 8
Fairly easy start to the day. Only 20.7 km to town. Feet are still a bit sore from the last few days so I took it slow. After about 9km you link up with an old rail line, what I imagined the BVRT would actually bike. Walking along the still intact rail line. Loads more wild flowers today as well.

It diverted of the rail but ran parallel for the rest of the way. They occasionally run a tourist train out to an old station so I guess they have to keep hikers off it. The trail twisted and turned up the bank with overgrown trees still damp from the mist dropping water on me. Quite a few times I considered just ducking back over to the train line..

As I walked into town the trail walks you right past the visitor centre and cafe. A great place to stop for lunch I thought. After finishing up there I went to the Caravan Park to grab a bed for the night and take care of some chores.

Just as I started laundry, sitting there in my laundry kilt as everything else was in the wash, a school group turned up to setup in the group site adjacent. They were riding part of the the Munda Biddi, a bike trail that runs fairly parallel to the Bibbulmun. It did make for a long wait for the shower but most of the kids were good. They did 45km today, so I guess that saps a bit of energy...  

After chores I headed into town. I ended up buying a pair of thongs as my wet shoes at the shelter were becoming annoying. Then it was off to the pub for arvo/dinner, I was surprised that for a hiker/mountain bike town I was the only one there late afternoon. 5 other hikers eventually made their way in and we shared a table for dinner. HUGE portions for every meal. 

We didn't last too long out though before it was past out bedtime and we hiker hobbled the 500m back to the caravan park for an early night.  Rooms are... modest. But dry and come with a towel. Walls are very thin. If you're the person in #1 that was watching TV on your phone; Get some headphones.

Day 9

Slept in until about 8am. Lucy had bought bacon and eggs for breakfast, brilliant idea I'll steal for lunch today. I had to shuffle rooms for tonight, a whole 6 meters from 2 to 4. Solo for now but I've let reception know that if another hiker shows they can have the top bunk. Terry, who I shared a few huts with, is having trouble with his knee and is going to hop off trail so offered me some left over gas/food as he packed away his gear. 

I went into town to grab supplies for the trail. First stop though, The Blue Wren Cafe for breakfast. Next over to the visitor info centre which has a good variety of hiking meals, if a little marked up... they have a small selection of other misc gear soap/sunscreen etc. They also have a bike workshop under the same roof with some other gear (like dry bags etc) if you're in need. IGA is great for everything else you'd need. With bottleshop attached.

The plan is for a very lazy afternoon with the feet up as much as possible. Repacking the resupply the only task. The next section to Collie is ~130km and should take 6 days at a casual pace.